Drapers
1 July 2011
View all stories from this issue.
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‘Queen of Shops’ not fronting Independents’ Day initiative
Indies across the country are gearing up for Independents’ Day on Monday, despite news that retail guru Mary Portas will not be involved in the initiative. -
A decade of showing how it’s done
It’s hard to believe it’s almost 10 years to the day that, having just joined the Drapers team, I was escorted to Cologne by the then editor Eric Musgrave and his trademark specs for my first fashion trade show experience. -
A week of weddings: Kate Moss in Galliano IMAGE GALLERY
The last seven days have witnessed some seriously high-profile celebrity weddings led of course by Kate Moss’ nuptials, during which she wore a stunning veil and a slightly surprising ethereal gown by John Galliano. The groom Jamie Hince opted for a Yves Saint Laurent 3db pale blue suit. -
Alexander McQueen
Menswear spring 12 -
Aquascutum to open stores in Milan and Rome
Luxury British fashion brand Aquascutum has pushed the button on rapid expansion plans and is set to open its first stand-alone stores overseas in the next year. -
Asda Income Tracker: Weekly spending power shows largest decline on record
Consumers suffered a £14 a week fall in family spending power in May compared to the previous year – the largest decline on record. -
Autumn 02
The confidence of the team behind the new concept was displayed in its marketing for the second edition. -
Autumn 03
Berlin is 260 miles east of Cologne and had not been a fashion centre since before the Second World War. -
Autumn 04
The third B&B in Berlin was the clincher. An astonishing 13,000 people turned up on the first day and some had to queue for two hours to gain admittance. -
Autumn 05
For its eighth edition, B&B decided to get selective and stress that it was for the “inner circle” of the branded sector. -
Autumn 06
The amethyst on the poster represented the city of Barcelona and its flair. -
Autumn 07
To no one’s surprise, B&B announced in October 2006 that its Berlin edition scheduled for January would be cancelled due to lack of interest from exhibitors -
Autumn 08
More Areas, Brand Quality, Best Service, the slogan of the ad campaign alluded to the significant expansion into new areas of the Fira. -
Autumn 09
In July 2008, B&B co-founder Karl-Heinz Müller relaunched 14 oz, his own retail store for premium jeanswear and related brands. -
Autumn 10
In July the mercury had hit 30°C (86°F) in Berlin, but how would the show cope with a Berlin winter, especially the Denim Base area and the stands on the airfield apron, which were open to the elements? -
Autumn 11
Although the present Tempelhof building was built between 1936 and 1941, the airport had been established in the mid-1920s. -
Avril Lavigne's Abbey Dawn hires sales boss
Jackson Distribution, the company that sells streetwear brand Iron First, has appointed Alistair Barr as UK sales manager of Abbey Dawn, the brand launched by singer Avril Lavigne. -
Belstaff poaches Burberry's Martin Cooper
Belstaff, the outerwear brand which was acquired by Swiss luxury goods group Labelux earlier this month, has poached Burberry’s Martin Cooper for the role of chief creative officer. -
Best of the rest
Menswear spring 12 -
Bread & Butter Interview: Karl-Heinz Müller
It took a retailer to make Bread & Butter a phenomenal and market-leading success. Eric Musgrave finds that Karl-Heinz Müller is as confident as ever as he prepares to blow out the candles on the event’s 10th anniversary cake. -
Burberry Prorsum
Menswear spring 12 -
Centre for Diversity raises shape issues
Fashion diversity initiative All Walks Beyond the Catwalk has launched a Centre for Diversity aimed at encouraging designers to produce clothing for a broader range of body shapes. -
CK Calvin Klein, Manchester
Calvin Klein’s bridge collection is all about understated cool, and its first UK standalone store does this well. But it runs the risk of relative anonymity -
Creative industry can lead the UK’s recovery
Despite the turbulence in the UK high street, there are some reasons to be cheerful as the new selling season begins. -
Dolce & Gabbana
Menswear spring 12 -
Donna Ida
The queen of jeans and indie owner tells Marie Davies why size and age discrimination have no place in her boutiques. -
Drapers launches indie web directory
Drapers has launched the UK’s first searchable online directory of UK fashion indies. -
Duke Street pulls out of Bonmarche sale talks
Private equity firm Duke Street has abandoned interest in acquiring the Bonmarche business from value fashion group Peacocks. -
Edinburgh Woollen Mill seals Jane Norman buyout
Edinburgh Woollen Mill, best known for knitwear aimed at over 45-year-olds, has acquired the Jane Norman name, 33 standalone stores and the stock from all of its 94 stores, UK concessions and some overseas outlets in a surprise pre-pack administration deal. -
Fashion sales rise at John Lewis as Clearance starts
Fashion sales at department store John Lewis soared 20.1% including VAT, in the week to June 25, with the start of its Clearance sale. -
Fashshot TV The Dress Factor
Drapers’ Marie Davies sits on the panel for the latest Fashshot TV episiode of The Dress Factor. -
Footfall rose 0.2% in June
Shopper numbers rose ahead of last year for the first time since January last month with a 0.2% rise in footfall compared to June 2010, according the Experian Retail Footfall Index. -
Forever 21 signs blogger Bip Ling as its new face as it gears up for Oxford Street opening
US fashion giant Forever 21 has signed fashion blogger Bip Ling as the new face of its brand as it prepares to open its Oxford Street flagship. -
Forever 21 to open new flagship at Lakeside
US fashion giant Forever 21 is to open a store at Lakeside, Essex. -
Gap June sales up 5%
Sales at US-based casualwear giant Gap increased 5% last month compared to June the previous year, according to monthly sales figures released today. -
Gap to open Athleta standalone stores
US casualwear giant Gap is to open between eight and 10 Athleta stores in the US following the decision to grow the mail-order business by bricks and mortar stores as well as online sales. -
Giorgio Armani
Menswear spring 12 -
Grazia launches Fash Factor
Weekly magazine Grazia has launched an X-Factor style talent search for the next big name in fashion design and is holding open auditions next week. -
Gucci
Menswear spring 12 -
Guess to accelerate kidswear in Europe
US denim brand and retailer Guess has said it is to speed up expansion plans for its kidswear range in Europe and expects to have 50 dedicated kidswear stores in Europe within two years. -
H&M signs Donatella Versace as guest designer
Italian designer Donatella Versace will be the next guest designer for Swedish fast-fashion chain H&M. -
Hobbs secures £46.5m of funding to accelerate expansion
Mainstream womenswear retailer Hobbs has secured £46.5m of funding to accelerate its brand development and retail expansion plans. -
How was it for you?
Did you take part in Skillsmart Retail’s Independents’ Day yesterday? Then we want to hear from you. -
Indies come out fighting for spring 12
This week has been one of those bad news weeks which our industry would rather forget. -
Indies slash forward-order budgets on eve of B&B
Exclusive poll reveals retailers’ cautious mood, although seeking out new brands is still key for many -
Jack Wills eyes further US expansion
Young fashion chain Jack Wills is to pursue further expansion into the US after sales at the chains first three US stores proved strong. -
Jacques Vert profits rise
Mainstream womenswear retail group Jacques Vert has reported a 2.6% rise in sales and a 3.1% rise in pre-tax profits for the 53 weeks ended April 30, 2011 despite a “difficult trading environment”. Margins were eroded slightly. -
John Galliano to stand trial in Paris today
Designer John Galliano is to stand trial in Paris today on charges of public insult for allegedly using racist and anti-Semitic slurs at a Paris cafe in two separate incidents one in February this year and one in October last year. -
John Lewis ramps up men’s formalwear
John Lewis will increase its own-label men’s formalwear offer from September with the launch of three suiting sub-brands. -
Kate Moss to wear Galliano bridal gown
It has been confirmed that supermodel Kate Moss will wear a John Galliano dress when she weds rock star Jamie Hince today (July 1). -
Kate Spade opens European flagship in London
US womenswear label Kate Spade is to open its first European flagship store in Chelsea, London. -
Loafing around
It’s not all about buying and selling at Bread & Butter - it’s also very important to build business relationships. It’s not partying - it’s networking! -
Mackintosh replaces managing director
Daniel Dunko, managing director of heritage rainwear brand Mackintosh, is to step down later this month after 28 years. -
Macy’s sells to 91 countries via web
US department store group Macy’s has opened up its Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s websites to UK and international shoppers. -
Merc appoints UK chief to drive sales
Young fashion brand Merc has appointed Andy Tompsett as the head of its UK business with a brief to grow sales of the brand in the UK. -
Milan Menswear
Retro rock looks swaggered down the catwalks as classic tailoring was reworked. -
Mohamed al-Fayed snaps up luxury e-tailer Cocosa
Former Harrods owner Mohamed al-Fayed has made a return to retail by acquiring online retailer Cocosa. -
Mulberry founder to open shopping village
Roger Saul the founder of Mulberry is to open a designer shopping village alongside the luxury brand’s Somerset-based factory later this month. -
N Brown signs Flintoff as new face of Jacamo
Former cricket ace Andrew ‘Freddie’ Flintoff has signed up to be the new face of N Brown menswear brand Jacamo, which is aimed at big and tall men aged between 30 and 45. -
Next offloads customer service business Ventura
Next has sold its third-party customer service business Ventura to support services company Capita for £65m. -
Nike and Selfridges team up to launch NSM autumn collection
Nike is launching the autumn 11 collection for its NSW lifestyle collection exclusively in Selfridges. -
Off The Record, July 1 2011
Drapers gets the lowdown on the latest gossip and reports back from the hottest parties and events -
Overseas investment fuels Pentland sales
Pentland Group, the company behind brands including Speedo and Berghaus, saw sales climb 14.5% in 2010, thanks to continued investment in emerging markets. -
Paris Couture: Christian Dior
As Christian Dior showcased its first couture collection in Paris yesterday without the disgraced John Galliano at the helm, many were curious to see how the French fashion house would cope without its greatest showman. -
Portas says high street may no longer be "heartbeat of the town"
Mary Portas has warned that she is not yet convinced Britain’s high streets have a future - a surprising statement from the woman who has been hired by David Cameron to come up with a plan to rescue the fortunes of the country’s shopping streets - but added that she believes community centres and workplaces could help fix the retail industry’s challenges. -
Prada
Menswear spring 12 -
Rising cotton prices are here to stay, experts warn
Higher cotton prices look set to become a permanent feature for the fashion sector long term and will change the way retailers manage their supply chain, according to analysis from consultancy Kurt Salmon. -
Rocket Dog to launch range of bags for spring 12
Rocket Dog, the US-based women’s footwear brand, has signed a three-year licensing deal with Luton-based DSL Licensing to produce a collection of Rocket Dog accessories for European markets from spring 12. -
Sales improve at N Brown
Home shopping group N Brown has reported an improving sales trend but has been forced to sacrifice some margin to persuade shoppers to spend. -
Schuh sold to US-based Genesco for £125m
Footwear retailer Schuh has been acquired by US-based retail group Genesco for a £125m sum. -
Schuh to accelerate UK store openings under new owner
Footwear retailer Schuh will ramp up its openings and almost double its store portfolio after it was sold to US retail group Genesco for £125m last week. -
Select set to open 30 new stores
Young fashion chain Select is set to bolster its store portfolio with 30 store openings this year. -
Sergio Rossi buys out its franchisee partner in China
Sergio Rossi, the Italian luxury footwear and accessories brand, has announced that it will buy out five boutiques from its franchisee business in China in September 2011, including Beijing, Shanghai, Ningbo and Shenzhen. -
Sharp practice from Lanvin in Paris
Lanvin wowed the crowds on the final day of Paris Men’s Fashion Week with a grown-up collection of super-masculine, sharply tailored double-breasted suits. -
Shop price inflation increases to 2.9% in June
Shop price inflation increased to 2.9% in June, up from 2.3% in May according to figures from The British Retail Consortium-Nielsen Shop Price Index. -
Sports Direct takes control of USC and Cruise
Mike Ashley’s Sports Direct has bought a majority stake in Sir Tom Hunter’s branded fashion business USC and the luxury retailer Cruise Clothing as part of plans to build a premiu lifestyle division. -
Spring 02
TITLE BREAD & BUTTER Cologne offshow for selected brandsDATE July 13-15, 2001EXHIBITORS 50VISITORS 5,000Karl-Heinz Müller was a keen-eyed jeanswear professional long before he decided the casualwear sector needed a showcase far more stimulating than Inter-Jeans, the long-standing fair in Cologne. Running alongside mainstream menswear show Herren-Mode-Woche, I -
Spring 03
After only two seasons, B&B had rocked the trade show establishment in Germany and beyond. -
Spring 04
The inaugural Berlin event dealt a knockout blow to other international competitors. -
Spring 05
For the July 2004 edition, B&B Berlin made its biggest-ever leap, adding 200 more exhibitors to head towards 600 in total. -
Spring 06
A rising sun emblem saluted the twin approach that saw the new edition in Barcelona followed two weeks later by a similar, but smaller, gathering in Berlin. -
Spring 07
At the January 2006 shows, a squad of photographers took pictures of hundreds of visitors and exhibitors. -
Spring 08
The marketing campaign was all about how easy it was to get to Barcelona. -
Spring 09
The seventh Bread & Butter Barcelona saw a bit of spring cleaning by the organisers. -
Spring 10
The relocation to the amazing Tempelhof airport in south-central Berlin was a triumph. -
Spring 11
The World Cup in South Africa was a distraction to proceedings in Berlin, so the organisers provided huge screens to show the games. -
Superga opens first UK standalone in Covent Garden
Italian plimsoll brand Superga opened its first UK standalone store on Neal Street in London’s Covent Garden yesterday, which aims to give UK consumers a complete “brand flavour”. -
SuperGroup seeks to rally investor support
SuperGroup, the young fashion business, has met with analysts to allay investor concerns that its Superdry brand has become overexposed. -
Tap into the fans’ influence
Klout scores users’ activity on social network sites, and now brands can use the data to reach a new audience -
Tom Chapman
Multichannel with a personalised approach is the name of the game for Matches founder Tom Chapman, as the designer mini-chain aims to double its online business in two years -
Trio turn on the style for Hunter
Three leading names from the fashion world will front the first-ever ad campaign for Wellington boot brand Hunter. -
US cotton harvest under threat
An extreme drought in parts of Southern parts of the US is threatening to wipe out of half this year’s US cotton crop, despite farmers devoting more space to the crop. -
Versace
Menswear spring 12 -
Versace suspends Facebook page
Italian fashion house Versace has been forced to de-activate its Facebook wall after it was bombarded with messages by from activists protesting against the controversial sandblasting technique, it has been claimed. -
Vivienne Westwood
Menswear spring 12 -
www.bouxavenue.com
Launched by retail entrepreneur Theo Paphitis, lingerie retailer Boux Avenue has had a strong online focus from day one. -
Zara Phillips to marry in Stewart Parvin gown
The Queen’s granddaughter Zara Phillips will marry her fiance, England rugby start Mike Tindall, in a wedding gown created by favourite Royal couturier Stewart Parvin.
