Drapers
31 October 2009
View all stories from this issue.
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All Saints confirms House of Fraser departure
All Saints has terminated its concession agreement with House of Fraser to protect its full-price standalone operation. -
All Saints, Trafford Centre
Grown-up rock looks in a super-hip space. Helpful staff compensate for the minor faults. -
Ann Deal
Lucie Goulet talks to the founder of lingerie add-ons brand Fashion Forms about solving women’s bra problems. -
Ann Harvey, Oxford Street, London
A revamp of its plus-size womenswear business Ann Harvey’s flagship store is the first step in owner Alexon’s bid to turn around its flagging fortunes. -
Aspecto beats slump as sales soar by 17%
Young fashion independent Aspecto has reported a 17% rise in like-for-like sales and a robust start to the autumn season. -
Ba&sh
Contemporary womenswear brand Ba&sh was created six years ago by childhood friends Barbara Boccara and Sharon Krief and has built a reputation for softly sophisticated designs. -
Barbour vows to diversify its offer
Barbour managing director Steve Buck has vowed that the heritage brand’s autumn 10 collection will feature a range of new fabrics and styles to ensure it diversifies, following a surge in popularity. -
Ben Sherman
Ben Sherman began producing his iconic shirts from a small factory in Brighton back in 1963, to the soundtrack of The Beatles, The Kinks and The Rollin Stones. -
Bench
In 1989, the Bench brand emerged from an underground BMX and skateboarding scene in Manchester and quickly established itself as an urban fashion leader. -
Bernard goes it alone with website
Premium indie Bernard of Esher in Surrey has bucked the downturn by increasing profits after launching a transactional website in collaboration with Farfetch.com, a company that provides an online ecommerce portal for 32 premium indies, including London’s Start and Maria Luisa in Paris. -
Best of British Brands - Lingerie & Accessories
If there were a lingerie equivalent to that famous British mark of resilience – the stiff upper lip – Rigby & Peller would be it. -
Best of British Brands - Womenswear
From the trench coat to the tweed jacket, British fashion history is peppered with iconic pieces that are constantly tweaked and reinvented for a new audience. -
Best of British Brands - Young Fashion
Since the invention of the teenager in the 1950s, Britain has led the field in producing clothes that appeal to the youth market. From mods to rockers and punks, each tribe has been defined as much by their music taste as their style of dressing. -
Better rents prompt store move for Ferguson Nash
Menswear indie Ferguson Nash has taken advantage of favourable rents to move into a store three times the size of its previous site. -
BFC funds international expansion for British designers
The British Fashion Council (BFC) has launched a fund to aid British design companies to become global brands. -
Bhs, Trafford Centre
Mundane classics at a price point designed to seduce mature spendthrifts. -
Blacks looks to exit 89 stores with CVA proposal
Blacks Leisure has unveiled details of a proposed company voluntary arrangement (CVA) as part the group’s restructuring. -
Blue Inc, Arndale Centre
Some inspired designs nestle among the lads’ wear. The shop is jumbled but staff are friendly. -
Boudoir details
Spring 10 -
Brian Reyes joins David Weston roster
David Weston Represents, the London agency that counts Alessandro Dell’Acqua and Creative Recreation among its brands, has added US designer womenswear label Brian Reyes to its roster for autumn 10. -
British birthdays
The brands, retailers, organisations and events celebrating milestone anniversaries in 2009. -
Burberry launches interactive ad campaign
Luxury British heritage brand Burberry has developed an interactive digital advertising campaign for autumn 10 that allows users to control the cast and products in each shot. -
Burton, Arndale Centre
A much-improved casual offer sees Burton reposition for a younger, trendier shopper. -
Celebrating UK fashion
When Katharine Hamnett met Margaret Thatcher at 10 Downing Street in 1984 wearing one of her infamous slogan T-shirts “58% don’t want pershing” she created one of the most powerful images in the history of British Fashion. -
Celebs front Xmas Shop Direct ads
Shop Direct Group will launch a Christmas TV ad campaign for its Very brand on Sunday featuring celebrities Fearne Cotton and Holly Willoughby, as part of an £18m group-wide marketing spend. -
Chambray
Spring 10 -
Consumer confidence at 18-month high
Consumer confidence is at its highest level for 18 months, despite people remaining anxious about the prospect of unemployment. -
Consumer confidence increases in October
Shopper confidence rose again this month when sentiment hit its highest level since January 2008. -
Debenhams' Woodhouse makes £7.2m in share sale
Debenhams finance director Chris Woodhouse has sold 8.6 million shares in the department store group for £7.2m. -
Debenhams, Trafford Centre
A smorgasbord of styles spans youthful basics to performance outerwear and affordable suits. -
Deloitte forecasts flat sales at Christmas
Retail spend this Christmas will be flat compared to last year, but sales will fall 1.5% in 2010, a report from Deloitte reported today. -
Drapers celebrates Great British Fashion
The great and the good of British fashion gathered last night to celebrate the British fashion industry and the unveiling of Drapers’ Great British Fashion special supplement. -
Drapers Great British Fashion party
Drapers celebrated Great British Fashion with an event attended by the leading lights of the British fashion industry. -
Draw up a battle plan for the export market
If you’re serious about developing your brand, exporting is easily this season’s hottest move. With sterling in its current weak state, there are plenty of opportunities for fashion brands to grow their business in other markets such as Europe or the US. But without some clear guidelines, it can be a minefield. -
Dump The Duties: Submission deadline nears
There is only one day left for footwear suppliers and retailers to lobby their local MEP’s on proposals to extend anti-dumping duties on Asian leather footwear. -
Emreco
Since 1926 we have ensured that Emreco is synonomous with design, quality and fit, offering the wearer an opportunity to feel relaxed and feminine. -
Escada poised to announce buyer
Escada is likely to announce a buyer for the German mainstream womenswear brand by November 5, according to a source close to the proceedings. -
Escada sells Primera brands
Escada, the German womenswear brand, has sold its Primera division to German private equity firm Endurance Capital. -
EU pushes back footwear vote
The European Commission has delayed the vote by EU member states on whether to extend anti-dumping duties on leather footwear from China and Vietnam to give consideration to interested parties’ comments. -
Exhibition marks Hardy Amies’ century
To coincide with Hardy Amies’ 100th birthday, the tailoring label will open the doors to its archive at its headquarters at 14 Savile Row in London. -
Fenchurch
Think back to 1999. It was the dawning of a new era, a new millennium and the positive vibe was addictive. -
Footwear anti-dumping extension to cost €1bn
The European Commission’s proposal to extend anti-dumping duties on leather footwear from China and Vietnam would cost EU businesses and consumers in excess of €1bn (£90m) according to the European Footwear Alliance (EFA). -
French Connection, Exchange Street
An improved offer in a slick, well-merchandised store. Shame about the service. -
Gap sales beat expectations
Gap sales improved in October up 5% on last year to $1.14bn (£70m). -
Gap, St Ann Street
Milking the trend for Americana and worker-led looks, Gap looks bang on trend right now. -
H&M, Trafford Centre
Directional, affordable and packed with try-me-on product, this is an irresistible store. -
Hugo Boss European sales fall 13%
Total European sales at Hugo Boss fell 13% to €852m (£766m) over the first nine months of 2009 as the brand and retailer was hit by a turbulent northern European and Spanish trading climate. -
Ice cream colours
Spring 10 -
Indies upbeat on sales but wary of expansion
Independent retailers are growing in confidence as sales pick up and they negotiate better deals with suppliers, yet expansion and recruitment plans are still being put on hold, according to new figures from the Forum of Private Business (FPB). -
It’s the little things that make a big difference
As I wrap up processing the spring 10 orders, it’s now time to get out of the office and visit as many of my customers as I can before I’m allowed to take my autumn holiday. -
Jack & Jones, Arndale Centre
A spread of prices but generally reasonable value for money. -
Jigsaw-online.com
Launched a year ago, contemporary womenswear chain Jigsaw’s website has a clean design, which is led by lifestyle imagery. -
John Lewis fashion sales up 11%
Fashion sales at department store retailer John Lewis jumped 11% year-on-year over the week to October 24 as new season merchandise began to feed through. -
Jones Bootmaker rolls out new-look shopfit
Footwear retailer Jones Bootmaker has unveiled a new shopfit as part of plans to open 15 new stores over the next two years. -
Joseph Wan
Having turned around department store Harvey Nichols once before, a seismic shift in the luxury landscape means its chief executive is looking to repeat the trick. -
Karen Millen appoints joint managing directors
Karen Millen has appointed Gemma Metheringham and Steve Price joint managing directors. -
Key credit insurer Atradius increases cover
Atradius, one of the leading trade credit insurance firms, is to increase cover to UK companies, bringing relief to hard-pressed businesses. -
Kidswear most resilient sector in recession
Kidswear has been the most resilient clothing sector during the recession, according to a report from market analyst Verdict. -
London's West End in Christmas lights switch-on
50,000 Londoners gathered last night to see the biggest-ever co-ordinated Christmas lights switch-on across the capital’s most famous high streets. -
Lulu Guinness signs investor to fund Asian expansion
Lulu Guinness has sold a 15% stake in the luxury handbags and accessories label to Hong Kong-based First Eastern Investment Group to further expansion in Asia. -
M&S posts flat first-half profits
Marks & Spencer reported a “good start” to its third quarter but is “cautious” about Christmas prospects after posting flat interim profits. -
M&S repeats Penny Bazaar promotion for Christmas
Marks & Spencer is to open in-store penny bazaars later this month selling Christmas stocking-fillers for 1p. -
Made Man
Made Man in Cockfosters in north London. -
Marks & Spencer, Market Street
Bursting with clever classics and quality basics but distinctly lacking in excitement. -
Menswear Premium indicator, October 31, 2009
Access Drapers’ unique source of sales information from premium retailers, revealing the best-selling brands, the hottest products and the latest issues to affect menswear by clicking on the PDF. -
More postal strikes threaten online spend
Consumers are set to shy away from shopping online and by mail order in the crucial festive period if the postal strikes continue. -
Natural search - fashion websites
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Natural search: generic fashion terms
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Natural search: generic product keywords
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Natural search: menswear keywords
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Natural search: womenswear keywords
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New look, Arndale Centre
This buzzing store has a few product quality issues but the positives outweigh them. -
New sportswear
Spring 10 -
Next sales ahead of expectations
Next reported sales ahead of expectations in its third quarter to October 31, with like-for-like sales down 1.3%. -
Next, Trafford Centre
An impressive range of trend-led styles in an exciting store. Next continues to improve. -
Nude shades
Spring 10 -
Och-Ziff snaps up Debenhams stake
Och-Ziff, the American hedge fund which backs fast-fashion chain Peacocks, has emerged as the largest shareholder in Debenhams with an 11 % stake in the department store. -
Off the record, October 31, 2009
The inside track on the parties and gossip for the week. -
Oversized ruffles
Spring 10 -
Oxford Circus diagonal crossing opens
A new diagonal pedestrian crossing on London’s Oxford Circus is to be unveiled this morning. -
Paid & Natural search - fashion websites
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Paid search - fashion websites
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Pan Philippou to head up Ben Sherman
Pan Philippou, the former chief executive of World Design & Trade (WDT), will become chief executive of Ben Sherman in January when Miles Gray retires. -
Panto time? Oh yes it is at Selfridges
Selfridges unveiled its iconic Christmas windows this week at its London Oxford Street store. -
Peacocks, Arndale Centre
Versions of key styles at light-on-the-wallet prices in a light-on-the-imagination store. -
Phil Goodfellow
Phil Goodfellow co-owner of menswear indie Northern Threads in South Shields, Tyne & Wear. -
Polka dots
Spring 10 -
Polo Ralph Lauren in Q2 profit climb
Profits at Polo Ralph Lauren were boosted over the first six-months of the year, helped by lower operating expenses and increased market share. -
Portas: Primark is destroying UK indies
Retail guru Mary Portas has launched a dramatic assault on Primark and the value sector, claiming it has “bastardised” good taste and “annihilated” indie retailing. -
Primark like-for-likes up 7%
Primark, the value fashion giant, revealed sales soared 20% in the year to September 12 with like-for-like growth of 7%. -
Primark, Market Street
Lots of super-cheap versions of key seasonal pieces but this is a tough store to shop. -
Reiss, New Cathedral Street
Well-considered classics in a sophisticated environment with attentive service. -
Retail Trust's Search For A Star hits the road
Retail Trust’s Search For A Star initiative has kicked off with two live auditions at Xscape Milton Keynes and Brighton Marina. -
River island, Trafford Centre
The storefit still looks exciting, and progressive product means fewer dull basics. -
Rolling with the turn of the fashion wheel
The credit crunch has been a positive catalyst for change at Austique, my womenswear boutique in Chelsea, west London. -
Sheer fabrics
Spring 10 -
Shhhhhhhh!
Which retailer is concerned that its latest celebrity signing may harm its brand image if she continues with her wild party-loving ways? -
Shop price inflation at zero
Overall shop price inflation stood at zero last month after two consecutive months of deflation. -
Slaters, Brown Street
Manchester’s biggest menswear offer has a mature focus but is a touch dull. -
Speaking up for indies’ interests
As part of Leeds Shopping Week, a panel including Mary Portas, Republic boss Tim Whitworth and Land Securities’ Gerald Jennings debated how fashion indies can overcome the many challenges they face. -
Step into a virtual London
An online version of London’s West End has the potential to create a sizeable community of shoppers. -
Stitch show to discuss concept
UK menswear trade show Stitch has issued an open invitation to brands and buyers to attend a presentation about its concept next week. -
Suits You, Trafford Centre
Good commercial suit options at reasonable prices but a bit more variety would lift the store. -
Sven Ley confirms Escada bid
Sven Ley, the son of Escada founder Wolfgang Ley, has confirmed that he has bid for the German luxury fashion house with backing from Borletti, following speculation last week. -
Ted Baker, New Cathedral Street
Sub-brands for everyone in an inspirational retail environment. -
The mini dress
Spring 10 -
The weekend newspaper round up: October 31 to November 1 2009
A round up of the best fashion business stories from the weekend’s newspapers… -
TM Lewin EBITDA climbs
Shirt specialist TM Lewin reported a sales increase of 11% in its first half to August 29 while EBITDA climbed 15% over the period. -
Topman, Arndale Centre
Proof that you can be directional yet accessible, Topman delivers key looks in a stylish store -
Topshop rents out stars’ dresses for party season
Topshop has launched a raft of innovative marketing initiatives ahead of Christmas including a dress hire service and special pre-office party dressing rooms. -
UK fashion’s power is sum of its parts
Is the rise of “Primarni” and the value sector really to blame for the state of the independent market? According to retail guru Mary Portas, the explosion of cheap fast-fashion multiples has done just that, killing off the traditional seasonal nature of fashion and undermining the importance of quality and service to shopper experience. -
Vero Moda
Its wide appeal and attractive pricing make this women’s young fashion brand a favourite with indies. -
Vero Moda in directional push with Very launch
Danish contemporary womenswear brand Vero Moda has launched a directional diffusion range for spring 10 called Very by Vero Moda. -
Westfield visitor numbers exceed targets
Westfield London has attracted 23 million shoppers – 15% up on expectations – in the year since it opened. -
Womenswear Premium indicator, October 31, 2009
Access Drapers’ unique source of sales information from premium retailers, revealing the best-selling brands, the hottest products and the latest issues to affect womenswear by clicking on the PDF. -
Zara, Trafford Centre
Back on the money for the UK male, the offer returns to its classy catwalk influences.
