Drapers
4 March 2011
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***UPDATED***Dior: Tweets from the front row
“There is more to Dior than Galliano” said a Tweet from the front row of today’s Dior show, which opened with Dior boss Sidney Toledano making a surprise speech before the show began. -
1940s
Sensible-length skirts, wide, mannish trousers, and waisted dresses. -
A look we love
As seen on the streets of Paris, vintage-style fur collars on formal and casual outerwear were a big style statement that will stay strong for A/W 11/12. -
Alexander McQueen 'making Kate Middleton’s wedding dress'
Alexander McQueen creative director Sarah Burton is understood to be designing Kate Middleton’s wedding dress, although the label has denied the claims. -
Amanda Taylor
Women’s hosiery designer, Pantherella. -
Antonio Berardi
Origami folds and pleats met elegant, sophisticated cutting and a Quality Street palette -
Arrogant Cat retail arm rescued by management
The UK retail arm of womenswear brand Arrogant Cat has been rescued from administration by its management - but two of its three stores will still close. -
Blue at The Loft in Bath
Chosen by James Preston, head of sales at Janet Thurston and Mary Skinner Agency -
Burberry shares bolstered by Bulgari deal
Burberry shares soared after luxury goods house LVMH acquired accessories giant Bulgari with speculation that the luxury British heritage brand could be the latest to be snapped up. -
Capsule trend: Cubist Heritage
WGSN expects contrast sleeves and fabric combinations and the heritage trend to converge for AW 11/12 in a movement we are calling Cubist Heritage. -
Caroline Gautier and Linzi Boyd, Surgery
Laura Weir talks to Caroline Gautier (left) and Linzi Boyd about how the communications and brand development agency brings labels back to life. -
Choice to open store in Westfield Stratford
Premium indie Choice is to open its sixth store, in shopping centre Westfield Stratford, with a new-look shopfit set to cost about £1m. -
Christian Dior
Femininity came through via sweet satin knickerbockers, barely there layered chiffon dresses and a pastel palette. -
Clarks considers bringing manufacturing back to UK
Clarks, the global footwear giant, is assessing whether it can bring some production back to the UK to champion its British heritage. -
Clothing sales slow as consumers rein in spending
Women’s footwear, dresses and blouses were the few bright spots in dismal February for clothing sales, according to the latest figures from British Retail Consortium (BRC). -
Colour takes starring role at this year’s Oscars
Opinion is divided over the impact the red carpet gowns at this year’s Academy Awards will have on mainstream occasionwear sales, as there were clear colour trends but few other innovations with strong commercial appeal. -
Crêpe
For a dry handle and retro appeal, crêpe structures were widely used for spring 12 by mills at Première Vision, incorporating various yarn qualities and finishing techniques. -
Daks
An archive-inspired collection with updated details and proportion-playing silhouettes was at work. -
Denim Looks
The line between casual and formal looks were blurred at Première Vision for spring 12, as indigo yarns were added to suiting for a denim appeal. -
Dolce & Gabbana 'could merge' with D&G brand
Premium brand Dolce & Gabbana is considering merging its diffusion line D&G into its signature line so the company can focus on a single brand, according to reports. -
Dries Van Noten
IMAGE GALLRY: The latest Autumn 11 catwalk collections from Dries Van Noten at Paris Fashion Week. -
Emerging talent: Central Saint Martins College
Viktor Smedinge and Phoebe English were joint winners of the L’Oréal Professionnel Creative Award at the Central Saint Martins MA show. -
Experts predict Galliano racism row will be ‘just a blip’ for Dior
The Christian Dior label will emerge unscathed from the John Galliano racism row because of its swift decision to sack him, brand experts have claimed, but opinion is divided over what its next move should be. -
Fashion companies rank highly in Sunday Times Best Company survey
Specialist lingerie retailer Bravissimo, Gore-Tex parent company W L Gore, Net-a-Porter, the premium etailer and lifestyle retailer and lifestyle brand White Stuff have been named in The Sunday Times list of the 100 Best Companies To Work For. -
Forever 21 signs for first Scottish store
US fashion retailer Forever 21 is understood to have signed for its first store in Scotland. -
Galliano revolt: vive la maison Dior
John Galliano’s spectacular demise and inevitable sacking from Christian Dior jostled with Colonel Gaddafi for space on the front pages, such was the shock at the fall from grace of such a talented British-trained designer. -
Gareth Pugh
IMAGE GALLRY: The latest Autumn 11 catwalk collections from Gareth Pugh at Paris Fashion Week. -
Givenchy
A collection that is gothic in its mood and palette, lifted by Bettie Page pin-up prints in bold brights. -
G-Star’s denim goes 5D for autumn 11
G-Star is to launch a 5D denim range - a next generation move on from its highly successful 3D line - in a bid to double turnover and claw back market share in the premium denim market. -
Harrods London, Women's Shoe Department
No expense has been spared in the makeover of Harrods’ women’s footwear department and the money has been well spent, with the glamorous surroundings complementing the luxury offer. -
Hermès raises prospect of delisting as it announces record profits
The chief executive of luxury goods group Hermès International has hinted that the company may delist, as it reported a 46% surge in net profits in 2010 and delivered its biggest operating margin since going public in 1993. -
Hollister and Cult sign for Westfield Nottingham
Young fashion retailers Hollister and Cult are the first retailers to sign for Westfield’s new Broadmarsh shopping development in Nottingham. -
Indies bank on outerwear to be top autumn 11 performer
Indies are buying more outerwear for autumn 11 compared with last year, particularly parkas, fur and duffle coats, after a bitter autumn 10 caused sales of the category to soar. -
Inditex Group plans Manhattan flagship for Zara
Spanish fast-fashion company Inditex Group is planning a new flagship Zara store in New York after acquiring a 38,800 square foot store at 666 Fifth Avenue for $324m (£198.5m). -
Jean Paul Gaultier
IMAGE GALLRY: The latest Autumn 11 catwalk collections from Jean Paul Gaultier at Paris Fashion Week. -
JJB unveils CVA proposal
Embattled sports retailer JJB Sports has disclosed terms of its proposed CVA, which is seen by management as key to the retailer’s survival. -
John Galliano
IMAGE GALLRY: The latest Autumn 11 catwalk collections from John Galliano at Paris Fashion Week. -
John Galliano could face jail
John Galliano could face up to six months behind bars as he stands trial for his alleged anti-Semitic comments. -
John Galliano show replaced by "tableau vivant"
The show for John Galliano’s eponymous label will go on on Sunday – but the format and venue have been entirely changed. -
John Lewis Partnership profits up 20%
The John Lewis Partnership has reported profit before partnership bonus and tax up 20% to £367.9m, with staff receiving a bonus of 18% of salary. -
John Lewis reports half-term sales lift
Sales at department store chain John Lewis rose 7.2% to £54m last week, when the retailer benefited from the half-term holiday south of the border. -
John Lewis to raise £50m through retail bond
John Lewis Partnership, owner of the eponymous department store chain, is to raise £50m through a retail bond. -
JoJo Maman Bébé ups store openings
Maternitywear and kidswear retailer JoJo Maman Bébé is hunting for more UK stores as it prepares to make its international online debut. -
Kara Heward
Consultant, wholesale and design, CVUK -
Karen Millen aims to double sales following Aurora split
Karen Millen plans to double its sales to £500m in the next five years, after a decision by parent company Aurora Fashions to spin the company off as an independent business. -
Kate Middleton 'to drive growth in premium fashion'
The premium market will enjoy the strongest growth in the clothing sector over the next three years, helped by the influence of princess-to-be Kate Middleton on sales, according to new research. -
Key items and colours
Capes/ponchos, Duffle hybrids, Grenadine and Marigold -
Knot and Drape
Knot and drape details remain a key fashion feature for next season. -
Levi's hires Apple and Nike marketing guru
Denim giant Levi’s has hired Apple marketing guru Rebecca Van Dyck to spearhead the brand’s global communications strategy, helping to fill the void created when Levi’s was dropped by its ad agency. -
Linen
Linen proved to be a key fibre for spring 12, with raw slub texture exaggerated in both formal and casual areas, and even imitated in polyester and nylon for performance fabrics. -
London Fashion Week
Designers were divided between bright and dark palettes on the autumn 11 catwalks. -
London Fashion Week: Front row report
Front row report from London Fashion Week -
London Fashion Week: Street style
LFW guests were working some of autumn 11’s key trends. -
Louis Vuitton appoints UK designer
Louis Vuitton, the luxury brand, has appointed UK designer Kim Jones, former creative director of luxury goods brand Dunhill, as men’s ready-to-wear studio and style director. -
Louise Gray
Louise Gray delivered a playful collection, with primary colours seen in spots, stripes and tartans. -
Luxe Grunge
Sheers and velvet layered under stealth-wealth fur linings. -
LVMH takes over Bulgari
LVMH, the luxury goods group behind Louis Vuitton and Marc Jacobs, is to take control of accessories giant Bulgari. -
Marks & Spencer poaches Sara Bradley
Marks & Spencer is understood to have poached Sara Bradley, former Sainsbury’s clothing boss, who was weeks away from joining Asda. -
Menswear at LFW
A rich mix of smart, sartorial silhouettes and high-quality fabrics was joined by garish colour contrasts and new talent on London Fashion Week’s menswear day. -
Michael Kors opens largest store to date in Paris
US luxury womenswear and accessories retailer Michael Kors has marked Paris Fashion Week by opening its largest store to date in the city, and is planning a second store in London. -
Michael van der Ham
It was velvet, but not as we know it, at Michael van der Ham’s second show under the NewGen banner. -
MinkPink
This risk-taking brand from Down Under is proving a hit with womenswear indies looking to up their cool quota. -
Moss Bros appoints retail operations director
Moss Bros, the menswear group, has appointed Paul Rooke as retail operations director. -
Muted Metallics
Softened metallic effects were important for the season ahead at Première Vision, as fabric coatings evolved from high shine to a muted finish, with subtle tones ofbronze and pewter as key colours. -
New Boutiques: London
WGSN picks the best new boutiques the capital has to offer. -
Nicola Scott
Owner of contemporary womenswear indie Bunty & Co in Pocklington, East YorkshireBrands include Darling, H by Hudson, Maison Scotch, Nümph, Yumi -
Off the Record, March 4 2011
The inside track on the parties and gossip for the week. -
Outerwear updates you won’t want to miss
It’s always a good sign for retailers when designers show new desirable directions for outerwear in an autumn season. -
Paris Fashion Week: Alexander McQueen, Chanel and Valentino
If Alexander McQueen’s creative director Sarah Burton were to be designing Kate Middleton’s wedding dress then the collection of white gowns shown on the Paris catwalk yesterday could provide a hint of what is to come on April 29. -
Paris Fashion Week: Balenciaga
Balenciaga creative director Nicolas Ghesquière teamed strict angles with soft, grungy jumpers and silks at Paris Fashion Week, as he straddled the divide between offering directional pieces and wearable separates with aplomb. -
Paris Fashion Week: John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier and Hermes
Spectators turned out in force to witness John Galliano’s eponymous collection for autumn 11 at Paris Fashion Week, despite the racism row which surrounds him and the decision to axe his scheduled catwalk show in favour of a lower-key “tableau vivant”. -
Paris Fashion Week: Lady Gaga walks for Mugler
Paris Fashion Week: Last night pop star Lady Gaga took to the Mugler catwalk, reportedly causing such a stir it even made American Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour smile. -
Paris Fashion Week: Yves Saint Laurent
Yves Saint Laurent showed a highly-wearable and interpretable collection, anchored by Prince of Wales check fabric and some standout accessories, at Paris Fashion Week yesterday. -
Premium Menswear Indicator, March 4 2011
Access Drapers’ unique source of sales information from premium retailers, revealing the best-selling brands, the hottest products and the latest issues to affect menswear by clicking on the PDF. -
Premium Womenswear Indicator, March 4 2011
Access Drapers’ unique source of sales information from premium retailers, revealing the best-selling brands, the hottest products and the latest issues to affect womenswear by clicking on the PDF. -
Pushing the button on online shopping
Twelve months ago, Black White Denim did not exist. -
Retail bosses warn Treasury urgent action needed
The chiefs of several major retailers have warned the Treasury that urgent action is needed to prevent a double-dip recession and the possible closure of thousands of shops. -
Riccardo Tisci 'to replace John Galliano at Dior'
Givenchy creative director Riccardo Tisci is tipped by widespread chatter on Twitter to be named as John Galliano’s replacement at Christian Dior later today. -
saraberman.com
Andy Francis Co-founder of e-marketing agency E-style -
ShortList launches men's fashion magazine
ShortList Media, the publisher of free titles Shortlist and Stylist, is to unveil a new bi-annual men’s fashion magazine this evening. -
Sky’s the limit as Luke shoots TV ads
Men’s young fashion brand Luke will launch its first TV ad campaign this month on Sky’s new Sky Atlantic channel after increasing its marketing budget by 20%. -
Slump sparks buying shake-up at TK Maxx
TK Maxx parent TJX Europe has blamed unfocused buying for a 52% collapse in profits last year, and has bolstered its management and buying teams to turn the off-price retailer around. -
Spain's Privalia acquires German etailer Dress for Less
Spanish etailer Privalia has acquired German etailer Dress for Less from private equity firm Palamon Capital Partners in a bid to expand the company’s European reach. -
Sports Direct gets all-clear from SFO
Sports Direct has reported that the Serious Fraud Office has dropped investigations into any individuals connected to the retailer. -
Springfield eyes international expansion
Springfield, the Spanish menswear chain which has four standalone stores in the UK, has set its sights set on further international expansion. -
Superdry linked to Fenchurch rescue
Superdry was being tipped as a potential buyer for streetwear brand Fenchurch as Drapers went to press, after Fenchurch fell into administration blaming delivery delays and rising cotton prices and labour costs. -
Theo Paphitis
The retail entrepreneur has returned to lingerie with his Boux Avenue chain, confident he has spotted a gap in the market. So why should his rivals beware the TV dragon? -
TK Maxx plans to open in Haymarket
Off-price giant TK Maxx is planning to open a store near Piccadilly Circus after being told it “wasn’t posh enough” two years ago. -
Topshop set to open in Canada
Arcadia-owned Topshop is reported to be opening in Canada via a franchising deal with local retail group Hudson’s Bay Company (HBC). -
Tunic dressing
Easy tunic dresses and layered, relaxed tunic tops and easy, breezy knit dressing. -
Uniqlo style from the streets
The retailer is inviting customers to compile a global lookbook by uploading photos of their outfits to its new site. -
Urban Outfitters sales grow but profits drop
Lifestyle retailer Urban Outfitters grew net sales 13.6% in the three months to January 31, compared to the same period the previous year, but net profits dropped 3.1%. -
Well worn
Laundered and textured fabrics were in abundance at Première Vision. -
WGSN Boutique User Tip
Keeping ahead of the trends. -
White Stuff plans foreign foray as chairman steps down
Lifestyle retailer and brand White Stuff is to push into foreign markets and has launched a search for a new chairman to replace Vince Gwilliam who is stepping down. -
Woodhouse expands shop and brand mix
London menswear indie Woodhouse has relocated its shop to a unit more than double the size of its previous one.
