Alexander McQueen

Key Look: Amid the flamboyant global tribe references to Japanese kimonos, Cossack hats and Peruvian shawls, McQueen's brightly embroidered panels brought flair to the grey suit

Target market: Low slung, draped and layered knits spoke of a commercial aesthetic while the obsessive embellishment was far more dandyish

Silhouette: Asymmetric buttonings and swaddling wraps belied an elegantly waisted tailoring silhouette in three button and db options. Knits came in easier shapes to layer loose

Fabric: Tonic tailoring came with decorative flourishes including contrast colour embroidery, tartans, silky stripes and tonal paisleys

Colours: Grey and white was interspersed with smoky neutrals and earthy shades and enlivened with bright embroidery