Neil Barrett

Key Look: Despite the plethora of tuxedos, the techy outerwear was the biggest point of difference with its utility feel setting Barrett – who used to work with Puma – apart from Milan's other designer

Target market: Though he protested that he is "All about tailoring", Barrett's show will have appealed to premium-level fans of the utilitarian aestheitic

Silhouette: Complicated constructions were the hallmark of a show that teamed ski-wear with tuxedo references, so while the suits were narrow the quilted outerwear injected plenty of volume. Cropped pea coats were slimmer

Fabrics: Treated nylons and sateen weaves appeared on outerwear, sharply juxtaposed with fine wool suits and cable knits. This was yet another show to go for leather

Colours: Black, white and grey were constant across a variety of textures and a steely blue added the relief