Jil Sander

Key Look: Beyond the typically slim tailoring was some exciting casual pieces including hooded box-jackets and sleek leather shirts

Target market: Raf Simons peddle a strong line in simplicity and when he stuck to that rule here his devotees would have been happy but the expressionist style splatters were far from easy to wear

Silhouette: A clean and nipped-in slim silhouette on suiting with higher lapels and narrow legs; skin-skimming knits and boxy, calf-length outerwear

Fabric: Heavy wools added structure to suits and draped loose on long coats while leather shirts and heavy knits added the contrast

Colours: On the whole simplicity was – as ever – the key to Raf's palette with black and dark grey teamed with white. The highlights of chartreuse, brick red and bright blue were more commercial than the all-over Jackson Pollock style marbling