Versace

Key Look: The longer length coats were the core of this show and those that combined military references with sporty ones were most successful 

Target market: With the military references, the dark palette and not-too-slim elegance, this was aimed largely at the moneyed and mature with biker leathers the counterpoint

Silhouette: longer lengths on outerwear were the order of the day for Donatella, while tailoring stayed lean but more subtly so than the obviously waisted versions elsewhere. Like many other shows, Versace ushered in a raft of db styles

Fabrics: Despite the sateen weave suiting most was not too outre – tonic tailoring, wool outerwear and cable knits dominated along with leather

Colours: A streamlined palette of inky blue and graphite grey were teamed before midnight shades of plum and bronze, which in turn gave way to black leather and eveningwear