Paul Smith

Key looks: Simple black suits, tartan three-pieces and a played-down tux caught the eye
Inspiration: Paul Smith showed solid commercial nous with a sprinkling of Withnail and I
Silhouettes: Black suits offered the template for commercial menswear: elegantly waisted with a focus on fastenings, from 2sb to 4sb. Longer morning suits brought a more structured feel
Fabrics: Contrasting tartans and checks used every weight of wool, while velvet trousers and jeans offered textural contrasts
Colours: Simple black inspired the first half of the show, but gave way to glen checks and tartans