Yohji Yamamoto

Key looks: Vintage Yamamoto circa 1988 was brought back to life 20 years later
Inspiration: Military detailing along Soviet lines meant there were field coats and patch pocket jackets in thick wools, while a parade of tartans injected  a flash of brightness 
Silhouettes: Patch pockets on jacket breasts and combat-style trousers featured on voluminous and utilitarian silhouettes
Fabrics: Warm, swaddling wools were used on tailoring worn as oversized wraps 
Colours: Blacks dominated, with traditional plaids in blue, red and green