Moda
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Moda: Matinique
Celebrating its 40th anniversary this year, Danish menswear brand Matinique has created a 12-piece anniversary collection that is predominantly manufactured in Europe and includes items such as a 100% Italian merino wool coat.
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Moda: Sterling 1958
English outerwear brand Sterling 1958 has a history of making materials for labels including Burberry and Aquascutum.
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Moda: Rains
Scandinavian rainwear brand Rains made its UK trade show debut for autumn 13 at Moda with a simple concept - rainmacs in five colours and four shapes, available for both men and women.
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Moda: Barker
English shoemaker Barker has introduced several new styles for autumn 13, including one with a peg-sole construction that harks back to the shoemaking technology used in the days before Goodyear welting.
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Moda: Coster Copenhagen
This Danish brand focuses on sustainable fabrics and even gives the Chinese makers of its hand-knitted styles the opportunity to work from home rather than in factories.
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Moda: Culture
Autumn 13 is the second season in the UK for Danish womenswear brand Culture, which launched in its home country in 2004.
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Moda: Butterfly Twists
Folding ballet pump brand Butterfly Twists adds to its staple range of products for autumn 13 with the introduction of a boat shoe style, a brogue, a real leather pump, a velvet smoking slipper and a Wellington boot, all of which retain the brand’s signature twistable and foldable soles.
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Moda: Hauber
This is the first season that contemporary German womenswear brand Hauber has sold its collection in two rounds, with the first round sold from November and the second round launching on 28 January.
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Moda: L’Atelier
Making its wholesale debut at Moda for Autumn 13, short order dress brand L’Atelier has been sold online direct to consumers for about three months.
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Moda: State of Art
Dutch menswear brand State of Art is in its 3rd season in the UK and is hoping to build on its 24 stockists for autumn 13.
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Moda: Bjorn Borg
New for autumn 13 from Bjorn Borg’s footwear offer is the Monte Carlo collection, a selection of eight vulcanised trainer styles that have been designed to be a bit smarter than the average vulcanised trainer.
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Moda: Skechers
New from Skechers this season is an entire range of hidden 2” wedge vulcanised trainers aimed at the teenage market.
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Moda: Freya
New for spring 13 from lingerie brand Freya is the Oh La La collection which offers a balcony bra and underwired body with matching brief, short or thong.
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Moda: Latte
The mainstream Italian womenswear brand has evolved for this season to include more luxury touches on some of its pieces, including faux fur trims, studs and applique.
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Moda mood upbeat as show sees solid trade
Buyers and exhibitors reported a solid but unspectacular start to Birmingham trade show Moda yesterday (February 17).
Pure London
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Pure: Neon Rose
Neon Rose is a new short-order label that launched at Pure for spring 13.
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Pure: Ukulele
Ukulele’s edgy, directional stance set it apart from Pure’s other young fashion brands.
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Pure: Kean Paris
French brand Kean Paris debuts with a 13-piece forward-order range for autumn 13 and an 18-piece short-order offer for spring 13.
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Brands say orders up at ‘vibrant’ Pure London
Buyers and brands have praised a “more vibrant” edition of womenswear show Pure London, with anecdotal reports suggesting orders were up.
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Pure: Paper Dolls
Drapers’ Young Fashion Brand of the Year winner Little Mistress unveiled its new label, Paper Dolls at Pure.
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Pure: Miss Jolie
Short order knitwear specialist Miss Jolie has added new jersey pieces and dresses to its latest colourful collection.
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Pure: Nylo
Footwear distributor Highline United has added handmade Italian brand Nylo to its portfolio for autumn 13.
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Pure London opens for busy 33rd season
Exhibitors have praised the 33rd edition of Pure London, noting the womenswear tradeshow appeared busier than last season.
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Pure: DOMattitude
This is print dress brand DOMattitude’s first full season, having produced a small spring 13 collection as a trial which was only available in France.
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Pure: All Undone
Launching at Pure this season, All Undone is a lingerie brand with a unique selling point: it caters to women with smaller backs and larger busts (28-34 DD-GG).
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Pure: Poppy Lux
Coming from the same stable as Sugarhill Boutique, this new short order label launched at Pure, aiming at younger, edgier girl.
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Pure London Preview: Hemingway Vintage Lingerie
Inspired by the 1940s and 1950s, when design epitomised glamour and luxury, this debut lingerie range consists of eight looks including balconette bras, bustiers, corselettes and high-waisted briefs in tea dress prints, jacquard satins and elegant lace.
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Pure London Preview: Little Mistress
Little Mistress goes prim and proper for its initial 2013 injection; the 1960s with a hint of the 1950s silhouette are key influences.
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Pure London Preview: Montique
The 1950s and Grace Kelly influence Montique; stylish flared skirts, fitted corsets and shift dresses feature Lurex threading and foil lacing.
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Pure London Preview: Kat Maconie
The autumn 13 Kat Maconie collection draws inspiration from straps on leather saddles; buckles with curved bubble-effect and gold metal squares are clean, understated wardrobe staples.
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Pure London Preview: Oblique
For its second season at Pure London, Oblique will be adding a hint of provocation and sophistication to a feminine, elegant collection.
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Pure London Preview: Tous & Tous Complements
Autumn 13 follows three themes at Tous & Tous Complements.
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Pure London Preview: What’s on...
What’s happening at Pure?
Jacket Required
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Jacket Required: Dodd
After selling via its own website for the past few seasons, Dodd is available at wholesale for the first time for autumn 13.
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Jacket Required: Dual-ism Project, Descente
Sportswear brand Descente and innovative outerwear label Yono have come together to create the Dual-ism Project, a collection of super-technical performancewear that can work hard on the ski slope but also look cracking on the office commute.
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Jacket Required: Loreak Mendian
Coming from the Basque region of northern Spain, Loreak Mendian made its UK debut at Jacket Required.
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Jacket Required: Nordic Union of Novel Camouflage
Danish brand Nordic Union of Novel Camouflage, or NUNC for short, is stepping away from chinos and cutting down its denim offer to four key shapes and washes for autumn 13.
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Jacket Required: Smith Wykes
Young label Smith Wykes’ quality fabrics, focus on detail and modern takes on wardrobe classics caught Drapers’ eye.
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Jacket Required: Ucon
Making its UK show debut, Berlin brand Ucon blends a casual streetwear look with a smarter, tailored style.
Scoop
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Scoop: Marina London
This up-and-coming brand is now in its fourth season but made its trade show debut at Scoop for autumn 13.
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Scoop: D-Due Lab
D-Due Lab, sister label of Spanish label D-Due, is looking to crack the UK for autumn 13.
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Scoop: Rachel Antonio
This British brand’s autumn 13 collection is inspired by romanticism and neo-gothic architecture.
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Scoop: Ottod'ame
Italian brand Ottod’Ame is new to the UK having debuted at Scoop.
Margin
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Margin: Kaylee Cho
New to the UK, Korean designer Kaylee Cho’s womenswear brand debuts with an understated and elegant collection named Being Between Times.
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Margin: Judy Wu
Central Saint Martins-trained designer Judy Wu’s eponymous womenswear brand made its UK trade show debut at Margin.
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Margin: Apipo
Japanese womenswear label Apipo focuses on quality textiles, with organic wool used throughout and materials sourced mainly from Italy.
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Margin: Klushka
Now in its second season, womenswear label Klushka returns with its palette of soft brights and an expanded range.
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Margin: DPA
Launching for autumn 13 at Margin+, Sheffield-based men’s and women’s brand Dr Popcorn Apparel, or DPA for short, offers a selection graphic T-shirts.
Pitti Bimbo
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Pitti Bimbo: Frenchy Yummy
This Parisian brand has launched a mélange knitwear range, comprising a 30% cashmere and 70% wool blend.
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Pitti Bimbo: Caramel Baby & Child London
The English countryside has inspired this UK brand’s offer, featuring tweed coats and washed-wool jumpers.
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Pitti Bimbo: American Outfitters
This Belgian brand has glitzed up its girlswear range for autumn 13, with Lurex and sequins used across its knitwear and jersey pieces.
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Pitti Bimbo: Joe San
Rising from the ashes of the Joe Black brand, which closed due to production issues, this French label is new for autumn 13.
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Pitti Bimbo: Fa-so-la
Launched for autumn 13, this British girlswear brand offers six styles of outerwear in red, mustard and navy.
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Pitti Bimbo: Top 5 trends
Sparkle
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Pitti Bimbo attracts more UK buyers
The number of UK buyers at kidswear show Pitti Bimbo grew 10% for autumn 13’s edition despite a drop in the overall figure.
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Kidswear trade show Pitti Bimbo has been a revelation
Not only have the brands been positive but they showed off exciting new looks and concepts.
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Pitti Bimbo - Pale Cloud
Now in its fifth season this luxury kidswear brand has created a collection for autumn 13 from fabrics including leather, cashmere and silk.
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Pitti Bimbo - Marc O'Polo
A selection of layered looks were seen for boyswear at Marc O’Polo.
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Pitti Bimbo - American Outfitters
The Belgian brand has glitzed up its girlswear range for autumn 13 with lurex and sequins utilised across its knitwear and jersey items.
Who's Next
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Who’s Next Paris: 8pm
This is the third season for Italian womenswear brand 8pm, and its collection of fun, casual pieces had buyers buzzing around its stand.
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Who’s Next Paris: Coats Factory by Plesner
Offering a premium range of coats, this Plesner sub-brand specialises in classic designs in high-quality fabrics.
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Who’s Next Paris: Q&A
The Buyer: Deryane Tadd, owner of St Albans womenswear indie The Dressing Room
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Who’s Next Paris: Meam by Ricardo Preto
This Portuguese womenswear brand ticks many of the key trends for the autumn 13 season.
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Who’s Next Paris: On the radar - 75 Faubourg
Now in its second season, Paris brand 75 Faubourg offers stylish premium jeans.
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Who’s Next Paris: Avec S
The strong outerwear stands out at Avec S, with sleek updates giving classic pieces an interesting but commercial spin.
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Who’s Next Paris: Ece Salici
Istanbul-based brand Ece Salici’s third collection was refreshingly innovative, with creative designs including asymmetric jackets and coats with detachable, interchangeable panels.
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Who’s Next: Paolo Errico
Re-launching this season with a more competitive price range, Italian brand Paolo Errico has stepped its offering up a notch with a view to international expansion.
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Who’s Next: True Tradition
Famed for their 100% Italian-made trousers, this brand is breaking away from tradition by launching jackets this season for the first time.
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Who’s Next: Tequila Solo
Parisian womenswear brand Tequila Solo specialise in knitwear, so it is no surprise it was their fluffy angora and merino patterned jumpers and excellent interpretation of Navajo-inspired knits that caught our eye.
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Who’s Next: Cozete
It was all in the details at Cozete, the young French brand that launched last season.
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Who’s Next: Bella Jones
The autumn season is always strong on knitwear, so it takes a lot for an offer of jumpers and cardigans to stand out, but Bella Jones did.
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Who’s Next: By Zoe
By Zoe launches a new loungewear collection for autumn 13, with slim-fit hoodies, long-sleeve T-shirts and joggers made from the lightest towelling.
White
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White Milano: Felted
What hasn’t been done with the duffle? Well it seems like Felted is asking that very question, producing a variety of riffs on the classic shape to brighten up autumn 13.
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White Milano: Massimo Alba
Massimo Alba was only showing an edited version of the womenswear line but that was enough to impress at White.
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White Milano: Come for Breakfast
Come for Breakfast was formed in 2009 by design duo Antonio Romano and Francesco Alagna when the pair met for, you guessed it, a breakfast and came up with the plan for launching the unisex brand.
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White Milano: Roberto Collina
Knitwear was particularly strong at White, and none more so than at Roberto Collina where the menswear designs (all made in Italy from Italian yarns) swayed from the classic to the contemporary.
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White Milano: Collection Privee? for Doucal's
Yes, the industry needs another collaboration like it needs another recession but when they’re as good as this, the first Collection Privee? for Doucal’s link-up they’re hard to ignore.
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White Milano: Byungmun Seo
Having completed his MA at the London College of Fashion and had his work exhibited at the V&A, Korean designer Byungmun Seo career has got off to a good start.
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White Milano: Retropose
Having only previously released a small capsule range, this was the first full season for new bag brand Retropose.
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White Milano: C+
Denim brands can be ten a penny but C+’s approach to jeans and chinos is refreshing.
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White Milano: Nigel Cabourn
While the brand was also showing its latest menswear range, it was the debut of Cabourn’s womenswear collection that really captured the imagination.
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White Milano: Drink Beer Save Water
Now in its fifth season, Drink Beer Save Water (DBSW) has always taken a sideways glance at graphic T-shirts but for autumn 13 the brand has really moved things on with a witty and wearable range.
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White Milano - what to expect
Ian Wright gives you the lowdown from the Italian fashion capital’s premier tradeshow.
Pitti Uomo
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This week’s hero - Carven’s spring 13 show
Pointing the way to the most important products, people, stories and shows in fashion right now.
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Pitti Uomo - Spring 13
Brand DNAs formed the identity of spring 13 menswear rather than trends
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Pitti Uomo Spring 13 - Nigel Cabourn
Nigel Cabourn has bought its own sewing machine to create its line of Ventile-seam, shower-proof cotton jackets.
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Pitti Uomo Spring 13 - Henri Lloyd
Henri Lloyd marked its 50-year milestone with the reissue of its Olmes Carretti jacket.
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Pitti Uomo Spring 13 - Eden Park
“People want more detail, more colour, more chic – and less logos,” said Eden Park international director Thomas Cerbeland.
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Pitti Uomo Spring 13 - Ben Sherman
For its 50th anniversary, next year Ben Sherman will unveil a collection called Duke Street Foundry (Duke Street is the site of its first store, in Brighton), which is inspired by its iconic pieces.
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Pitti Uomo Spring 13 - Hancock
Former Mackintosh colleagues Gary Bott and Daniel Dunko have launched Hancock for spring 13, an outerwear brand inspired by Thomas Hancock, the English pioneer of the rubber industry.
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Pitti Uomo Spring 13 - Baracuta
Spring 13 heralded a more upmarket direction for 75-year-old brand Baracuta under new owners WP Lavori.
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Pitti Uomo Spring 13 - FB Collection
Capturing the Brazilian lifestyle, FB Collection’s range of shorts is a rainbow of bright colours and prints.
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Shopping trip
Drapers followed buyers Rob Adams and Richard Humby as they visited the Engineered Garments stand at Pitti.
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What are the key spring 13 trends at Pitti Uomo?
Industry insider’s share their thoughts.
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Pitti overseas buyers up 8%
The number of foreign buyers at menswear trade show Pitti Uomo rose 8% for its spring 13 edition.
Fashion Features
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Comment
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Dior cruise 2014: Wow with a capital W
20 May 2013 | By Ian Wright
Raf Simons’ show in Monaco was a gamble that’ll surely pay off.
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Deputy Diary: M&S - the saga continues Video
20 May 2013 | By Ana Santi
This time last week, we were waiting for Marks & Spencer to unveil its autumn 13 womenswear collection (see Drapers’ thoughts on this Reuters video) to see if it could rescue falling clothing sales; today we await its less favourable full-year results due out tomorrow.
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Bangladesh: 'Ethics' is not a dirty word
17 May 2013 | By Catherine Neilan
It is impossible for the images coming out of Bangladesh in the past few weeks not to leave their impact and, in discussing the business response to the tragedy, we must not lose sight of the fact that people have lost their lives because sufficient precautions were not taken.
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With £600 gilets, M&S autumn 13 falls wide of the mark
17 May 2013 | By Catherine Neilan
The much-anticipated preview of Marks & Spencer’s autumn 13 collection drew everyone’s focus to the quality of the range – but at what expense to the actual customer?




