Brαndwαtch: Aquαscutum

The figures are yet to match its ever-improving profile, but Aquascutum's plans suggest a return to glory is not far off.

Traditionally known for its classic trench coats, Aquascutum's popularity among Hollywood actors and royal dignitaries in the 1960s made it the height of British cool. Fast forward to today and the brand, which was born in 1851, is rebuilding that reputation.

But in the interim, Aquascutum lost its way. Current losses of £8 million reflect years of an ever-diminishing customer base, which forced its Japanese owner Renown Incorporated to inject some fresh blood.

That came 18 months ago in the form of ex-Pringle chief executive Kim Winser, whose first step was to bring the product up to date and inject some sex appeal into the Aquascutum brand. "I wanted to emphasise our Britishness," she says. "As Brits we have one of the most creative personalities in fashion."

The men charged with energising the merchandise offer were menswear designer Graeme Fidler and womenswear designer Michael Herz. "Aquascutum's archive plays a big part, but the fantasy element is also key," says Herz. "I adored the red, beige and pink Japanese-style outfit we designed for the spring 08 catwalk, and that is testament to the edge we are trying to give Aquascutum."

With product up to scratch, Winser hired former Pringle colleague Susie Murray as wholesale sales and country licensing director to boost the brand's wholesale arm. Wholesale accounts for 20% of the business, but there are plans to take it to 50% in the next five years. "We have opened 40 of the 50 worldwide accounts we had targeted for next spring, including Bergdorf Goodman in New York and London's Harvey Nichols," she says.

The final part of Aquascutum's rebirth was to develop a more modern image. This began with a new shopfit for the London Regent Street flagship which was completed last month and will be rolled out to further stores next year. The retailer also launched a new ad campaign, fronted by supermodel Gisele Bündchen.

To complement its London collection and the catwalk ranges, the brand launched Aquascutum Limited in autumn 06. Savile Row tailor Nick Hart describes the 90-piece menswear collection he created for Aquascutum as "understated 1960s-inspired tailoring that is simple and perfectly cut".

Philip Start, owner of two-store London designer independent Start, stocks Limited. "It's different to what we've seen before from Aquascutum. Nick Hart has a strong tailoring signature, but the range is still reasonably priced," he says.

Completing the brand profile is Vintage, a collection of 1930s- and 1950s-inspired coats and trenches. An accessories element, including bags and footwear, will launch in 2008 under new accessories designer Sara Porro.

John Pattinson, head of menswear for department store Bentalls in Kingston upon Thames, says the brand is now coming into its own. "British brands are very on-trend at the moment, and Aquascutum is a modern British classic. It does well for us and I see it continuing to do so."