Pitti Uomo show report

Shawl collars and grey were prominent at Pitti Uomo last week

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Buyers on the trail of spanking new trends should have packed magnifying glasses and deerstalkers; so elusive were they among the cache of autumn 08 menswear at Pitti Uomo.

An umbrella would have helped too in the drizzle drenched city where the dark skies were mirrored in the Fortezza da Basso's tailoring halls by a barrage of grey. Reflecting a near certain mood of buying caution there were few risk takers in the premium menswear supply camp. Instead the emphasis was on luxury and subtle detailing with regular flashes of colour.

Purple dominated as autumn's preferred highlight shade appearing largely on knits and shirts with a few brave brands introducing it subtly into tailoring.

Purple dominated as autumn's preferred highlight shade as shown here on a Ballantyne overcoat

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While there was plenty of black and a growing move towards navy blue from brands including Aquascutum (who would have guessed this was a menswear show) grey provided the background for almost every collection.

Newness came from the way grey was used, with everyone from Pal Zileri to Hackett creating tone on tone looks. Dove grey jackets, for example, were combined with charcoal trousers and layered with 1940's and 1950's inspired mid-grey zig-zag pattern V-knits. Understated and chic the results were reminiscent of Hollywood's screen idols from the same periods – for reference think Cary Grant and Spencer Tracy.

Buyers will have to think carefully around the merchandising challenges, although presented coherently the look should do enough to entice shoppers come next autumn.

Fur collared double-breasted overcoats defined the luxury trend

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The luxury theme was presented at its most lavish by tailoring heavyweight Corneliani which in the absence of Ermenegildo Zegna held court in the Padiglioni Centrale.

The presentation was more P Diddy's penthouse than exhibition stand, with rail upon rail of the most exquisite tailored silhouettes – many three-piece with a continued emphasis on both peaked as well as notched lapels – all dripping in lavish fabrics.

Fur collared double-breasted overcoats defined the trend although an overarching use of velvet, either on half-collars or all over on tailoring, provided options for lounge lizards as well as fat cats.