New York Fashion Week got off to a somewhat sombre start on Friday, according to reports from the US, with collection sizes reduced by up to 25%, designers pairing up for joint shows, and smaller, more modest catwalk venues taking the place of last season’s grandiose locations.
DKNY showed a distinctly grown-up aesthetic in contrast to its polka dot playsuits and boyfriend jeans of spring 09. Demure, below the knee hemlines featured on puppytooth pencil skirts, stripy knits sported chin skimming polo necks, and Chanel-inspired cropped jackets looked ultra chic. It was left to the silhouette to provide DKNY’s trademark sexiness, with waspish waists creating killer hourglass shapes.
Over at BCBG Max Azria, snowy boiled wool cocoon coats were paired with silver lame leggings, and the futuristic feel was continued through satin and sheer panelled tops and double-collared deconstructed dresses.
The collection finished with a softer edge as glossy satins and velvet were draped and knotted to hang loosely across the body in shades of chocolate, midnight blue and gold.