Drapers
10 December 2010

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Jacqueline Gold

The Ann Summers boss tells Marie Davies why a bullet in the post made her even more determined to make a success of the lingerie chain.
‘Sexy’ kidswear crackdown is unworkable, say retailers

Retailers have played down the potential impact of a government inquiry into the “sexualisation” of kidswear and said the issue was not widespread.
01 Christopher Bailey

Chief creative officer, Burberry
02 Stephen Craig & Kevin Stanford (1)

Chief executive and chairman, All Saints
03 The cotton farmer ***New***

The cotton farmer is used to a relatively lowly position in the fashion hierarchy, but he saw his stock soar in 2010, and, as a result, his profile as one of the most powerful characters in the industry also rocketed.A ban on cotton exports from India at the start of the year, poor cotton harvests in China and flood-hit Pakistan put a severe squeeze on supply. This, coupled with a surge in demand for cotton, meant the fibre went from a staple product to being traded as a commodity by t
04 Paul Marchant ***New***

Chief executive, Primark
05 Peter Ruis (6)

Buying and brand director, John Lewis
06 Phoebe Philo ***New***

Creative director, Céline
07 Lord Simon Wolfson (8)

Chief executive, Next
08 Julian Dunkerton (43)

Chief executive, SuperGroup
09 George Osborne ***New***

Chancellor of the Exchequer
10 Kate Bostock (18)

General merchandise director, Marks & Spencer
11 Sir Philip Green (4)

Owner, Arcadia Group (including Bhs)
12 Nick Robertson (13)

Chief executive, Asos
13 Mary Homer (20)

Managing director, Topshop
14 Nigel Lawson New & Steve Sanderson ***NEW***

Owners, Oi Polloi
15 Michael Sharp ***New***

Deputy chief executive, Debenhams
16 The stock house ***New***

As tough economic conditions continued into 2010, the need for short order, urgent stock swaps and quick repeat orders played straight into the hands of the stock houses, as indies looked to give their customers fresh, trend-led product in an attempt to convince them to part with their cash.While no indie would give up their core big-name forward-order collections, most have been forced to become more flexible to buy quick-react creep-up trends such as the maxi dress this summer. Stock
17 Christos Angelides (17)

Group product director, Next
18 Jane Shepherdson (58)

Chief executive, Whistles
19 Yuki Katsuta ***New***

Creative director, Uniqlo
20 Neil Clifford (27)

Chief executive, Kurt Geiger
21 Steve Buck ***New***

Managing director, Barbour
22 Paul Kelly (15)

Chief executive, Selfridges
23 Bea Padin ***New***

Head of womenswear, Zara
24 Carl McPhail (12)

Chief executive, New Look
25 Marigay McKee (69)

Group fashion and beauty director, Harrods
26 Liam Gallagher ***New***

Founder, Pretty Green
27 Harold Tillman (3)

Owner, Jaeger, Allders and Aquascutum, chairman, British Fashion Council
28 Don McCarthy (25)

Chairman, House of Fraser
29 Pixie Lott ***New***

Singer
30 Margareta van den Bosch (16)

Creative adviser, H&M
31 Barry Bown ***New***

Chief executive, JD Sports Fashion
32 Susie Crippen ***New***

Co-founder and creative director, J Brand
33 Natalie Massenet (54)

Founder and executive chairman, Net-a-Porter
34 Hilary Alexander New

Fashion director, The Daily Telegraph
35 David Shepherd (19)

Managing director, Topman
36 Ray Kelvin (37)

Founder and chief executive, Ted Baker
37 Paul Sweetenham (11)

President, TJX Europe
38 David Reiss (38)

Managing director, Reiss
39 Tim Whitworth New

Chief executive, Republic
40 Mark Bage (86)

Owner, Sarah Coggles
41 Farida Kaikobad New

Brand director, River Island
42 Alexa Chung Re-entry

Model and TV presenter
43 Ralph Lauren ***New***

Founder, chairman and chief executive, Polo Ralph Lauren
44 Derek Lovelock (29)

Chairman, Aurora Fashions
45 Rob Templeman (7)

Chief executive, Debenhams
46 Sir Stuart Rose (10)

Executive chairman, Marks & Spencer
47 Alan White (42)

Chief executive, N Brown
48 Stephen Newlands ***Re-entry***

Group managing director, AMG Footwear
49 Stephanie Chen New

Director of womenswear and accessories, House of Fraser
50 Pernilla Wohlfahrt New

Brand director, Cos
51 Mary Portas (45)

Television presenter, and creative director, Yellowdoor
52 Andy Rubin (56)

Chief executive, Pentland Brands
53 Sebastian Manes ***New***

Director of women’s accessories, lingerie and women’s swimwear, Selfridges
54 Bernd Hake (74)

UK managing director, Hugo Boss
55 Pierre Morisset New

Designer, G-Star
56 Malcolm Collins (52)

Buying and design director for footwear and accessories, New Look
57 Richard Kirk (51)

Chief executive, Peacock Group
58 Joseph Wan (68)

Chief executive, Harvey Nichols
59 Sir Paul Smith (62)

Designer
60 Alistair McGeorge (46)

Non-executive director, Matalan
61 Brian Brick (88)

Chief executive, Moss Bros
62 Monique Fischer New

Vice-president of international sales, Gerry Weber
63 Belinda Earl (35)

Chief executive, Jaeger and Aquascutum
64 Jonny Hewlett New

UK managing director, Diesel
65 Fiona Lambert New

Brand director, George at Asda
66 Daisy Lowe New

Model
67 Victoria Beckham (73)

Designer
68 Barbara Horspool New

Group design director, New Look
69 Erdem Moragliou ***New***

Designer
70 Tony Brown New

Chief executive, Beales
71 Wil Beedle & (82) Hannah Coffin

Menswear and womenswear design directors, All Saints
72 Stephen Marks (84)

Chairman and chief executive, French Connection
73 Mike Shearwood (86)

Chief executive, Aurora Fashions
74 Mark Newton-Jones (72)

Chief executive, Shop Direct Group
75 Ed Burstell New

Managing director, Liberty
76 Michael Ward New

Managing director, Harrods
77 Jan Marchant & Jon Bennett New

Buying director and online buying director for clothing, Tesco
78 Tom Joule New

Chief executive, Joules
79 Simon Poole (60)

Managing director, Luke
80 Xin He New

Head of fashion, Europe, eBay
81 David Beckham Re-entry

Footballer
82 Jane McNally (70)

Chief executive, Alexon
83 Mark Fenwick (83)

Group chairman, Fenwick
84 Melissa Potter ***New***

Chief executive, Clarks
85 Peter Marino New

Architect, Louis Vuitton on Bond Street
86 Gemma (91) Metheringham

Joint chief executive, Karen Millen
87 Simon Berwin (33)

Managing director, Berwin & Berwin, board member, UK Fashion & Textile Association
88 Tom Ford Re-entry

Designer
89 Christina New Hendricks & Jon Hamm

Actors, Mad Men
90 Derrick Campbell (40)

Managing director, Lyle & Scott
91 Peter Lucas (41)

Chairman, BMB Group, UK Fashion & Textile Association
92 Steve Robinson (64)

Chief executive, M and M Direct
93 Jane Bruton (67)

Editor, Grazia
94 Geoff Quinn New

Managing director, TM Lewin
95 Prince Charles New

Campaigner
96 Isabel Marant New

Designer
97 Henry and George Graham New

Co-founders, Wolf & Badger
98 Larry Meyer New

Executive vice-president, Forever 21
99 Nigel Blow

Chief executive, Arnotts Re-entry
Bangladeshi textile workers clash with police over pay

Thousands of Bangladeshi garment workers have clashed with police over the failure of factories to implement a new, higher minimum wage.
Baugur boss Johannesson avoids New York court case

Jon Asgeir Johannesson, the boss of defunct Icelandic investor Baugur, has avoided a court case in the US after a judge in New York threw out a legal case against the London-based investor which claimed he was involved in a $2bn (£1.2bn) fraud.
Ben Sherman third quarter sales drop

Net sales at young fashion brand Ben Sherman dropped by 14% during its third quarter with the axing of its womenswear collection cited as a key reason for the decline.
BFC cash crisis looms as Vaizey says sorry for ‘cock-up’

Culture minister Ed Vaizey has privately apologised to the British Fashion Council for a Treasury “cock-up” that has left London Fashion Week short of funding, Drapers understands.
Brave product decisions dictated how much nervy shoppers spent in 2010

I never thought I’d say it, but the Drapers Top 100 2010 proved even harder to compile than last year’s.
British Fashion Council announces Newgen winners

Designers including David Koma, Holly Fulton, Louise Gray, Mary Katrantzou and Michael van der Ham have been awarded catwalk sponsorship by the British Fashion Council (BFC)’s Newgen scheme for London Fashion Week.
British Menswear Guild to merge with UKFT

The British Menswear Guild (BMG) is to become part of the UK Fashion & Textile Association (UKFT) after the menswear trade body failed to grow its membership.
Building a dream boutique

Google’s online fashion venture Boutiques.com, which launched last month, combines both fashion and celebrity to create a personalised experience in an online community.
Burton

Spring 11
Burton in talks over Baird concessions

Menswear supplier Baird Group is understood to have entered talks with Arcadia Group menswear chain Burton about converting its tailoring concessions to a straight suit supply agreement.
Business rates revamp under Localism Bill

Local authorities will have greater control over setting business rates under new powers proposed in the Localism Bill.
Cad & The Dandy to launch eco suit

Tailoring business Cad & The Dandy is gearing up to launch its first eco suit.
Channel 4 to broadcast McQueen and Blow documentary

Channel 4 is to broadcast a documentary on the late British fashion designer Lee Alexander McQueen and stylist Isabella Blow.
Christmas at least as good as last year, retailers believe

Most retailers expect Christmas trading to be at least as good as last year’s and said that shoppers had brought forward purchases to avoid the January VAT rise.
Clothing and footwear prices rise at record rates

Clothing and footwear prices rose 2% in November, the most in an October to November period since records began, contributing to a record rise in overall inflation during the month.
Deckers takes legal action against Emu Australia

Deckers, owner of popular footwear brand Ugg, has begun legal proceedings against sheepskin footwear brand Emu Australia, claiming infringement of its Ugg trademark.
Diverse Clothing in Angel, north London

Chosen by Karen Peacock, director of design, Debenhams
Dorothy Perkins

Spring 11
Eleven rethinks offer with bespoke suiting

Premium indie Eleven in Sunderland is axing its womenswear offer from spring 11 as it looks to make space for a bespoke suit department.
Equipment

The blouse is set to be a style staple for spring 11 and US women’s shirt specialist Equipment is tipped to be the choice brand.
Ermenegildo Zegna moves into ecommerce

Premium menswear brand Ermenegildo Zegna has launched its first ecommerce site as part of a strategy to engage with shoppers using online platforms and social media.
Fashion Enter opens a new London store

Not for profit organisation Fashion Enter has opened a new concept store in London which incorporates showroom space for designers and buyers.
Fire rages at key Bangladeshi clothing factory

A factory in Bangladesh which is understood to supply retailers in Europe including H&M has been razed to the ground by a fire which has killed four workers and injured 100 more.
firetrap.com

Paul Bidder, Commercial director at digital strategy agency Red Ant
Footwear Clarks gives nod to storefit roll-out

Footwear giant Clarks has pushed the button on the roll-out of a new-look store interior following trials in the UK and overseas.
Friends in high places can give industry a lift

Ed Vaizey, the enthusiastic ‘Minister for Fashion’, had plenty of good things to say about the industry in general and the UK Fashion & Textile Association (UKFT) in particular during his Q&A session at the recent Drapers Fashion Summit.
Gilly Hicks, Westfield London

Abercrombie & Fitch-owned underwear brand Gilly Hicks has opened its first UK store, but shoppers may get the feeling they’ve seen it all before.
Green light for new Greenwoods fascia

Menswear chain Greenwoods Menswear is to roll out a new fascia called Greenwoods Highstreet Outlet to target shoppers in less affluent areas.
H&M sales soar after Lanvin success

H&M, the Swedish fast fashion chain, said like-for-like sales jumped 8% in November, the month in which it launched its sell-out Lanvin collection.
How to make the move from bricks to clicks

Following on from last month’s feature on newly opened Bristol indie Garment Quarter, owner John Reid begins his regular column on setting up an independent. This week, he talks about launching a website.
Inditex profits jump after rapid expansion

Inditex, the group behind chains including Zara, Massimo Dutti, Bershka and Pull and Bear, said profits increased 42% to €1.2bn (£994m) in the nine months to October 31.
JJB Sports still ‘key’ customer for Nike

Sportswear giant Nike has reaffirmed its commitment to working with beleaguered chain JJB Sports.
John Lewis has record week as high street sales thaw

John Lewis had its best ever weekly sales performance last week as customers returned to the high street after the heavy snow.
Joules in talks with Deloitte to grow business

Lifestyle brand and retailer Joules is in talks with advisors at accountancy firm Deloitte about options to grow the business.
Laura Ashley sales rise despite snow

Fashion-to-furnishings retailer Laura Ashley said like-for-likes grew 2.7% in the 19 weeks to December 11.
Marks & Spencer extends Christmas opening hours at 200 shops

Marks & Spencer will extend its opening hours to 10pm at 200 of its stores during Christmas week.
Marks & Spencer suspends Scottish deliveries

Marks & Spencer has become the latest retailer to suspend deliveries to Scotland and parts of northern England because of the severe weather conditions.
Message from the sponsor

The Drapers Top 100 honours those who contribute to the industry in an outstanding capacity at a variety of levels of their career, whether as an emerging talent with huge ambition or as an accomplished business leader with a proven track record.
Miss Selfridge

Spring 11
Moss Bros like-for-likes rise

Like-for-like sales at menswear group Moss Bros rose by 8.3% in the 18 weeks to December 4.
Mulberry interim profits soar

Luxury brand and retailer Mulberry has posted a 207% surge in first-half pre-tax profits to £4.7m on sales up 38% and full year earnings are expected to beat market expectations.
Newgen Men winners announced

Menswear designers including Christopher Shannon, James Long, JW Anderson and Katie Eary were among the recipients of the British Fashion Council’s Newgen Men sponsorship.
Next Generation 2011

Following on from the huge success of Drapers’ inaugural Next Generation campaign in January, we are set to unveil the rising young stars of 2011, who will undoubtedly be fashion’s next top designers, buyers, merchandisers – the list is endless, and full of talent.
Nicole Farhi brings in Nicosia to head up menswear

Massimo Nicosia, the former head of menswear collections at luxury knitwear brand Pringle of Scotland and Italian luxury brand Alessandro Dell’Acqua, has been appointed head of menswear for the Nicole Farhi and Farhi by Nicole Farhi collections at the eponymous designer label.
Off the Record, December 10 2010

The inside track on the parties and gossip for the week.
Office sale expected today

Private equity firm Silverfleet is expected to complete a deal to buy footwear chain Office by the end of today. The price paid is expected to be below the original £150m tag.
Office seals Silverfleet deal

Private equity firm Silverfleet has bought footwear chain Office for an undisclosed amount from owner West Coast Capital (WCC). Chief executive Brian McCluskey has reinvested in the business and will remain in his role.
Pepe Jeans, Geox and Mayoral join Bubble

Denim brand Pepe Jeans, Italian footwear brand Geox and Spanish kidswear brand Mayoral are the latest brands to sign up to kidswear trade show Bubble London.
PICTURE GALLERY: Burberry Prorsum unveils pre-fall 11 collection

Luxury British brand Burberry Prorsum has unveiled its pre-fall 11 collection.
PPR scotches Burberry takeover talk

French luxury group PPR, the business behind brands including Gucci, Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen, has ruled out any potential deal to acquire British luxury brand Burberry.
Pure Spirit on hunt for design talent

Young fashion trade show Pure Spirit has launched a competition to find talented young designers as part of its Next Generation initiative.
Rafael Nadal is new face of Armani

Tennis player Rafael Nadal is to be the new face of Emporio Armani Underwear and Armani Jeans.
Reiss and Whistles to repeat items in Royal engagement pictures

Reiss and Whistles are to repeat for spring 2011 the items worn by Queen-in-waiting and budding style icon Kate Middleton for her official engagement photographs following an uplift in demand.
Reiss appoints its first overseas boss

Premium retailer Reiss has appointed its first dedicated head of international as it accelerates plans to open stores in new territories.
River Island halts Scottish deliveries

Young fashion retailer River Island has become the latest company to stop deliveries in Scotland because of the severe winter weather.
Sara Eresen

Co-owner of contemporary womenswear indie Harvest in Chelsea, west LondonBrands include Isabel de Pedro, Patrizia Pepe, Pinko, Roberto Cavalli Class, Save the Queen!
Secon Group brands sold off

Dutch private equity group Fashion Fund I has completed the break up of the Secon Group, the Dutch brands house behind womenswear brands Turnover and Creenstone and menswear brand Arrow.
Sir Tom Hunter and JD linked to Cruise deal

Sir Tom Hunter and JD Sports Fashion are understood to be circling beleaguered designer mini-chain Cruise just one week after the business was linked to restructuring specialist Hilco.
Situation ‘critical’ as snow freezes sales

Retailers to promote heavily next week to offset ‘irreversible’ damage to trade.
Snow-blind retailers mull next move

Don’t say the S-word. That’s ‘snow’ or ‘Sale’ in case you missed the deep freeze that has been the UK’s high streets of late
SuperGroup first half pre-tax profit soars 86%

SuperGroup saw pre-tax profit surge 86% to £14.6m for the first half of the year, giving the company confidence ahead of the final week and a half of Christmas trading.
Tesco and Sainsbury's suspend Scotland orders due to snow

Tesco and Sainsbury’s have stopped taking orders on their websites from customers in Scotland, because of the bad weather.
The weekend newspaper round up: December 11 to 12, 2010

A round up of the best fashion business stories from the weekend’s newspapers.
Topman

Spring 11
Topshop

Spring 11
Trouser revival hits sales of women’s jeans and skirts

Sales of women’s jeans have plummeted by nearly a quarter in the past six months, while sales of skirts have taken an 8% knock.
Tube strikes set for Boxing Day

London retailers are braced for a further blow to sales this Christmas after Tube drivers voted in favour of a walkout on Boxing Day.
UK launch for value label Baci Lingerie

US value lingerie brand Baci Lingerie will launch in the UK and has plans to open 50 stores and target major high street chains to be stockists.
VF Corporation and Kellwood eye Rock & Republic

VF Corporation, the US owner of brands including The North Face, Wrangler, 7 For All Mankind and Lee, and US brands house Kellwood, which owns premium lifestyle brand and retailer Vince, are understood to be circling bankrupt denim brand Rock & Republic.
VIDEO: Harvey Nichols tongue-in-cheek Christmas viral

Luxury department store Harvey Nichols has aired a tongue-in-cheek Christmas viral video sending up the fashionistas who use their dogs as the ultimate fashion accessory.
Wallis

Spring 11
West End stores open as normal after riots

Stores on Oxford Street and Regent Street are trading as normal this morning despite rioting last night by student protesters.
What would you ask Nigel Cabourn?

Drapers fashion editor Laura Weir is interviewing menswear designer Nigel Cabourn and would like your input.
World Cup boosts Sports Direct profits

Sportswear retailer Sports Direct had its biggest ever trading day on England’s first match of the football World Cup, helping it to notch up a 40% rise in underlying pre-tax profits.
Young Fashion Menswear Indicator, December 10 2010

Access Drapers’ unique source of sales information from young fashion retailers, revealing the best-selling brands, the hottest products and the latest issues to affect menswear by clicking on the PDF.
Young Fashion Womenswear, December 10 2010

Access Drapers’ unique source of sales information from young fashion retailers, revealing the best-selling brands, the hottest products and the latest issues to affect womenswear by clicking on the PDF.

Drapers10 December 2010

Drapers
10 December 2010