Drapers
14 July 2012

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‘I share inspirations with my customers and so should you’

Whether you are a retailer or a supplier – and I’m both – you should always be looking for new and easy ways to engage with your clientele.
‘Let your audience tell your story for you’

Fashion has come a bit late to the party on social media but now there’s a scramble to be au courant.
A trip to Stitch to come

It may be Friday afternoon but my thoughts have already turned to Monday morning when a trip to menswear trade show Stitch will be on the cards.
Asos boss plays down Bostock rumours

Asos chief executive Nick Robertson insists he is not looking for a managing director, a role M&S outgoing clothing boss Kate Bostock was widely tipped to be in the running for.
Asos: Analyst reaction

As Asos reports a 31% sales rise in its first quarter, Drapers takes a look at what city analysts make of the etailer’s performance.
Aspiga combines style and ethics

For those who still fear that ethical equals a compromise on style, then take a look at Aspiga, which offers a range of beaded sandals that allow you to channel the tribal trend in a principled way.
Aurora Fashions launches retail talent programme

Aurora Fashions, the parent company behind womenswear chains Oasis, Coast and Warehouse, has announced the launch of an academically-accredited retail talent programme for its store staff in the UK and Ireland.
Bostock to leave M&S through "mutual consent"

Kate Bostock is leaving Marks and Spencer this autumn through “mutual consent” after eight years at the company.
Cath Kidston raids Levi's for supply chain director

Fashion and homewares retailer Cath Kidston has further strengthened its management team by hiring Levi’s senior vice-president of global supply chain Geert Peeters.
Christian Louboutin sets date for first London men's store

Luxury footwear label Christian Louboutin, known for its iconic red soles, is to open its first London men’s store on Dover Street in November.
Clearing the decks

Carsten Skovgaard is shaking up John Lewis’s branded menswear with a focus on younger labels.
Coast flagship, Oxford Street

Occasionwear” is a niche category in the fashion market, where a garment may be purchased in mild panic and be worn only a couple of times before a new item is considered.
Debenhams targets Germany in first foreign language site

Department store retailer Debenhams has launched its first foreign language site in Germany as the retailer steps up its international expansion strategy.
Designer to take legal action against M&S

Homewear specialist Rachael Taylor Designs is taking legal action against Marks & Spencer, after the retail giant was found selling clothing using her distinctive print.
Digital Edition: July 14 2012

Menswear Spring 13 Special
DKNY is ahead of the game

The label has moved into the world of gaming via a Facebook app that lets wannabe stylists test their skills.
Do you still do your buying at trade shows?

Industry insider’s share their thoughts.
Ethel Austin plunges into administration

Ethel Austin has fallen into administration for the fourth time after being saved just last August.
Facebook fans are "disproportionately" more loyal

Facebook fans of retailers such as Asos, H&M and Zara are “disproportionately” more likely to visit a brand’s website compared to the average online user, according a new report.
Falling sales trigger M&S shake-up

More management changes forecast as retailer battles to revive fortunes after slump in general merchandise sales.
Fashion Index

View our fashion data pages to get a barometer of trade in the UK and worldwide.
Franklin & Marshall to wholesale in Harrods

Young fashion brand Franklin & Marshall is to begin wholesaling via luxury department store Harrods, starting next month.
George McNeil

Johnstons of Elgin’s retail MD tells graeme moran how a brand can uphold its traditions while embracing modernity.
Get ready for the latest trends and trade shows

It’s time for another round of special issues dedicated to what’s hot for the season ahead, in this case spring 13.
Gieves & Hawkes plan million pound store updates

Savile Row men’s tailoring business Gieves & Hawkes is to receive a seven figure sum of investment from its new owners in a move to update its UK store portfolio.
Gola beefs up clothing division

Sportswear brand Gola has appointed Skipton Leisure director Andrew Rhodes as commercial manager, with Rhodes bringing across his two boardwear brands.
H&M June like-for-likes rise 3%

Like-for-like sales at fast fashion retailer H&M rose 3% in June as total sales jumped by 13%.
Helly Hanson stake sold to pension fund

Private equity vehicle Altor Equity Partners is to sell 75% of its stake in outdoor specialist Helly Hansen Group to a Canadian pension fund.
How I got here - Diane Ruhimbasa

After a degree in HR, persistence and determination helped Kicker’s product co-ordinator into fashion
IMAGE GALLERY: Adidas Originals and Opening Ceremony

Adidas Originals and cult New York indie Opening Ceremony have unveiled their premium capsule collection.
IMAGE GALLERY: Matalan Christmas collection

Value retailer Matalan has unveiled four womenswear collections for this Christmas, with pattern, texture and festive sparkle key to all.
IMAGE GALLERY: Opening Ceremony launches pop-up shop

Cult New York indie Opening Ceremony threw open the stores on its Covent Garden pop-up shop today.
IMAGE GALLERY: TOWIE star Jessica Wright's dress range

A party dress range from The Only Way is Essex star Jessica Wright will launch for autumn 12 after being designed and manufactured in the UK.
Industry pays tribute to former Drapers editor Gerry Saunders

Gerry Saunders, the former editor and publisher of Drapers who died on July 3 aged 83 after a short illness, will be remembered as a well-respected industry leader and “inspirational” editor.
Is Superdry right to change its womenswear offer?

As SuperGroup reported a much anticipated slip in its full-year profits, chief executive Julian Dunkerton told me that its young fashion brand Superdry was to take massive strides in terms of its womenswear product offer for spring 13.
J.Lindeberg scouting out London store

Swedish fashion retailer J. Lindeberg is on the search for a London location for its first UK store.
JJB Sports sales plunge as Euro 2012 fails to lift trade

Sports retailer JJB Sports has experienced a sharp plunge in sales since its last update in April as the European Football Championships did not deliver the trading uplift expected.
John Lewis cleaners on one-day strike

Cleaning staff at John Lewis are out on strike today over pay, conditions and job cuts.
John Lewis fashion sales rise 9.4%

Fashion sales at John Lewis increased 9.4% last week, with customers seeking “retail therapy” following the continuous bad weather.
Lana Del Rey fronts H&M's retro autumn campaign

American songstress Lana Del Rey is to front H&M’s autumn campaign, which is set to launch later this year.
Levi's sees second quarter profits drop

Levi Strauss & Co has reported a dip in its second quarter profits citing declining business in Asia and tough economic conditions in Europe.
London Fashion Week reveals provisional schedule

Headwear designer Philip Treacy, premium womenswear label Rag & Bone and designer label Preen are new additions to the London Fashion Week schedule, announced today.
Lyst.com receives £3.2m investment

Lyst.com, a website which notifies users when their favourite items are going on Sale, has received £3.2m of investment from a venture capitalist firm.
M&S sees worst trading since 2008

Marks & Spencer has revealed its worst trading since 2008 this morning, with like-for-like general merchandising down 6.8% over the three months to end-June.
M&S withdraws t-shirt after copycat claims

Marks & Spencer has apologised and withdrawn a t-shirt from sale after a designer complained of its “strikingly similar” design to her own products.
Marks & Spencer expected to reveal weak clothing sales

Marks & Spencer is set to reveal its weakest trading performance in three years tomorrow (Tuesday), with clothing expected to be one of its worst hit areas.
Marks & Spencer launches iPhone app

Marks & Spencer has launched its first iPhone app today.
Marks & Spencer: Analyst reaction

As Marks & Spencer sees its worst trading since 2008 with sales of general merchandise down 6.8% Drapers takes a look at what the analysts make of the results and the high-profile departure of Kate Bostock.
MBT's future secured by Spanish deal

Ailing comfort footwear brand MBT may have been saved in the UK following a deal with the company’s Spanish division, according to reports.
Meadowhall launches CollectPlus parcel service

Sheffield’s Meadowhall Shopping Centre has launched a new parcel collection service through a tie up with CollectPlus.
Menswear Spring 13 - The shoot

Sometimes the simplest things are the best – here’s our easy pick from the season’s key categories
Menswear Spring 13 - The shoot

Matchy-matchy or clashy-clashy, for spring 13 everyone’s getting behind print and pattern.
Mulberry founder expands designer shopping village

Mulberry founder Roger Saul is to increase the size of his Somerset-based designer shopping village, Kilver Court, with the opening of five new retail outlets.
Newcastle's Eldon Square seeks planning approval for £22m revamp

Capital Shopping Centres (CSC) has submitted a planning application for the Northumberland Street entrance of Eldon Square, Newcastle marking the next stage in the mall’s refurbishment.
Nicole Farhi appoints creative director

Premium womenswear brand Nicole Farhi has appointed former Aquascutum design director Joanna Sykes as creative director.
Nicole Farhi staff face redundancy

Nicole Farhi is set to make redundancies at its head office as part of a wider restructure of the designer brand, as Francois Steiner is confirmed as permanent chief executive.
Off the record, July 14 2012

Johnstons of Elgin eyed the prize, Coast played host and there was chat at Chester Barrie
On the radar — Truth or Dare by Madonna

Say what you like about Madonna but there’s no doubt she’s a bona fide style icon.
Paige Denim set for expansion after private equity investment

Denim brand Paige Denim is set for a tranche of investment after private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners took a stake in the company.
Paris Haute Couture Autumn 12

Haute couture is in a state of flux – that much was clear at the Paris autumn 12 shows, where new names and fresh aesthetics were juxtaposed by an acute sense of nostalgia.
Paris Menswear: Acne

Workwear was the order of the day at Acne, where creative director Jonny Johansson took steps towards a new sartorial direction for the Scandinavian brand.
Paris Menswear: Dior Homme

It seems Kris Van Assche has got the blues.
Paris Menswear: Dries Van Noten

The Belgian designer proved to be a master of disguise in Paris with a collection that managed to breathe fresh life into camouflage.
Paris Menswear: Givenchy

He has described religion as a “part of [his] DNA”, so it was no surprise that Riccardo Tisci’s dark and decadent collection was inspired by the rich iconography of his Roman Catholic roots.
Paris Menswear: Hermès

At Hermès, Véronique Nichanian brought Parisian chic to another mélange of sleek tailoring and preppy sportswear staples.
Paris Menswear: Kenzo

It’s a jungle out there, or at least so say Humberto Leon and Carol Lim at Kenzo, whose collection took the label back to its signature tropical style.
Paris Menswear: Lanvin

At Lanvin, Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver presented a tough futuristic vision that the latter designer declared was “all about contrasts”.
Paris Menswear: Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton was all at sea, as world traveller Kim Jones presented a collection inspired by sailing, surfing and everything in between.
Paris Menswear: Maison Martin Margiela

What’s cooler than being cool? Ice cold.
Paris Menswear: Mugler

Monochrome was (mostly) the order of the day at Nicola Formichetti’s Mugler show, where the aquatic-inspired ensembles went from purest white to neon coral to summer sea blue.
Paris Menswear: Paul Smith

This season, Paul Smith declared, was all about optimism, which is perhaps why he chose to hark back to the carefree days of his early career with a display of colourful 1960s-influenced tailoring.
Paris Menswear: Raf Simons

In Paris, Raf Simons combined the best of his illustrious past with hints of an exciting future direction at Dior.
Patagonia appoints new managing director

Outdoor lifestyle company Patagonia has appointed Stefan Wahlén to the new role of managing director.
Premium Indicator, July 14 2012

Access Drapers’ unique source of sales information from premium retailers, revealing the best-selling brands, the hottest products and the latest issues to affect premium retailers by clicking on the PDF.
Pressure mounts at M&S after clothing misses the mark

I doubt there were too many surprised faces this week when Marks & Spencer finally confirmed that its executive director of general merchandise Kate Bostock is leaving the business.
Primark sales soar despite poor weather

Value retailer Primark has reported a 16% jump in sales despite the impact of cold and wet weather in April.
Primark wooing German shoppers

Value retailer Primark could prove to be more popular in Germany than the UK, with its Berlin opening last week marking the retailer’s most successful launch yet.
Protesters target Adidas stores

Protesters descended on Adidas stores across the country this week after reports that the company pays some factory workers as little as 34p an hour.
Pure launches kidswear section

Pure London is launching a special section dedicated to childrenswear this year.
Q&A: On the stand with...

Manel Adell, partner and chief executive, Desigual
Q&A: The buyer’s view

Ed Quiligotti, head of menswear at young fashion chain Bank
Qatari investors snap up Valentino

Italian fashion group Valentino has been acquired by Mayhoola for Investments, an investment vehicle backed by an undisclosed private investor group from Qatar.
Rising menswear sales defy retail gloom

Menswear is bucking the dismal retail trend with overall sales in the category rising 3% over the past six months.
Ronen Chen begins UK retail push

Contemporary womenswear brand Ronen Chen is kicking off UK expansion plans with the opening of its second store in Temple Fortune, northwest London, on August 1.
Sales at Asos up by 31% in first quarter

Etail giant Asos saw its retail sales jump 31% to £136.9m in its first quarter to June 30.
Season guide: Earn your stripes

Smart long-sleeved shirts get the spring 13 stripe treatment.
Seasons guide: Back to black

Look to monochrome graphics and painterly illustrations.
Seasons guide: Boating stripes

Blue and white stripes work a nautical resort look for messing about on the river.
Seasons guide: Dive right in

Don’t count on the British weather but be sure to stock up on summer swimwear.
Seasons guide: Dressing down

Formal blazer shapes come in casual fabrications.
Seasons guide: Keep it colourful

From rainbow brights to cool pastels, jeans and chinos catch the eye.
Seasons guide: Keep it simple

Denim is clean and crisp for spring 13 – the darker the better.
Seasons guide: Lay it on thick

Summer knits come ribbed and chunky.
Seasons guide: Let's get technical

Sports-inspired hooded utility jackets are given a technical twist.
Seasons guide: Light as a feather

Outerwear is stripped back for lightweight summer styles
Seasons guide: Pocket heros

Basic T-shirts are updated with contrast pockets.
Seasons guide: Polo players

Polos come bright and bold or covered in patterns.
Seasons guide: Print party

Go for plaids, checks or printed patterns.
Seasons guide: Prints get shirty

Think simple polka dots, florals, paisleys or all-over graphics.
Seasons guide: Short & sweet

Spring 13 is a season of colour, so pick a selection of shades for shorts.
Seasons guide: Summer suits

Look out for cool ways to keep it smart next season.
Seasons guide: Texture twist

Seersucker and nepped wools bring texture to simple sb blazers.
Seasons guide: True blues

A wave of blues washes over shirting for spring, from sky shades to deep indigos.
Seasons guide: White heat

The simple white shirt comes in lightweight linens.
Seasons guides: Lose the sleeves

Quilted or treated, a sleeveless gilet is a safe bet come spring.
Selfridges' finance director heads to Harrods

Selfridges’ group finance director John Edgar is leaving the company after nearly four years in the position.
Speculation over Bostock’s future

Speculation that Kate Bostock could emerge at a major fashion retailer such as Asos or New Look could be wide of the mark, insiders have indicated.
Sports Direct profits soar in "record" year

Sports Direct achieve “record” year with pre-tax profits rising by almost 25% driven by a bumper year for online sales.
Sports Direct takes majority stake in Flannels

Sports Direct has bought a majority stake in premium indie mini-chain Flannels for an undisclosed sum.
Superdry womenswear ups feminine direction for spring 13

Young fashion brand Superdry is ramping up its womenswear offer for spring 13, introducing a more feminine styling and making the “unremarkable” category exciting.
SuperGroup profits slip

SuperGroup, the owner of the Superdry brand and the Cult chain, has reported a 14.7% fall in underlying pre-tax profit, as its announces the axing of its Cult fascia before Christmas.
SuperGroup: Analyst Reaction

As young fashion business SuperGroup reports a 14.7% fall in underlying pre-tax profits as well as announcing that it was to axe its Cult fascia in favour of Superdry stores before Christmas, Drapers takes a look at what city analysts make of the results.
Tesco launches training scheme for school leavers

School-leavers are being targeted as part of a new scheme by Tesco to help young people launch their fashion career.
The Berlin shows, Spring 13

Some of the denim big boys were absent from this season’s Bread & Butter, and things started quietly on the first day.
The Berlin Shows, Spring 13

Top 5 Trends
The Berlin shows: Anerkjendt

Spring 13 is this menswear brand’s second season.
The Berlin Shows: Coast Weber Ahaus

Prints, texture and quirky design details set Italian men’s and women’s wear brand Coast Weber Ahaus’s spring 13 collection apart at Premium.
The Berlin Shows: Iron Fist

Young fashion brand Iron Fist has a busy season ahead with the launch of its men’s footwear range and an athletics line.
The Berlin Shows: Margit Brandt

Japanese poetry, literature and 17th-century art are the key influences in Margit Brandt’s spring 13 collection.
The Berlin Shows: Moods of Norway

With its floral pattern in acid pastel shades, this suit from Moods of Norway’s stand at Bread & Butter is bang on trend.
The Berlin Shows: Munsoo Kwon

Korean menswear brand Munsoo Kwon is yet to enter the UK after its autumn 12 launch, but is looking for UK stockists for spring 13.
The Berlin Shows: Our Legacy

Stockholm-based menswear brand Our Legacy has launched its debut footwear line for spring 13.
The Berlin Shows: Pepe Jeans London

New for spring 13 at Pepe Jeans London, which showed at Bread & Butter, is a selection of denim that uses the sublimation process.
The Berlin Shows: Sitka

Canadian surf and skate brand Sitka, which showed at streetwear show Bright in Berlin, is launching in the UK for spring 13 (it was established in Canada in 2002).
The Berlin Shows: Smith-Wykes

New for spring 13, menswear brand Smith-Wykes, which showed at Seek in Berlin, has created detachable shoulder overlays that can be fixed to jumpers and outerwear.
The Berlin Shows: Villain

Men’s young fashion brand Villain exhibited at Bread & Butter for the first time for spring 13, where it showcased an inviting selection of on-trend styles.
The Berlin Shows: Wemoto

Exhibiting at street and skatewear show Bright, Wemoto launched a capsule collection for spring 13.
The Berlin Shows: Wolsey

British heritage menswear label Wolsey, famous for having dressed explorer Scott of the Antarctic, is combining its mainline with its more premium 1755 label from this season.
This week’s hero - Louis Vuitton’s duffle bag

Pointing the way to the most important products, people, stories and shows in fashion right now.
Tillman considers buying back Allders

Harold Tillman, the former owner of collapsed department store Allders, is mulling a bid for the troubled Croydon store.
Trendwatch - Cagoules

The humble cagoule was the star of the show at Richard Nicoll, Pringle of Scotland and Louis Vuitton this season, where sailing replaced athletics as the sports luxe reference of choice.
Twenty8Twelve pours cash into denim to drive global expansion

Womenswear brand Twenty8Twelve has made a multimillion-pound investment, ramping up its denim collection for spring 13 as part of plans to significantly expand its stockist base.
UKFH not derailed by iCity bid

Organisers of the UK Fashion Hub have said they are committed to the concept and will find another location if the bid to take on the Olympic Park site after the Games is unsuccessful.
Victoria's Secret postpones UK opening

US lingerie giant Victoria’s Secret has reportedly postponed the opening of its two London stores.
VIDEO EDIT: Victoria's Secret & DC Shoes, an unlikely pairing

Miranda Kerr and Ken Block twist and turn in new videos for the brands but in entirely different ways
Whistles rolls out same-day delivery

Whistles has boosted its multichannel credentials with the launch of a same-evening delivery option for orders within Greater London.
Who’s Next Prêt-à-Porter Paris, Spring 13

Bold use of colour, print and pattern stole the show in Paris last week, as key show Who’s Next Prêt-à-Porter kicked off the spring 13 womenswear season.
Who’s Next Prêt-à-Porter Paris, Spring 13

Top 5 Trends
Who’s Next Prêt-à-Porter Paris: American Retro

Celebrating its 10th anniversary this season, American Retro has introduced coloured leather for spring 13, with skinny trousers and shorts in vivid greens and blues.
Who’s Next Prêt-à-Porter Paris: Baum und Pferdgarten

The sporty style continues at Baum und Pferdgarten, where elasticated waist details, quilted and mesh fabrics are used on boxy technical outerwear, tennis-style dresses and jogging trousers.
Who’s Next Prêt-à-Porter Paris: By Zoé

By Zoé scores with a feminine take on sportswear for spring 13, as the sports-luxe trend of last spring is reworked more softly and casually.
Who’s Next Prêt-à-Porter Paris: Charlie Joe

Fresh spearmint tones sit next to soft coral pinks and creams in a feminine collection given a sportswear spin.
Who’s Next Prêt-à-Porter Paris: Essentiel

Belgian brand Essentiel was a favourite of buyers in Paris, with a colourful collection that covers many emerging trends for a wide range of shoppers.
Who’s Next Prêt-à-Porter Paris: Nina Kaufmann

Nina Kaufmann unveiled its first collection at Who’s Next with a great range of girly dresses, jumpsuits and separates.
Who’s Next Prêt-à-Porter Paris: Odd Molly

This season Odd Molly looked to its archives and best-sellers for inspiration, reworking them for spring 13.
Who’s Next Prêt-à-Porter Paris: Orla Kiely

A prim and proper take on nautical defines Orla Kiely next spring, where beautiful fit-and-flare silk dresses come scattered with boat prints, some with demure cap sleeves or contrast collars.
Who’s Next Prêt-à-Porter Paris: Samsøe & Samsøe

Danish brand Samsøe & Samsøe has deliberately tried to appeal to customers outside of its core Scandinavian audience, pushing more of a spring- and summer-focused look.
Wolverine reports marginal sales rise

Footwear group Wolverine World Wide saw a marginal increase in revenue for the second quarter of this year, compared to the same period last year.

Drapers14 July 2012

Job of the week

Drapers
14 July 2012