Drapers
21 July 2012

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‘International expansion brings a series of challenges’

While international expansion is a key strategy for growth for many UK fashion retailers, it brings a whole series of new operational challenges – not least around planning and managing the product.
‘Make sure your brand has a belief and tone of voice’

Disney chief executive officer Michael Eisner once said: “A brand is made up of a thousand small gestures.”
£250m boost for London’s West End

Investment in London’s West End retail centres is being conservatively estimated at £250m over the next three months, as the capital basks in the “long afterglow” of the Olympics.
A fair should not be a Jack of all trade shows

Last week we ran a poll (at Drapersonline.com) asking whether you think there are too many trade shows.
A look back: How luxury brands made an impact online

The news that premium womenswear brand Marc Cain has launched an ecommerce site will no doubt stir up conversations about luxury brands’ slow uptake online. Drapers takes a look at some of the initiatives that prove otherwise.
Acid calls on M&S to sign IP conduct code

Member association Acid (Anti-Copying in Design) has come out in support of homewear designer Rachael Taylor’s legal action against Marks & Spencer.
Another day, another celebrity collaboration

Another day, another celebrity collaboration, and it was the turn of River Island to announce its partnership with pop-star Rihanna on Monday.
Asos denies director departure after share sale

Asos has denied speculation that product director Robert Bready is to leave after he sold his shares in the fashion etailer.
Bank to open first Irish store

Bank, the JD Sports-owned chain, is opening its first standalone store in the Republic of Ireland at Liffey Valley Shopping Centre, Dublin.
Barcelona’s creative hub: The Brandery

Last week I travelled to Barcelona for the seventh edition of urban and contemporary fashion show The Brandery, which is open to the both the trade and the public.
Bread & Butter reveals date change

Streetwear show Bread & Butter is to change the dates for its next edition with the show running from Tuesday to Thursday instead of the usual Wednesday to Friday.
Bunty & Co shop to become Paper Doll

North Yorkshire indie Bunty & Co is rebranding and relocating its retail arm following the success of its clothing own label. From the end of summer, the shop will be known as Paper Doll. The clothing range will retain the Bunty & Co name, with the boutique effectively acting as a stockist.
Cashmere firm inches towards administration

Cashmere manufacturer Dawson International is edging towards administration after it struggled to deal with its burgeoning pension deficit.
Challenging environment hits Puma profits

Puma has said it would reduce the number of products its makes and continue with its store closure operation following a 29.2% drop in profits in the second quarter of the year.
Close-Up preview: Q&A with Mike Stopforth, managing director of Boxfresh

Drapers gives you an exclusive sneak peak of our Close-Up interview with Boxfresh managing director Mike Stopforth, ahead of the full interview in this weekend’s edition.
Coach wins $44m in counterfeiting case

Luxury US accessories brand Coach has won $44m (£28.3m) in a court case against a website selling counterfeit Coach handbags.
Custo trials lower prices with UK sub-brand launch

Premium womenswear label Custo Barcelona is launching its younger sub-brand into the UK, trialling a pricing architecture 40% lower than that available in other territories.
Diesel’s new UnderDenim

Diesel is launching a new line to its intimates range designed to give the feeling of wearing a pair of jeans against your skin, only in underwear form.
Digital Edition: July 21 2012

Womenswear Spring 13 special.
Dr Martens ends sale talks

The owners of footwear brand Dr Martens have ended talks to sell the business, saying that offers failed to reflect a fair value for the brand.
Drapers Debate: Should shops be able to open longer on a Sunday permanently once the games are over?

Drapers’ Victoria Gallagher and Ruth Faulkner discuss the Sunday trading hours.
Dresses lead spring 13 collection for Laurèl

German womenswear brand and retailer Laurèl is significantly increasing its focus on dresses and suiting in its spring 13 collection following a review.
Ebay partners with BFC on Fashion Forward scheme

Etail giant eBay has today underlined its fashion credentials by announcing a new partnership with the British Fashion Council to sponsor its Fashion Forward initiative, which supports emerging British designers.
Eco-friendly shirt brand branching into wholesale

Eco-friendly menswear brand Arthur & Henry is to expand its distribution after scouting out potential stockists at menswear tradeshow Stitch.
Fashion Index

View our fashion data pages to get a barometer of trade in the UK and worldwide.
Firetrap

Firetrap’s spring 13 range is particularly impressive with the brand elevating the level of detail with contrasting fabrics and laundered looks.
Fly London chasing "boutique" customer with new store launch

Young fashion footwear brand Fly London is chasing a more “boutique-style” shopper with the launch of its second standalone UK store in London’s St Christopher’s Place.
French Connection kidswear set to go global

French Connection kidswear is set for international expansion after being licenced out to supplier Flyers Group.
Friend or Faux

Short order menswear brand Friend or Faux is launching a line of knitwear manufactured in the UK.
Gant promotes Tracy Stone to global role

Swedish lifestyle brand Gant has promoted UK and Ireland managing director Tracy Stone to the newly–created role of global sales director.
German retailer Karstadt to cut 2000 jobs

German department store chain Karstadt will cut 2000 jobs over the next two years as part of a move to streamline the business.
Government looks to scap red tape restrictions hindering new businesses

Retailers will be able to open pop up shops more easily under new Government plans to reduce red tape, boosting the high street.
G-Star to roll out women-only stores

Denim brand G-Star has renewed its focus on womenswear, with two new styles for spring 13 and the launch of a dedicated women’s store format.
Henri Lloyd opens concept store reflecting sailing roots

Lifestyle brand Henri Lloyd is launching a new concept store at London’s Westfield Stratford City today (July 19), which reflects its sailing heritage.
IMAGE GALLERY: Activewear chain sets its sights on the UK

Australian activewear retailer Lorna Jane is scouting out London locations as it looks to launch in the UK this year.
IMAGE GALLERY: Lagerfeld pop up launches at Selfridges

Karl Lagerfeld’s latest collections are being launched today at London department store Selfridges.
IMAGE GALLERY: Rag & Bone London store launch

Premium womenswear label Rag & Bone is opening the doors of its long-awaited first London store tomorrow.
IMAGE GALLERY: Selfridges launches pop up Madonna shoe collection

Selfridges London is showcasing Madonna’s new shoe collection with retail prices ranging from £80 to £480.
IMAGE GALLERY: Vauxhall Fashion Scout winners unveiled

Designer Heohwan Simulation has been announced as this year’s winner of the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Merit Award.
IMAGE GALLERY: Victoria's Secret debuts at Westfield Stratford

Victoria’s Secret, the US lingerie retailer, threw open the doors on its first UK store this morning, at Westfield’s Stratford City shopping centre.
Indies initiative boosts July sales so far

Contemporary womenswear indie The Dressing Room says it has already received a 4% boost in sales thanks to special promotions and events arranged for Independent Retailer Month.
Inflation dips to 2.4% in June

Clothing and footwear were major contributors to the latest fall in inflation as it dipped to 2.4% in June from 2.8% in May, according to the Office of National Statistics.
Issa London hires Bulgari UK boss as chief executive

Luxury womenswear designer Issa London has appointed Angelina Ypma as chief executive.
It’s a London thing

Temperley London’s commercial director on the luxury womenswear brand’s spiralling success – and its royal seal of approval.
ITE Moda acquires Jacket Required

Trade show organiser ITE Moda has bought out Jacket Required, and plans to roll out versions of the menswear show internationally.
Jacket Required

Following the success of last season’s show, Drapers was looking forward to the third edition of menswear exhibition Jacket Required – and we were not disappointed.
Jacket Required – a round up

Trade show Jacket Required took place this weekend (June 13-14), tempting the large crowd of buyers in attendance with the big names and brands of tomorrow from the cooler end of the menswear market.
Jacket Required: Anthony & Brown

The debut collection from Anthony & Brown aims to perfect men’s basics, with T-shirts, polos, rugby shirts, shirts, knits, jersey hoodies, shorts and chinos in a commercial palette.
Jacket Required: Blue Collar Worker

British brand Blue Collar Worker is back after a two year hiatus, relaunching for spring 13.
Jacket Required: Common People

The third collection from Common People continues the ethos of great quality British-made pieces.
Jacket Required: Esemplare

There is an off-duty military to Esemplare’s new collection, focusing on casual-luxe pieces in shades of tobacco, navy and ecru.
Jacket Required: Guild of Labour

Working attire updated for the modern man and 1940s wardrobe staples inspired this debut collection.
Jacket Required: La Paz

Portuguese menswear brand La Paz takes its inspiration from the sea, with a coastal seafarer vibe worked in bright summer colours.
Jacket Required: Lee 101

Lee 101 has introduced the new 101 Union B fit, featuring a heritage-style cinched back, printed pocket linings and selvedge-trimmed pocket edges.
Jacket Required: Memento

This first spring collection of Memento blends smart and casual dressing for a relaxed summer look.
Jacket Required: Rascals

Set up in 2008, Danish brand Rascals continues its stylish cyclists look for spring 13.
Jacket Required: Shipley & Halmos

Making its European trade show debut at Jacket Required, this New York brand designs men’s clothing and footwear, as well as furniture, books and art materials.
Jacket Required: SNCL

Smile Now Cry Later, otherwise known as SNCL is a brand new label launching for spring 13, focusing clean and simple menswear items given an interesting twist.
Jacket Required: Soulland

Another Danish brand that shone at Jacket Required, Soulland’s spring 13 collection worked the season’s print and pattern trend in a way fitting to this cool Scandinavian brand.
Jacket Required: Tom & Hawk

If you are looking for colourful prints, look no further than Tom & Hawk.
Jacket Required: Vanishing Elephant

One brand that really backed the spring 13 trend for print and pattern is Australia’s Vanishing Elephant.
Jacket Required: William Fox & Sons

Showing its first full collection for spring 13, this colourful stand grabbed Drapers’ attention.
Jimmy Choo announces new chief exec

Luxury footwear brand Jimmy Choo has named Pierre Denis as its new chief executive, succeeding former chief executive Joshua Schulman, who left the business at the beginning of the year.
JJB Sports seeks urgent funding as sales plummet

Embattled sports retailer JJB Sports said it needs funding more quickly than expected to tackle the tough trading conditions and is in discussions with its “strategic partners” about raising capital to fund its turnaround.
John Lewis to be Leeds anchor store

John Lewis is set to anchor the Eastgate Quarter in Leeds, which is due to open in 2016.
Jonathan Saunders designs London Fashion Week branding

The British Fashion Council (BFC) has teamed up with designer Jonathan Saunders to produce the branding for next season’s London Fashion Week.
Karl Lagerfeld hosts Selfridges launch

Designer Karl Lagerfeld launched his Selfridges pop-up shop in London last night with legions of fans turning up to mark the occasion.
Kenzo's got the X Factor

From kicks collaborations to its new autumn campaign, there’s a good feeling about the Japanese brand
Lee Jeans leap onto leopard

Denim brand Lee Jeans is releasing a range of short order printed denim styles. Bang on trend, the leopard pattern finish will cover its bestselling women’s fit, the Scarlett (a skinny, mid-rise cropped silhouette), in grey, blue and red.
London Textile Fair: a preview

As trade show season is in full swing, today is the first day of the London Textile Fair, one of London’s leading textile exhibitions.
Luke unveils autumn 12 campaign

Men’s young fashion brand Luke has enlisted British actor Stephen Graham to front its autumn 12 campaign.
M&S appoints new Per Una design chief

Marks & Spencer has drafted in design veteran Carole Boyes-Weston as head of design for womenswear brands Per Una and Limited Collection.
M&S design chief Helen Low returns to Asda

Marks & Spencer buying and design director Helen Low is joining Asda as general manager for design at George, according to reports.
Mainstream Indicator, July 21 2012

Access Drapers’ unique source of sales information from mainstream retailers, revealing the best-selling brands, the hottest products and the latest issues to affect mainstream by clicking on the PDF.
Marc Cain launches UK ecommerce site

Premium womenswear brand Marc Cain has today launched an e-commerce site for shoppers in the UK.
Marks & Spencer opens in Kazakhstan

Marks & Spencer has opened a store in Kazakhstan.
Marks & Spencer vs Next, Oxford Street

Last week, Marks & Spencer revealed that like-for-like sales of general merchandise in the UK fell 6.8% in the first quarter.
Max Mara Group opens Hong Kong flagship

Italian clothing group Max Mara Group is ramping up its presence in China with the launch of a new flagship in Hong Kong.
Meet the boss - Andy Rubin

Pentland Brands’ chief executive on being recognised as one of the UK’s best employers.
Mothercare Q1 like-for-like sales fall 6.7%

Mothercare has reported a 6.7% drop in its UK like-for-like sales in its first quarter.
Next round of Portas Pilots to be revealed tomorrow

The second round of Portas Pilots will be announced tomorrow, adding to the initial 12 towns selected to trial measures put forward by retail expert Mary Portas.
Off the record, July 21 2012

At the Berlin shows, Guess celebrated 30 years, Barbour opened up and Capsule threw a BBQ.
Olympics helps John Lewis sales jump 17.3%

The final week of clearance and the upcoming Olympics both helped John Lewis achieve a 17.3% rise in sales last week.
One to watch — Industry of All Nations

The L.A. brand with Argentinian heart’s sustainable but style-led range has got all the credentials for a successful spring 13 season.
O'Neill outsources footwear licence

Boardsport brand O’Neill has signed a European licensing deal with distributor Bos Group, with the first products to go to market in autumn 13.
Paris Fashion Week Street Style in motion

A fashionable flip-book of the week’s best looks from photographer Liam Goslett
PICTURE GALLERY: Indie chain Anna opens new store

Independent chain Anna has opened a new store in Woodbridge.
Portas Pilots Part Two: A closer look

The second round of Portas Pilots was announced yesterday with 15 towns being given a share of a £1.5m pot to help rejuvenate their high streets. Drapers takes a closer look at which towns have been chosen and what their Town Teams plan to do with the money.
Primark looks to open Milton Keynes flagship

Primark is set to open a 90,000 sq ft flagship store in Milton Keynes.
Prints and graphic tees rule Jacket Required and Stitch

Men’s young fashion brands are backing prints, graphic T-shirts and functional outerwear for spring 13, with labels at London shows Stitch and Jacket Required setting the tone for the season.
Ralph Lauren CFO departs

Ralph Lauren, the premium lifestyle brand and retailer, has announced the departure of senior vice president and chief financial officer, Tracey Travis. She will leave on July 30.
Republic launches three new womenswear brands amid major growth strategy

Republic is making a series of new hires, rolling out three new own-brands and is set to launch its first international presence in Germany as it looks to return to growth.
Retail sales edge up 0.1% in June

The Diamond Jubilee failed to give retailers a significant boost in June as UK retail sales volumes increased by just 0.1% last month compared to May.
Rihanna to design capsule collection for River Island

Pop star Rihanna is designing an exclusive clothing collection for River Island, which will launch as part of the retailer’s spring 13 collection.
Robert Graham expands UK footprint with shirt line

US-based premium menswear brand Robert Graham is growing its UK presence with the launch of its shirting collection to the market.
Roger Saul

The Mulberry founder tells Ruth Faulkner about life after the label and his plans for designer outlet Kilver Court.
Scoop

The fourth edition of premium womenswear show Scoop saw more than 200 directional fashion, accessories, jewellery and lifestyle labels from the UK and Europe converge on the Saatchi Gallery to showcase their spring 13 collections to buyers.
Seasons guide: Box clever

A boxy silhouette is seen on loose summery dresses.
Seasons guide: Give it some zest

Whether bright or burnt, bold shades of orange catch the eye.
Seasons guide: Going dotty

The perennial polka dot crops up again – get spotty this spring.
Seasons guide: Knitting pretty

Knits get a summery twist with placement or all-over intarsia patterns.
Seasons guide: Let loose

Open weaves and loose knits are ideal for summer.
Seasons guide: Maxed out

Beach-ready and casual or evening appropriate, the maxi-length dress returns.
Seasons guide: Mix metals

A sprinkle of silver and gold gives a sparkling twist to summer staples.
Seasons guide: Pleats please

Smartly tailored shorts come with neat pleat fronts.
Seasons guide: Pretty prints

Whether it’s florals, spots or dotty dogs, dresses come covered in prints for spring 13.
Seasons guide: Prim & printed

Demure fit-and-flare dresses get the print treatment too.
Seasons guide: Print works

Simple blouses are given a lift with a variety of patterns.
Seasons guide: Rainbow shades

When it comes to trousers and jeans, pick any colour you like.
Seasons guide: Simply sparkles

Sequins and glitter bring some glamour to eveningwear.
Seasons guide: Spots & Stripes

Whether short or long sleeved, shirts come with polka-dot patterns or candy stripes.
Seasons guide: Striped knits

Earn your stripes from nautical navy to colourful blocks.
Seasons guide: The bold & the beautiful

Pattern and printed trousers are back for another season – the bolder the better.
Second set of Portas Pilots revealed

Ashford, Braintree, Loughborough and Rotherham are among the second tranche of towns selected for the Portas Pilot treatment.
Sports duo accused of indie sector ‘takeover’

Sports Direct and JD Sports Fashion are gaining a stranglehold on the indie sector through acquisitions that could choke long-term growth, indies and brands have warned.
Stella McCartney to launch affordable lingerie

Premium womenswear designer Stella McCartney is to launch a range of everyday lingerie, which will be available in stores from August.
SuperGroup branches out as it takes lessons from Ralph Lauren

SuperGroup plans to move into new categories including make-up as it plans to add “value to the brand”.
SuperGroup strives to restore its super powers

The young fashion business aims to show it is back on track following a series of self-inflicted errors.
SuperTrash to open first UK store in London

Contemporary womenswear brand SuperTrash will open its first UK store this autumn in London’s Mayfair.
Swims signs agent to buoy UK sales

Norwegian premium footwear brand Swims has signed 2Squared Agency as its sole UK agent and distributor for spring 13. The move comes as it looks to build on its list of premium stockists as well as introducing a women’s footwear offering to the UK.
The Brandery defies the gloom with a 63% surge in visitor numbers

The spring 13 edition of Barcelona-based contemporary and urban fashion show The Brandery has defied the gloom with 63% soar in visitor numbers, after tackling tough trading conditions head-on by flying out key international buyers.
The Brandery: D’Repente Lola

Established just last year, Spanish womenswear brand D’Repente Lola’s spring 13 collection is inspired by Andalucia, with ocean waves and sporting details seen throughout.
The Brandery: Eighth Sin

Denim is the focus at Italian womenswear brand Eighth Sin, which sits alongside brands such as Guess and Miss Sixty.
The Brandery: Goubi

For spring 13, French brand Goubi sticks with a relaxed, pared-down aesthetic putting a focus on comfort.
The Brandery: Hanita

Italian womenswear brand Hanita showed at The Brandery for the first time as part of an international push that has also seen it exhibit at Who’s Next in Paris and take on agents in China and Russia.
The Brandery: Hero Seven

After purchasing exclusive rights to a number of images of Hollywood legend Steve McQueen, French brand Hero Seven has emblazoned his likeness across a range of T-shirts.
The Brandery: Paco Roca

Tailors Cristina and Javier Roca are known for their Paco Roca brand’s sharp suiting, and they don’t disappoint for spring 13.
The Brandery: Susan Escribano

This Spanish womenswear brand showcased its Route 66 range at The Brandery.
The Brandery: Veneno En La Piel

Spanish womenswear brand Veneno en la Piel showcased the affordable occasionwear for which it is known.
This week’s hero - Asos Black x Puma

Pointing the way to the most important products, people, stories and shows in fashion right now.
TPG makes fresh approach for Billabong

Private equity backer TPG Capital has made a fresh approach to acquire beleaguered Australian surfwear brand Billabong.
Trendwatch - Tone-on-tone taupe

Exhibited by the attendees at the latest round of menswear shows in Milan, the matchy matchy and co-ordinated shades of taupe, beige and tan reinforce the colour’s importance this spring and next.
Very launches festival delivery service

Shop Direct-owned Very has launched a delivery service at Virgin Media’s V festival, which it claims is a world first for a music event.
VIDEO: Comptoir des Cotonniers reveals new ad campaign

French womenswear retailer Comptoir des Cotonniers has abandoned its previous advertising campaign in favour of a new concept campaign for autumn 12 focusing on the “attitude” of its shoppers.
Vivienne Westwood back in the black

Vivienne Westwood has returned to profit after reporting a loss last year as a result of settling a tax bill.
Westfield Bradford boosted by M&S, Next deals

Westfield’s long-awaited Bradford development has taken a step closer to its creation, with retailers Marks & Spencer and Next signing up for a store apiece.
Women’s absence from boardrooms is a fashion faux pas

I had two meetings last week with two very senior and powerful women within the fashion sector and at both meetings the issue of male domination within the industry’s boardrooms reared its head.
Womenswear Spring 13 - The shoot

For all Spring 13’s punchy prints and colourful collections, sometimes the most peaceful palettes are the most powerful.
Womenswear Spring 13 - The shoot

This spring it’s a jungle out there, with print, pattern and colour the trends tearing up trees this season.

Drapers21 July 2012

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Drapers
21 July 2012