Drapers
Stephen Spear
Steve is the projects editor at Drapers, which means he works with the fashion and features team. He plans, writes and edits features and supplements and records and edits videos. In a former life, he was an art journalist.
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Grace Woodward
16 December 2011
The X Factor stylist tells Steve Spear about her plans for TV fashion stardom and ‘more bonkers outfits’ – not including helmets -
Sunspel
7 October 2011
British heritage brand Sunspel has grown from its underwear roots to a fully-fledged premium brand. -
Dean Batty
23 September 2011
A near-death experience at sea inspired the industry veteran to launch his own menswear brand, Cro’Jack. He tells Stephen Spear why -
Baum und Pferdgarten
16 September 2011
The brand’s minimal but eye-catching look will further stoke the UK’s passion for Danish womenswear. -
Alice Stone
9 September 2011
The founder of scarf label Lily and Lionel tells Stephen Spear why the time is right for it to move into men’s styles and handbags -
Melinda Gloss
9 September 2011
Set up by two French philosophy students, this luxury menswear brand majors in studied cool. -
Guy West
26 August 2011
The co-founder of Jeffery-West tells Stephen Spear why his men’s footwear brand stands out amid today’s boring, middle-of-the road fashion. -
Mr Hare
26 August 2011
Marc Hare’s determinedly upscale but simple men’s shoes are attracting serious attention. -
Andrew parfitt
19 August 2011
The agent speaks to Stephen Spear about his talent for spotting the most stylish menswear brands before anyone else -
Paula Fitzpatrick
12 August 2011
The owner of London indie Love KR tells Stephen Spear whether she has any regrets about moving from wholesale into retailing. -
Aslaug Magnusdottir
5 August 2011
The co-founder of luxury etailer Moda Operandi tells Stephen Spear why she’s proud to be called fashion’s fairy godmother -
Moda Footwear
27 February 2010
Autumn 10 -
Armour Embellishment
20 February 2010
Autumn 10 -
Boho Lace
20 February 2010
Autumn 10 -
Chunky Knits
20 February 2010
Autumn 10 -
Dance Pants
20 February 2010
Autumn 10 -
Lightweight Velvet
20 February 2010
Autumn 10 -
Designer directions Autumn 10
13 February 2010
Although grey continued to dominate the colour palette on the autumn 10 menswear catwalks in Milan and Paris, camel emerged as a new classic while contrast sleeves and track pants were fresh trends. -
Suwha
6 February 2010
After building its reputation on the back of outerwear, the classic womenswear brand has responded to feedback from buyers to offer a complete collection -
Freesoul
30 January 2010
A change of ownership has given the Italian brand the confidence to look beyond its denim heritage -
Milan Fashion Week: Prada, Alexander McQueen, Bottega Veneta
19 January 2010
Monday’s Milan catwalks saw more diverse influences drive brands’ collections but just as was seen from the weekend shows, there was a move towards a more casual feel. -
Milan Fashion Week: Burberry Prorsum, Dolce & Gabbana, Emporio Armani
18 January 2010
The autumn 10 catwalk season got under way in Milan this weekend with the men’s collections from heavy hitters including Burberry Prorsum and Dolce & Gabbana exhibiting a relaxed and casual handwriting. -
Brandwatch: Heritage Research
16 January 2010
Inspired by vintage detailing, the new venture from the Trainerspotter team is distinct and desirable -
Cro’Jack eyes premium indies with debut range
16 January 2010
British menswear brand Cro’Jack has launched for autumn 10, with its sights set on securing 20 to 30 premium UK indie stockists and plotting an assault on the export market. -
Pitti Uomo preview
9 January 2010
With the 77th edition of the mainstream menswear fair on the horizon, prepare for your trip to Florence by reading up on some of the top brands and debutants on show. -
Simon Smith
9 January 2010
Having invested in and taken the helm at streetwear brand Fly53, Simon Smith is focusing all his efforts on growth, and is giving the business the structure it needs to make it happen -
Gloverall
19 December 2009
The resurgence of British heritage brands has put this duffle coat specialist back in the spotlight. -
Elusive strikes deal to roll out Star in the Hood
28 November 2009
Streetwear brand Star in the Hood, which is part owned by urban music artist Tinchy Stryder, has struck a deal with agency Elusive Distribution to handle its UK sales. -
Dagmar
21 November 2009
UK buyers have been impressed by this Swedish womenswear brand’s sexy yet versatile designs. -
Pitti Uomo to revamp spring 10 edition
21 November 2009
Italian mainstream menswear show Pitti Uomo will be given a facelift in time for its spring 10 edition in a bid to boost its profile on the trade show circuit. -
FitFlop
14 November 2009
Its mix of science and style has struck a chord with comfort footwear shoppers and now the leg-toning brand is expanding its collection. -
New boardsports show Hub replaces Surf Shop
14 November 2009
Brintex, organiser of now-defunct UK boardsports show Surf Shop, is to launch a new event called Hub in 2010 to replace the previous show. -
Darran & Kam Harris
7 November 2009
The husband and wife team behind agency Brand National tell Stephen Spear about striking a balance between labels and retailers -
New global boss plots Evisu brand overhaul
7 November 2009
Japanese premium denim brand Evisu is to undergo a revamp for autumn 10, according to new global chief executive Scott Morrison. -
Pan Philippou to head up Ben Sherman
3 November 2009
Pan Philippou, the former chief executive of World Design & Trade (WDT), will become chief executive of Ben Sherman in January when Miles Gray retires. -
Desigual
24 October 2009
With its in-your-face embellishment, the Spanish brand is one of fashion’s most instantly identifiable. -
Sequins and shoulders to dazzle for Christmas
24 October 2009
Womenswear indies are backing an overload of sequins to put the sparkle into sales this Christmas. -
Marco Mavilla
10 October 2009
The energetic ToyWatch founder and designer met Stephen Spear at the opening of its first UK store on London’s Regent Street. -
Without Prejudice
03 October 2009
Although only three years old, menswear brand Without Prejudice has quickly won over UK indies. -
John Richmond homes in on domestic market
26 September 2009
UK designer brand John Richmond is relaunching in the UK for spring 10 after six years without wholesale representation in its home territory. -
Donald Finlay
12 September 2009
With a sparkling new showroom facility and a portfolio of brands including Remus Uomo, Irish menswear company Douglas & Grahame’s commercial director is bullish about growth. -
Italy’s Antony Morato targets premium stores
12 September 2009
Italian menswear brand Antony Morato is launching in the UK with an in-season collection this autumn. It has already sold to independent accounts including Psyche in Middlesbrough, Flannels, Cruise and Tessuti in Chester and is looking to secure more premium-level stockists. -
Richard Anderson
12 September 2009
Life on Savile Row has inspired the tailor to write his memoirs. Stephen Spear hears about his innocuous start and meteoric rise. -
Premium overhaul for The Smiley Company
05 September 2009
The Smiley Company, which owns the iconic smiley face trademark that was popular in the 1970s and again in the early 1990s, is streamlining its fashion brands in a bid to drive its credentials as a premium branded business. -
Pretty Green
05 September 2009
Inspired by The Jam and devised by Liam Gallagher, menswear label Pretty Green is steeped in rock heritage. -
Hunter
29 August 2009
With a new managing director, the iconic Wellington boot brand is majoring on innovation for spring 10 -
Ichi unveils expanded denim offer for spring
15 August 2009
Danish women’s young fashion brand Ichi is ramping up its denim offer for spring 10. The brand, which has delivered jeans for the past three years, launched a much-expanded denim range at trade show Pure London last week, with a lower entry-price point and up to 40 styles. -
Darling
8 August 2009
After wooing buyers at Pure London, the womenswear brand has more to offer going into its second year -
New youthful direction for Gant’s Rugger line
8 August 2009
Lifestyle brand Gant has repositioned its casual men’s line Rugger for spring 10 to give it a younger feel and broaden its appeal to a younger audience. -
Fenchurch
1 August 2009
From its skate origins to a global player, the decade-old brand remains steeped in the London street scene -
Bonnie Olesen
25 July 2009
Brand house IC Companys’ UK and RoI operations manager explains to Stephen Spear what makes Danish fashion so distinctive -
Tailoring brands keep suits slim
18 July 2009
Commercial menswear brands in the UK are sticking to a slimmed-down tailoring silhouette for spring 10, despite the emergence of a looser and less structured look at trade show Pitti Uomo in Florence and the men’s fashion weeks in Milan and Paris. -
Jeremy Hackett
17 July 2009
From football fans to Prince William, the founder of classic menswear brand Hackett has set the style agenda for a diverse mix of customers and is now an international phenomenon -
Walk The Dogfish, Norwich
11 July 2009
East Anglian shoppers can step out in style thanks to the Dogfish business’s slick new footwear store -
Hummel
4 July 2009
It’s already a top scorer with football fans, but with a new kidswear range the Danish brand is extending its reach beyond the pitch -
Masters of invention
4 July 2009
Three garment technology firms explain how their innovations are helping brands and retailers to revolutionise their ranges and keep shoppers spending -
Paris Men's Fashion Week: trend round-up
30 June 2009
The Paris menswear catwalks, as ever, lightened the sartorial load that was expressed in Milan last week. -
Paris Men's Fashion Week: Givenchy references Michael Jackson
29 June 2009
With poignant timeliness Givenchy quoted Michael Jackson as an influence over its spring 10 menswear collection. The fashion house had been charged with creating Jackson’s costume for this summer’s world tour. -
Ross McPhie
27 June 2009
Berghaus’s head of design tells Stephen Spear how hanging with the hip-hop set influenced his creations for the snowboarding posse -
Paris Men's Fashion Week: eccentric styling
26 June 2009
Paris Men’s Fashion Week has already thrown up more eccentric fashion than Milan could muster in a millennium. -
Paris Men's Fashion Week: Day one
25 June 2009
Yves Saint Laurent opened the Parisian runways with a confirmation of some of Milan’s key looks. -
Milan Men's Fashion Week: spring 10 trend round-up
24 June 2009
The Milan men’s catwalks will come to a close today and there are already some inescapable conclusions to be drawn in terms of spring 10 menswear trends. -
Milan Men's Fashion Week: a grey day
23 June 2009
While the men’s catwalks in Milan opened with some flashes of colour at Gucci and Bottega Veneta, yesterday’s shows saw the Italian capital return in earnest to grey, the shade that looks set to continue to define men’s tailoring for at least another season. -
Milan Men's Fashion Week: back from black
22 June 2009
The men’s catwalks in Milan got under way this weekend with a more positive verve than last season’s black-heavy credit-crunched looks. -
Kate Cooper to replace Rouge at Michael H
20 June 2009
Irish brand house Michael H is to relaunch the Kate Cooper label at Pure London in August to replace occasionwear brand Rouge. -
Gelco
6 June 2009
Colourful separates and a bullish strategy have put a spring in the step of the womenswear brand -
Derrick Campbell
5 June 2009
Extending Lyle & Scott’s reach beyond that of retired bankers on the golf course sparked a menswear phenomenon, but the managing director behind the idea is teeing up to drive the brand even further -
Mary Portas unveils charity shop at Westfield London
4 June 2009
Retail guru Mary Portas opened the doors to her Living & Giving charity shop this morning at shopping centre Westfield London. -
Crunch time for shoppers
23 May 2009
Just how have fashion shoppers been crunched in the recession and what are they going to do next? Drapers provides the answers -
KJ's Laundry, London
16 May 2009
Its chic New York vibe has won it fans aplenty, but talk of its celebrity following won’t wash with KJ’s Laundry. -
Nicolas Georgiou
16 May 2009
The Sub-Couture label designer tells Stephen Spear why skipping college and knocking on doors gave him the perfect education -
Autumn 09’s key styles identified by Doneger
9 May 2009
Womenswear retailers must stock key commercial pieces if they are to make the most of the autumn 09 season and ride out the recession, according to David Wolfe, creative director of New York trend agency The Doneger Group. -
DrunknMunky
21 March 2009
Driven by a kung fu mindset, the streetwear brand has rapidly fought its way up indies’ buying lists -
Paris Fashion Week: new takes on tailoring
10 March 2009
After a week characterised by a see-saw of sexy silhouettes and prim retro-flavoured war-time looks, yesterday underlined the Paris catwalks’ other key story – new takes on tailoring. -
The Exhibition at LFW
7 March 2009
From debutantes to stalwart brands, the exhibition at this season’s LFW served up a raft of commercial boutique-friendly collections -
Paris textiles Spring 10
28 February 2009
Mills may be steeling themselves for tough times but the exhibitors at Premiere Vision and Texworld in Paris are finding the silver lining -
Mills take few risks at Première Vision
19 February 2009
The spring 2010 textile trends presented at Première Vision in Paris earlier this month used a risk-averse palette to signal a more business-like womenswear season. -
Pure Autumn 09
14 February 2009
Pure this week presented a more commercially led parade of womenswear in the face of the more directional styles exhibited at Who’s Next in Paris and Copenhagen Fashion Week. -
Dave Moreton
7 February 2009
After 120 years in business, Lee Jeans’ trend credentials are at an all-time high. Its UK and RoI commercial director now wants retail partners to help spread the word -
Original Penguin, London
7 February 2009
The preppy brand’s signature quirkiness is echoed in the design of its first UK standalone store -
Paris Men's Fashion Week: Grey Days
26 January 2009
After grey tailoring dominated the Milan men’s catwalks, it remained an important influence in Paris last week, appearing on the runways of Jean Paul Gaultier, Yohji Yamamoto, Gaspard Yurkievich and Dries Van Noten. -
Italian labels to hit UK
24 January 2009
New London fashion agent Molineux has opened a showroom in Islington, north London, to exhibit lifestyle collections from Italian brands Peuterey and Dekker. -
Pitti Uomo opens in cautious mood
13 January 2009
Pitti Uomo opened in Florence this morning, but exhibitors were generally downbeat about business prospects at the menswear show. -
Women’s line for Original Penguin
10 December 2008
Original Penguin, the US lifestyle brand owned by the Perry Ellis group, is launching its first full womenswear collection for autumn 09. -
Blake Krueger
13 November 2008
Everything is done on a huge scale at Wolverine World Wide, and chief executive and president Blake Krueger’s ambitions for the footwear group are no different. -
Camper
7 November 2008
For this family-owned Majorcan footwear brand, fashion is all about standing on your own two feet. -
Ermenegildo Zegna, London
3 November 2008
The Italian menswear brand has redefined its recipe for pure luxury with more light, space and room to relax. -
Peter Ring-Lefevre
20 October 2008
The creative director of Texprint tells Stephen Spear about a life of scouring fashion for trends and unearthing gifted talents. -
Paris textiles Autumn/Winter 09
4 October 2008
While prints move beyond the floral and fabric constructions get more technical, prices remain an issue for designer and buyers -
Scott Schuman
3 October 2008
The creator of influential blog The Sartorialist tells Stephen Spear why he spends his life walking the streets of the world’s fashion capitals. -
Paris Fashion Week blog: Balenciaga barmy
30 September 2008
1960s air stewardesses met with a self consciously futuristic slant at Balenciaga's spring 09 show in Paris yesterday. -
Mills play safe for autumn 09
30 September 2008
Prospects of tough trading have forced mills to respond with a raft of commercial offerings for autumn 09, according to the trends on show at last week's Milano Unica textiles fair in Italy. -
Men’s footwear opts for casual direction
2 September 2008
Men’s footwear brands are strengthening their casual element for spring 09 as designers introduce styles that work with the burgeoning smart casual look for men. -
Hudson adds women’s line
2 September 2008
Directional men’s footwear brand Hudson has launched its debut women’s range for spring 09 with a small selection of trend-led styles. -
Fly53
27 August 2008
Having carved a niche as the doyen of underground cool, the streetwear brand’s popularity is soaring. -
Neurotica slays dragons for cash
11 August 2008
Contemporary womenswear brand Neurotica has developed a diffusion range and is looking for new accounts following brand owner and designer Victoria McGrane’s appearance on BBC TV show Dragon’s Den. -
Psycho Cowboy
2 August 2008
The Danish streetwear brand is back in the saddle and lassoing UK stockists with a sophisticated look. -
Argentina’s La Martina brings polo styling to UK
22 July 2008
Argentinian casualwear brand La Martina is plotting a major UK push for spring 09. -
Coes, Ipswich
19 July 2008
The landmark store is getting a contemporary refit, but its old-fashioned approach to customer service will remain. -
Brands play it safe for spring
17 July 2008
Spring 09 suiting trends continue to embrace the grey shades that have dominated the past three seasons, with retailers and suppliers saying their customers are not prepared to move on too quickly from styles they have only just begun to understand. -
Paris menswear
12 July 2008
Whether soft or shiny, the romantic mood dominated the men’s catwalks in Paris -
Top UK exporters win UKFE prizes
14 June 2008
London womenswear brand Orla Kiely and designer Joseph Ettedgui, founder of premium women’s fashion brand and retailer Joseph, scooped the top gongs at last week’s 2008 UK Fashion Export (UKFE) Awards. -
Noir adds Bllack diffusion range
7 June 2008
Ethical designer womenswear brand Noir is releasing a more competitively priced diffusion line to broaden its stockist base and widen its appeal. -
Oliver Spencer, London
7 June 2008
The menswear designer’s UK retail debut displays an obsessive attention to detail in keeping with its geek chic style. -
Noir adds Bllack diffusion range
3 June 2008
Ethical womenswear brand Noir is introducing a more accessible diffusion line to broaden its stockist base and its appeal. -
Barbour team is set lifestyle goal
21 May 2008
Heritage outerwear brand Barbour has strengthened its design team with the signing of five new members as part of an effort to grow its credentials as a lifestyle brand. -
Jaeger see sales rise 16% year-on-year
15 May 2008
Jaeger saw sales rise by 16% for the year to February 23, 2008 thanks to a mix of wholesale growth, shop openings, refits and international expansion according to the retailer and the retailer has pledged more of the same for the next year. -
Fullcircle to launch cruise collection
12 May 2008
Contemporary brand Fullcircle is launching its first cruise collection this month for delivery in October. -
Start, London
10 May 2008
Savile Row styling with stacks of personality makes Start’s third store the perfect suit shop for a younger generation. -
Marcona brand changes hands
3 May 2008
Textiles group Miro Radici has acquired German womenswear brand Marcona with a complete buyout of all its shares. -
Marcona brand changes hands
1 May 2008
Textiles group Miro Radici has acquired German womenswear brand Marcona with a complete buyout of all its shares. -
Gant repositions for younger look
26 April 2008
Gant is rebranding its collections to give the Swedish lifestyle brand a more fashion-forward edge. -
Bamboo A
26 April 2008
Although just four seasons old, trainer and clothing brand Bamboo A is growing fast by concentrating on the details. -
Patagonia
10 April 2008
Imitation leaves a sour taste in most brands’ mouths, but for Patagonia it really is the sincerest form of flattery. -
Lee Cooper
29 March 2008
The original UK denim brand hits a hundred this year, with centennial plans creating a buzz around its repositioning. -
Frank Bird, Yorkshire
26 March 2008
Pundits say trading is tough, but Drapers’ menswear retailer of the year has seen worse and has come out smiling. -
Sarah Coggles, York
10 March 2008
In a tough year for trading, one shop scored a hat trick of Drapers Awards. So what makes this York indie so special? -
Howies, London
9 March 2008
Activewear brand Howies was determined not to compromise its ethical intentions in its first retail concept. -
Kim Jones
8 March 2008
Designer Kim Jones has developed a reputation as king of modernist casualwear. But as the newly appointed creative director at Alfred Dunhill, he insists there’s a lot more to him than meets the eye. -
Blog: A competitor for grey - finally
23 January 2008
How wonderful! What joy! Finally, after the men’s catwalks in Milan and Paris, it is with great happiness I can report that grey has a serious contender in the world of menswear. -
Blog: Why do people enter retail?
9 January 2008
What inspires someone to get into retail in the first place? The question is prompted by this week’s Indicator survey of kidswear retailers (see Drapers January 12). -
Blog: Bah! Humbug…
21 December 2007
According to one of the local freesheets, 83% of Londoners switched their brains off for Christmas at the end of last week. What? If only! -
Blog: Cleaning up the act
7 December 2007
Having previewed the young menswear on the high street for spring 08, I can confirm that the smartening up is continuing with clean, neat tailoring infiltrating the likes of New Look, River Island and Next among others. -
Uniqlo, London
17 November 2007
Japanese casualwear chain Uniqlo hopes its new Oxford Street flagship store will boost the brand and double UK sales. -
Blog: Any advice, please?
10 November 2007
As a clothing retailer, do you feel that you are expected to be able to advise your customers on the how, why, when and where of dressing? -
Christmas presence
10 November 2007
Drapers quizzes four industry experts to find out how retailers can best capitalise on this year’s Christmas trading period -
Blog: Racing to be fashion’s fastest
3 November 2007
“Hey, I like your look today,” I said to a female colleague yesterday. “Oh, ta,” she said. “Primark,” she offered in a conspiratorial whisper. -
High street Hit or Miss: Birmingham
27 October 2007
We evaluate the autumn menswear offer on the high streets and shopping centres of the UK’s second largest city -
Blog: COO blimey
20 October 2007
The COO of clothing – that’s country of origin to you and me – apparently has a “mixed and inconclusive” effect on consumers. Translation from the academic: shoppers don’t care where products come from. -
Who tells you what to do?
20 October 2007
This is one for the indie retailers out there. How much do the brands really dictate to you about what you buy? This is one of the questions that refuse to go away and I have been receiving different answers to this for years now. -
Next reveals radical new shopfit
2 June 2007
Next has slashed styles by 15% at its new store in Bluewater, in an effort to declutter the shopfloor and emphasise its more youthful, aspirational styling. -
Smart money
2 June 2007
As the curtains rise on Tom Ford's store in New York, we look at the potential of menswear's latest luxe line -
Forever young
26 May 2007
Pringle creative director Clare Waight Keller explains how the brand's renamed 1815 label mixes youth with sophistication -
Peak practice
12 May 2007
US cap brand New Era has established itself as the headgear of choice for young UK urbanites, and aims to capitalise on this popularity with a London store -
Superdry plans new store duo
17 March 2007
UK young fashion brand Superdry, owned by mini chain Cult Clothing, is opening a new London store and converting one of its parent retailer's stores to its fascia. -
Faith in Fabric
24 February 2007
An upbeat mood was felt by most - if not all - in the Italian textiles trade at Milano Unica, with increased visitor numbers giving the event an added gloss -
Paris
10 February 2007
Playful Paris trends stayed in tune with Milan and rubber-stamped the key looks for autumn 07


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