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News
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Editor’s Comment: Embrace the speed of change
The pace of change has never been this fast, yet it will never be this slow again. I have lost count of how many times I have heard this expression used in relation to fashion retail in 2019.
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Entries are now open for the Drapers Digital Awards, part of the Digital Festival 2020. We have 15 categories up for grabs, so make sure you enter your business now!
Start your entry today
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Retail
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Amazon ups the ante on fashion
John Boumphrey, vice-president of Amazon Fashion Europe, plans to make the ecommerce giant “customers’ most-loved fashion destination”
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Entries are now open for the Drapers Footwear Awards 2020. We have 18 exciting categories up for grabs, so make sure you enter your business now!
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Product & Trade Shows
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Wesley Harriott's 'otherworldly strength' in womenswear
When London designer Ricky Wesley Harriott launched his womenswear brand in 2016, he had no idea that US singer Lady Gaga would be sporting Wesley Harriott designs just one year later.
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Business Operations
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Drapers Hit or Miss: fashion rental
As the rental fashion trends begins to take off, Drapers road tests four platforms offering consumers the chance to hire their wardrobes.
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Entries are now open for the Drapers Digital Awards, part of the Digital Festival 2020. We have 15 categories up for grabs, so make sure you enter your business now!
Start your entry today
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People
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Amazon ups the ante on fashion
John Boumphrey, vice-president of Amazon Fashion Europe, plans to make the ecommerce giant “customers’ most-loved fashion destination”
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Amazon ups the ante on fashionSubscription
John Boumphrey, vice-president of Amazon Fashion Europe, plans to make the ecommerce giant “customers’ most-loved fashion destination”
Anthropologie to open in Winchester Subscription
This week's need-to-know people movesSubscription
Moncler plays down Kering takeover rumoursSubscription
Next proposes warehouse expansionSubscription
Sports Direct offers up Lillywhites London leaseSubscription
Revo junior vice-president announcedSubscription
Primark to debut in SlovakiaSubscription
Joules primed for 'tough' trading, says chiefSubscription
Ted Baker calls in advisersSubscription
Are your Christmas windows the best in the land?Subscription
Boohoo founders to sell shares Subscription
Pantone reveals colour of the year for 2020Subscription
Joules beats 'tough trading' with revenue riseSubscription
M&G suspends £2.5bn retail property fundSubscription
Royal Mail reveals top 10 Black Friday hotspotsSubscription
News analysis
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Fashion retail’s redundancy crisis at Christmas
The festive season looks bleak for thousands of retail workers facing redundancy, many of whom are turning to charity for help.
Who gets fashion retail's vote?
Drapers asks industry leaders what the next government needs to do for business and measures how the parties’ pledges stand up.
Steep learning curve for babywear
The administrations of Mothercare UK and Mamas & Papas last week expose their failure to meet the demands of new parents in a changing market.
AllSaints' holy grail: product, marketing and distribution
Chief executive Peter Wood’s dogged focus on product, marketing and distribution has helped get struggling AllSaints’ operating profit back in the black. But is the new strategy sound enough to withstand future headwinds?
The perils of 'highly sexualised' advertising
Boohoo and Missguided ads have been banned for being “highly sexualised” and not “socially responsible”, prompting questions about the imagery and messaging fast fashion uses to sell product to young shoppers.
Getting Asos back on track
Profits have fallen at Asos. How can the etailer overcome its challenges to ensure sustainable growth?
The price of a no-deal Brexit
As the reality of a no-deal Brexit nears, retailers face increased costs as a result of import tariffs on clothing and weaker sterling. The question is: who pays?
The Drapers Interview
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Drapers Hit or Miss: fashion rentalSubscription
As the rental fashion trends begins to take off, Drapers road tests four platforms offering consumers the chance to hire their wardrobes.
The great council retail property takeoverSubscription
Retail property companies are dumping assets as they seek to reduce their exposure to the sector, and councils are stepping in to buy them and taking on the risk and cost of developing them.
Drapers' essential autumn 20 trade show guideSubscription
Your indispensable guide to the upcoming trade shows starts here, with Drapers’ comprehensive calendar for the season ahead
All Good Things: a sustainable concept powered by retail starsSubscription
New sustainable retail concept, All Good Things, offers an innovative and overdue solution to retail’s landfill legacy.
Drapers Investigates: the independent retail crisisSubscription
Drapers’ survey shows independent businesses are currently battling to survive amid high street headwinds, with more than a quarter reporting they are not profitable. It found that the survival of the independent sector will require significant action from local councils and wider government.
The after life: why fashion aftercare is on the riseSubscription
Businesses offering consumers ways to care for or lengthen the life of their clothing are booming. Drapers speaks to four growing businesses to find out about why the aftercare sector is on the up.
How Black Friday has become retail's grey areaSubscription
Black Friday has become a fixture on the fashion retail industry’s promotional calendar. But as the discounting activity becomes longer and deeper, and some retailers and consumers shun the event altogether, its future has become blurred.
What John Lewis thinks men want Subscription
Drapers takes a tour of the rejuvenated menswear floor at John Lewis’s Oxford Street flagship and talks to customer experience director Peter Cross about what men want.
Editor’s Comment: Embrace the speed of changeSubscription
Guide to Growth: Your questions answered Subscription
Our new portal focuses on answering the questions brands and retailers want answered.
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Drapers and Klarna launch Next Generation EntrepreneursSubscription
Our new report lists the founders challenging the status quo.
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The Drapers Quiz
Discover fashion career opportunities. Search and apply online for your dream job.
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Drapers branded fashion content section Brand Showcase brings you the collections you can't afford to miss
What to expect at CIFF January 2020Subscription
Drapers' Industry Insight brings you the latest supplier and technological developments that you can't afford to miss
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Drapers' editorial features and fashion specials 2020Subscription
Plan your marketing and advertising with upcoming features and specials in Drapers magazine for the coming year
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Editor’s Comment: Embrace the speed of change
The pace of change has never been this fast, yet it will never be this slow again. I have lost count of how many times I have heard this expression used in relation to fashion retail in 2019.
Comment: Why humans trump robots in fashion retail
Unlike other retail sectors, the nature of fashion makes a robot takeover impossible, argues Victoria Nightingale, retail and consumer partner at executive search firm Bailey Montagu.
Editor’s Comment: Black Friday at a turning point
As Black Friday has mutated from a one-day event into a fortnight of deals, more and more fashion retailers have fallen down the rabbit hole of heavy discounting in the weeks before Christmas.
Editor’s Comment: Business rates need a radical rethink
As the spectre of another general election looms – the second in just over two years – this week we ask the fashion retail industry what policies they think the next government should prioritise.
Editor’s Comment: Singles' Day is important – but let’s leave it in China
Chinese ecommerce platform Alibaba’s annual Singles’ Day discounting event dwarfs Black Friday in terms of sales, and provides an important opportunity for British brands to break into the lucrative Chinese market.
Retailer Insight: Build your high street tribe
Ahead of Small Business Saturday on 7 December, Hilary Cookson, Lifetime Achievement winner at the Drapers Independents Awards 2019, says collaborating with neighbouring retailers is vital
Editor’s Comment: A race to the bottom is not the solution
The first of this year’s Christmas adverts were unwrapped this week, but the festive cheer failed to mask an underlying anxiety as we wait to see how the Black-Friday-to-Boxing-Day period plays out.
Editor’s Comment: Mothercare has to shake up its whole approach
As the clocks went back and the temperature dropped last weekend, I headed to my local retail park to buy a new duvet for my son. I left disappointed – finding nowhere that sold a decent selection of children’s bedding – and caught myself wishing there was a Mothercare nearby.
Editor’s Comment: Brexit exposed fatal flaws at Bonmarché
Much like the weather, Brexit has become a somewhat convenient excuse for struggling retailers to explain away weak sales. But in the case of Bonmarché, it was the final nail in the coffin.
Retailer Insight: Visual merchandising must tell shoppers a story
Julie Schroer, senior creative manager at London womenswear independent Blaiz, Best Visual Merchandising and Store Design winner at the Drapers Independents Awards 2019, explains its award-winning approach.
Editor’s Comment: Masterclasses in connecting with customers
Changing shopping behaviours continue to rip through the fashion industry at speed, bringing both challenges and opportunities for retailers.
'Boris says "do or die" – I say UK will be a dead man walking'
A hard Brexit could be “catastrophic” for the fashion industry, writes Cécile Reinaud, founder and president of maternitywear brand Seraphine.
Editor’s Comment: Double tariff trouble for British fashion
British fashion retail has been dealt a double dose of bad news in recent days.
Editor’s Comment: the Karen Millen store cull was hard to watch
It was a sad moment walking past the closing Karen Millen store on the corner of Regent Street and Princes Street in central London last week.
Retailer Insight: Andrew Jennings on how to remain relevant
Retail has never been this fast and it will never be this slow again, writes Andrew Jennings, senior retail executive, author of Almost Is Not Good Enough and former boss of House of Fraser, Saks Fifth Avenue and Harrods.
Editor’s Comment: Facing the pressure of the fast fashion world
The high-stress world of fast fashion was laid bare last week in the first episode of a six-part BBC Three documentary on womenswear etailer In The Style.
Comment: Première Vision sets edgy autumn agenda
Sustainable innovations and Brexit were the top talking points at the autumn 20 edition of Paris textiles trade show Première Vision, as fabrics veered towards the dark and shimmering.
London Fashion Week: the Drapers verdict
International buyers flock to London’s womenswear designers for a balance between creativity and commerciality.
Retailer Insight: How China became a key market for Radley
When Radley was bought by private equity firm Bregal Freshstream in 2016, the business was well-established in the UK, but under-represented internationally, writes CEO Justin Stead.
Editor’s Comment: Brexit déjà vu at London Fashion Week
Yet again we find ourselves in the strange position of celebrating London as an international stage for British design talent, less than two months before the UK leaves the European Union.
Industry Comment: Collaborate to overcome fashion's new challenges
New skills and collaboration are vital for fashion SMEs, writes Judith Tolley, head of creative business incubator the Centre for Fashion Enterprise, as it opens its new business hub
Editor's Comment: There's fight left in our independent retailers
Judging for the Drapers Independents Awards is always a lively debate, and one that reassures me that it’s not all doom and gloom on the high street – there is so much innovation and success to celebrate.
Editor's Comment: Panic autumn Sales cause lasting damage
Widespread discounting on autumn stock before the summer has even come to an end has, worryingly, become common practice for many UK fashion retailers – and has potentially damaging implications.
Comment: Apprenticeships have the power to transform fashion
Creative and technical skills are vital for a thriving UK fashion and textiles industry, but skills shortages and risks to the talent pipeline are among the most urgent challenges facing the sector, writes John West, director of skills and training at the UK Fashion and Textile Association (UKFT).
Industry comment: We need to be bold after Brexit
Agility, courage and determination will let businesses prosper after Brexit, despite the challenges, writes Lucy Reece-Raybould, CEO of the British Footwear Association.
Editor's Comment: Online profitability is a long game
Consumers are embracing online shopping, which requires fashion retailers to invest heavily in developing ecommerce – but an increasing number are questioning the return on that investment.
Editor's Comment: A pleasure and a privilege
When I joined Drapers in June 2005, I could not have imagined the challenges and opportunities the next 14 years would bring.
Retailer Insight: Breathe some lifestyle into footwear retail
Brands and retailers need to widen their view and delight their customers to remain successful, writes Gerard Levy, owner of independent footwear retailer Spice London and footwear agency Gil Agencies.
Editor's Comment: Still a lot to be proud of on the high street
This week Drapers celebrates an incredible 132 years. Looking back at the industry over that time there have been huge changes and challenges to overcome but there has also been plenty to celebrate.
Comment: Putting the preppy pep back into Jack Wills
Mike Ashley’s Sports Direct has acquired lifestyle retailer Jack Wills for £12.8m. What will it take to revive the flagging business?
Editor's Comment: HoF won't survive without strong supplier relationships
To say it has been a turbulent week for Sports Direct Group is an understatement.
Comment: Quality of buyers makes up for quantity at Jacket Required
In the sweltering heat of one of London’s hottest days of the year, the spring 20 edition of menswear trade show Jacket Required was judged by exhibitors and buyers alike to be relatively quiet.
Editor's Comment: Industry support must be Johnson's top priority
Consumer confidence is low, the high street is in the midst of one of its most challenging periods yet, Brexit is imminent, and the UK has a new prime minister, Boris Johnson.
Comment: Steady spring 20 at Pure London and Scoop
The spring 20 editions of UK trade shows Pure London and Scoop, which ran concurrently in London on 21-23 July, got off to a sunny yet slow start on Sunday, although both shows picked up across the three days.
Editor’s Comment: Make high streets local focal destinations
I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again: the high street is not dead.
Comment: What does Asos's fall from grace tell us?
In the wake of Asos’s second profit warning in seven months, Stephen Springham, head of retail research at property consultancy Knight Frank argues that ecommerce is not a golden ticket to success.
Spotted: why Zara’s dotty dress went viral
It’s summer’s dress sensation – but why has Zara’s polka-dot maxi-dress taken the high street by storm?
Editor’s Comment: Retail visionary Arthur Ryan never forgot his roots
The industry is saddened this week by the loss of retail stalwart, Arthur Ryan, who has died aged 83. My thoughts go to all of his family, friends and colleagues.
Editor's Comment: Get the basics right – and then take a leap
Lately, not a week goes by without the mention of a CVA and this week is no exception – the latest being high street footwear staple Office, which has appointed restructuring advisers to assess its financial position amid “tough trading conditions”.
Editor's Comment: Footwear's finest step up to market challenges
When market conditions are tough, it is never more important to take time to celebrate the achievements, innovations and businesses pushing forward through turbulent waters.
Comment: The use of CVAs needs greater scrutiny
Company voluntary arrangements must be bound by stricter rules, says Ed Cooke, chief executive of commercial property body Revo.
Editor's Comment: 'Out of touch' government is failing industry and customers
The fashion industry contributes more than £32 billion to the UK economy, yet, once again, calls for support from the government have gone unheeded.
Givenchy’s Florentine takeover
As the sun set over the plush Florentine hills, the Pitti crowds made their way to the luxurious Villa Palmieri for British designer Clare Waight Keller’s first standalone menswear show at the helm of French fashion house Givenchy.
'CVAs are unexploded bombs for indies'
Large retailers entering into CVAs can have an unfair and heavy impact on independent retailers, says Martin Brighty, owner of central London menswear independent Peckham Rye.
Comment: Fresh perspective is just what John Lewis needs
The incoming chairman of John Lewis Partnership is certainly a leftfield choice.
Comment: Finding the future at London Fashion Week Men's
The spring 20 edition of London Fashion Week Men’s (LFWM), which took place on 7-10 June, officially kicked off the new menswear buying season with a strong and steady edition that focused the spotlight on fashion’s future.
Editor's Comment: Brands reboot for the new buying season
Product will always sit at the heart of any fashion business. As we move into June and the new buying season kicks off with London Fashion Week Mens and menswear trade show Pitti Uomo in Florence, retailers will be looking at how their new-season collections can offer something unique to drive customers in store and online.
Comment: Why my agency picks brands with no online presence
Sales director at independent fashion and distribution agency MDA International, Hannah Jordan, explains why the company chooses to work with independent brands that do not have an online presence.
Comment: Strategy refresh is just what Asos needs
Asos is one of many retailers that admits it has tightened its returns policy, as figures reveal that 26% of brands have recorded an increase in returns over the last two years.
Editor's Comment: Hard lessons for the once-mighty Arcadia
Arcadia was once the most powerful player on the high street.
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Redefining Retail: the high street in 2020 and beyond
A new report from New West End Company and Springwise considers the shape of retail in the next decade. Drapers brought together retailers to debate how the industry can redefine itself.
Drapers and Klarna launch Next Generation Entrepreneurs
Our new report lists the founders challenging the status quo.
How to achieve growth in a difficult climate
Our new report, Growth in a Changing Economy, explores how fashion brands and retailers can achieve growth in an uncertain climate.
Guide to Growth: Your questions answered
Our new portal focuses on answering the questions brands and retailers want answered.
Mapping the multichannel customer journey: Connected Consumer 2019
The Connected Consumer – Drapers’ multichannel customer insight report – shines a light on how fashion shoppers are using mobile, social and store shopping.
How sustainability is changing the fashion economy
Drapers has collaborated with Raconteur on a new report, the Fashion Economy, published in The Times today.
Webcast: Increasing profitability with automation
Our webcast explored how brands are using analytics and automation to increase profit.
Gen Z and Millennials
Between them, Generation Z and millennials – broadly, shoppers in their late teens, twenties and thirties – attract endless attention, and represent fashion’s consumers of both the present and future.
Five ways AI is working for fashion retailers
It’s not just a buzzword – artificial intelligence is changing how retailers do business in tangible ways. In our new report, we speak to some of the retailers using the technology about how AI is changing things for them.
Drapers multichannel trends report 2019
Drapers’ multichannel trends report explores the most important trends in cross channel retail this year. Download it here for interviews with River Island, M&S, Mango and more.
If you entered fashion to be creative, don't fear automation
Until recently, technology and fashion and may not have seemed natural bedfellows, and yet today, from design to marketing, from production to distribution, technology is influencing every facet of our industry.
What sold well online over Christmas 2018?
Drapers, in partnership with Ebay, provides a quarterly snapshot of data on online fashion retail’s KPIs and trends.
Coming up: Drapers multichannel roundtable
Drapers’ multichannel breakfast will explore how the cross-channel mix is evolving in fashion in 2019.
Webinar: Lessons from Christmas 2018
Drapers’ webinar explores key lessons and insights from Christmas 2018.
Drapers Guide: Customer Reviews
How customer reviews are changing fashion, and our step by step guide to making the most of them.
Personalisation for anonymous shoppers
Most of the visitors to a retailer’s website are anonymous. How can the experience be tailored to them without knowing who they are?
The opportunities of off-price fashion
As sustainability - and squeezed margins - continue to put pressure on retailers to improve management of excess stock, off-price fashion has become a hot topic. Drapers’ new report explores its opportunities.
The new rules of digital customer experience
What does the ideal digital customer experience look like today, and who are the retailers leading the way?
What Nike, Asos and Everlane have in common
Join us for a live briefing on what makes a great digital experience, and hear who’s getting it right.
Webinar: The future of data in online retail
Retailers are starting to learn more about their shoppers based on their online behaviour - something that is becoming more important in a post-GDPR world.
Where automation can help
Our new report pinpoints the parts of the customer journey that technology is improving.
Facing fashion's sustainable challenge
Sustainability in fashion is the hot topic of the moment, and was the subject of discussion at Drapers’ latest roundtable.
Mastering mobile as the 2018 peak approaches
The 2018 retail peak is nearly upon us, and mobile will be playing a more important role than ever.
Webinar: Next-generation digital marketing
How are retailers’ email strategies evolving?
Customer insight: How fashion’s multichannel consumers are evolving
Our annual survey of fashion shoppers provides in-depth insight into what shoppers want in a multichannel retail world.
Ecommerce Snapshot: Fashion's Q3 online performance
The Drapers Ecommerce Snapshot gives a comprehensive overview of fashion’s digital performance over the last quarter.
Building a continuous customer view
The single customer view is at the forefront of retailers’ minds, but GDPR and continuing customer concerns about privacy mean it is no easy win
Video: How 3D software is impacting design
Fashion retailers gathered at the Soho Hotel in June to discuss how 3D fashion is changing the industry.
Instagram's new tools for fashion retailers
In partnership with Instagram, Drapers explores the platform’s range of recent new tools - including the launch of IGTV last month - and how they are boosting consumer engagement.
Solving fashion's sustainability problem
Fashion is one of the world’s most polluting industries.
