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Autumn 12

Creative director Jonny Johansson took Acne’s roomy androgynous cuts and boxy boyish shapes from spring 12 and upped the ante, distorting silhouettes and playing with the body in a more exaggerated way. It was strange, but in a good way. Outerwear stood out across the collection, with interesting pumped-up volume, cropped and long flowing styles that chopped up the body. There was an oversized drop-shouldered bomber that was cut short above the waist, a chunky quilted jacket that nipped and tucked around the waist with elastic straps, and knee-length coats with billowy sleeves, sometimes hanging loose, or chopped in with extra-wide, wrap-around belts. In contrast, bodycon dresses were made out of flesh-coloured panels that worked, bandage-like, across the body. Low-slung trousers were topped with restrictive girdle-like corsets.

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