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Alexander McQueen

The collection

Leather-clad Edwardian lotharios came in body sculpting black and succinctly tailored copper and caramel shades in a show that veered from camp to vamp but took in some heritage fabrications and sharp suiting along the way. Oversized checks were a cheeky nod to the 1950s influence but came in body-skimming shapes on trousers and waistcoats as the silhouette stayed neat and McQueen fastened coats to the neck and roll-neck knits skimmed the chin to keep out the cold.

Key items

Camel car coats gave a gentlemanly edge to the proceedings as did the overall heritage theme where leather buckled long line cable knits came in navy and were worn over tweedy wools. Fabric contrasts were a strong influence and leather shoulders were added to patch pocketed 4sb hunting jackets. The traditional British heritage theme continues on orange window pane checks on heavy wool belted coats with storm flaps come in moss green while the cape, which is gaining currency for several designers looked purely vintage here.

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