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Best of the rest

RUE DE MAIL

Scalloped shapes, pinned drapes and contrast textural fabrics offer exactly the right balance of directional shape and girl-next-door wearability

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
A deconstructed silhouette of layered angular pieces, with cutaway blazers, squared off neckline cape coats, and leather jackets either worn over the head or on just one shoulder

GARETH PUGH

The British designer inverted his signature wide shoulder triangle shape for quilted bell bottom coats, trapeze capes and wide leg trousers in black and pewter shades

VICTOR AND ROLF

Inspired by neo-classical sculptures, the out-there design duo proffered a neutral palette of ruched dresses, waterfall ruffle coats, leather trenches and subtle marble prints

COMME DES GARCONS

A layered outerwear-heavy collection of quilted cocoons and khaki capes, chequerboard wraps, cropped wool bikers and leather blazers, all juxtaposed with sheets of peach chiffon

VALENTINO

Tailored dresses are pintucked, knotted and bejewelled in shades of apple, lemon and scarlett, while leopard print fur, safari suits and forest printed silks add an eclectic touch

DRIES VAN NOTEN

Print and colour lead the way for Dries Van Noten, with floral blooms in abstract geometric panels, as chartreuse is paired with lilac and rose pink with carrot orange

CHLOE

The second outing for designer Hannah MacGibbon, blanket coats and wraparound outerwear was juxtaposed with nude floaty dresses, sheer blousons and lightweight boyfriend blazers

GALLIANO

A flamboyant take on Russian folkloric for Galliano, with gold trimmed gypsy skirts, matador detailed waistcoats and silver coin detailing on sheer, wispy chiffons 

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