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Pitti Uomo: Menswear Autumn 15

Brands reinterpreted classic menswear styles at autumn 15’s edition of Pitti Uomo in Florence.

Gloverall 1951

Launched for autumn 15, Gloverall 1951 is a higher-end offer, inspired by the brand’s sporting heritage and links to the early British Grand Prix. With a slightly more trend-led direction, signature Gloverall boiled wool duffle coats feature motoring-inspired appliqué badges and decorative pins, lending character to the classic wood-toggle style. Other pieces include a sporty cropped quilted jacket and raincoats in shower and windproof nylon. Knitwear ranges from shawl-collar cardigans and chunky Aran knits to a jersey varsity jumper with 1951 chest appliqué.

  • Wholesale prices start at £37 for shirts to £180 for a waxed field jacket, while the standout quilt-lined duffle in Fox Brothers fabric is £248.

  • 01604 812812 Gloverall.com

Eden Park

Rugby-inspired lifestyle brand Eden Park has followed the parka trend for autumn 15. The offer includes a multi-pocketed, shower-proof version with a coyote fur-trimmed hood, available in black, green or blue and wholesaling at £184. The 10 parka styles range from £100 to £200. Another strong piece is a lambswool windowpane check two-button sb blazer at £113. Formal jackets start at £101 and go up to £124. Elsewhere in the range lambswool cable-knit cardigans with leather-style buttons are from £84. The wider collection features check shirts, hoodies and rugby tops with pops of colour, including bright pink and blue.

Barbour International Triumph

Barbour’s premium International label launched its first collaboration as part of a two-year deal with Triumph Motorcycles. Leather and denim is central to the range; a belted motorcycle jacket features four patch pockets and worn denim jackets have biker pin badges. Classic waxed utility jackets feature multiple pockets, and chunky roll-neck and shawl-collar knits with the brand’s logo proved popular with buyers. The full collection includes crew-neck sweaters and T-shirts in nepped jersey.

  • Wholesale prices range from £25 for T-shirts to £500 for leather outerwear.

  • 0191 455 4444 Barbour.com

Timothy Everest

With its first full contemporary ready-to-wear collection, Timothy Everest has focused on a “tailored casual” and functional theme. Taking everyday iconic pieces such as the bomber jacket, parka and mac, it has brought its bespoke knowledge into play by focusing on fit with a more tailored approach, using a slimmer block. The parka is key to the smart functionality of the range, cut with a Savile Row-style arm hole and detailed internal sculpted facings, cord trims and cord-lined storm pockets, a colour-pop quilted lining and coyote fur-trimmed hood.

The sporty work suit, featuring sportswear jacket, waistcoat and trousers, and the bonded seam travel mac with removable hood are also predicted to be bestsellers.

  • Wholesale prices range from £60 for shirts to £395 for the parka.

  • 020 7426 4882 Timothyeverest.co.uk

Barena

Launching in the UK for the first time, via UK sales agency Fourmarketing, Venetian label Barena produces its clothing in Italy with an attention to detail that ensures its elegant menswear catches the eye. Co-founder and designer Francesca Zara pointed out the introduction of playful patterns and a new outerwear shape: a baggy, oversized db coat with large hood in cosy virgin wool. Other styles include the brand’s signature casual tailoring. Zara said: “UK buyers want everything we do in navy. Lots of navy!”

  • Wholesale prices start at €120 (£92) for blazers and go up to €280 (£214) for coats.

  • 020 7608 9100 Barenavenezia.com

Allegri

Describing itself as the architect of fabrics, Italian outerwear specialist Allegri did not disappoint. Currently only stocked by Flannels in the UK, the brand is bang on trend for the smart yet functional look, with all outerwear 100% waterproof. Several pieces use a new and exclusive Polywool, which offers waterproofing and breathability. Sales manager Andrea Pucci highlighted a tailored minimalist mac, which has no stitching but laser-cut edges and thermo-taped seams in a special double cotton, and a quilted down gilet that is super-soft and light to touch.


  • Wholesale prices for outerwear range from €150 (£114) to €500 (£381).

  • +39 0571 75811 Allegri.com

Series

Sold in 130 stores in its native South Korea, Series was at Pitti to find its first European stockists. There is a smart-meets-casual feel to the collection, with tailored overcoats in unusual chunky and textured wools, teamed with oversized cable knits and unstructured blazer-like wool jackets, some with casual raw hems. The on-trend functional look is also present in quilted gilets with contrasting wool collar details and a padded oversized parka with removable quilted lining.

  • Wholesale prices range from €70 (£53) for chunky knitwear to €205 (£156) for a thick wool coat.

  • +82 2 3677 8805 Byseries.com

Aquascutum

British premium brand Aquascutum has opted for a more casual look for its autumn 15 men’s outerwear range. Key pieces include the Chesterton, a down-filled parka with a raccoon fur-trimmed hood (£369 wholesale), the Kirkman, a cotton/nylon sb trench with a zip-fronted integrated body warmer (£184), and the Steele, a quilted flannel blazer that comes in both navy and grey (£172). Colours across the range focus on classic black, greys and navy.


Diatura

Walking around Pitti, the parka coat was widespread. Diatura, set up three years ago in Tokyo, specialises in the style, offering functional coats with a smart, luxurious fashion edge, such as a suiting-style pinstripe wool. Performancewear features are used such as a zip-out wind-stop panel at the waist - elasticated around the body to trap in warm air - double and triple zip closures and a 90% down, 10% feather filling for extra warmth, while still remaining incredibly light. These come in fabrics such as 100% wool or wool, nylon and cashmere blends with raccoon fur trims.

  • Parkas wholesale for around €470 (£350).

  • +81 3 5456 9965 Diatura.jp

North Sails

US sailmaker North Sails unveiled its first clothing collection at Pitti, after being bought by Oakley Capital and former Scotch & Soda owner Eric Bijlsma. International sales manager Patrick Reytenbagh says Black Sails is the most premium line, featuring a “smart take on sportswear”. Deep Blue is “technical yet casual” and Ocean Blue is pitched as “younger and slightly more rebellious”. Icons is a 15-piece basics line. Styles include a laser-cut trench coat with bonded seams and a moleskin overcoat with detachable quilted inner jacket.

  • Wholesale prices range from €20 (£15) for T-shirts to €500 (£381) for a long parka.

  • +33 6 1171 7731 Northsails.com

Canada Goose

Quilting, camouflage-style prints and longer silhouettes are new in outerwear specialist Canada Goose’s men’s collection. One of its expected bestsellers is the Carson, a quilted Arctic parka with a 625 fill power down and waterproof coating with coyote fur-lined hood at £280 wholesale. The Brookveil (£150) brings a camo-esque print to the collection and comes in a slightly longer fit with colour-contrasting zip detail - another new feature for autumn 15. It is made from a new lighter-weight material called Vereflex, which is a 15-denier nylon.

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