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Première Vision Preview

The inside track on some of the British mills showing at textiles show Première Vision in Paris on February 10-12.

Henry Bertrand

  • Location: London

  • Founded: 1885

  • Specialities: Luxury silks and silk-blend fabric.

  • Managing director: Katy Bercovitch Owners Edward Gilbert and Katy Bercovitch

  • Staff: 20

  • Clients: High-end womenswear and bridalwear designers, as well as fashion houses in London, Paris, Milan and New York.


  • Première Vision: For spring 16 Henry Bertrand is showing sheer woven jacquard fabrics in metallic, soft pastels and stronger shades. “For this season we have also created a small capsule collection in a more affordable price range for the ready-to-wear/top-end high street,” explains Bercovitch. “It is priced at £10 to £20 per sq m, compared with normal prices of £40 to £50 per sq m.

    “The fabrics are a sheer-weight jacquard in a blend of silk with polyester, acetate and viscose. One popular fabric is a 15% silk and 85% polyester mix.”

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Holland & Sherry

  • Location: Peebles, Scotland

  • Founded: 1836

  • Specialities: Luxury cloth for suits and tailoring in merino wool, cashmere, mohair, cotton, linen and vicuña.

  • Managing director: Frank O’Reilly

  • Owner: Tom James Organisation

  • Staff: 80

  • Clients: Haute couture, tailors and luxury brands in Europe, the US, Middle East and Asia.

  • Première Vision: For spring 16, Holland & Sherry will be launching two new mohair collections. Based on vintage 1960s and 1970s heavyweight mohair cloth, Luxury Mohair is given a lightweight twist with the addition of 60% summer kid mohair.

    Classic Mohair is available in vibrant shades of electric blue, aubergine, teal, green, grey and navy. Holland & Sherry will also showcase its South Pacific Linen for suits, shirts and dresses and Cashique Collection, a blend of 54% merino wool, 30% cashmere and 16% silk. Cashique is ideal for suits and jackets for both men and women, according to design director Richard Chambers.

Holland_and_Sherry

 

Hield Brothers

  • Location: Brigella Mills, Bradford

  • Founded: 1922 by David and Hugh Hield

  • Specialities: Super 100s extra-fine merino wool suiting cloth, wool/crêpe and wool/mohair fabric for classic English summer suiting.

  • Managing director: Firas Chamsi-Pasha

  • Owner: Chamsi-Pasha brothers

  • Staff: 35

  • Clients: Savile Row tailors and high-fashion labels like Burberry and Ralph Lauren Polo. Its biggest market is Japan.

  • Première Vision: Head designer Joanne Alsop says: “We have jacketing fabrics in 75% wool and 25% mohair or in 90% wool and 10% silk, in racing green, dark red and aubergine.

    “Our wool, silk and linen blend has a washed-out look, lending itself to fashion-forward designers like Burberry and Ralph Lauren Polo. We also do an Egyptian cotton blazer fabric with a mohair weft and high twist in the warp to create a beautiful, breathable fabric great for humid summers.”

    Alsop believes men are getting bolder thanks to celebrities like actor Eddie Redmayne, who have led a renewed interest in colour and sophisticated fabrics.

Stephen Walters & Sons

  • Location: Sudbury, Suffolk

  • Founded: 1720

  • Specialities: Jacquard woven silks and bespoke fabrics for ready-to-wear, couture and bridal designers.

  • Managing director: Julius Walters

  • Owner: Walters family

  • Staff: 100

  • Clients: Ready-to-wear, bridalwear, couture and designer brands in the US, Far East and Europe. In the UK, it caters for the upper end of the high street.

  • Première Vision: Jacquard wovens for jackets and coats for menswear will be on show as well as a new range of denim jacquards for womenswear, woven on looms that can create large-scale designs, as well as fun, smaller motifs.

    “For bridalwear we have 20 new designs,” says Chloë Armitage, head of apparel. “Originally we just offered silk jacquards, but we now also use linen, cashmere and wool blended with silk.”

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Trend predictions

  • Pascaline Wilhelm
    Fashion director, Première Vision

Pascaline_Wilhelm

There are three key themes. The first is Motion, which ties in with the idea of energy and wellbeing, highlighting subtle techno fabrics with fluid stretch, which accent the body without clinging to it. The silhouette is not skinny, leaving space between the fabric and body for a comfortable, seductive quality.

Next is Abundance - sheer layered textures and folds, and flowers merged with geometric patterns. The final theme is Essential, the trend for ‘raw’ fabrics in hybrid blends of natural and man-made fibres, with rich, tactile textures that look simple but are actually sophisticated in their construction.

  • Beryl Gibson
    Textiles consultant

Beryl_Gibson

British mills are investing in new equipment and experimenting with different fibres. Classics such as linen, wool and silk are blended with man-made fibres, like cupro and viscose, for highly textural and tactile fabrics.

The lines between daywear and eveningwear are becoming ever more blurred, with metallic touches and sheen as common by day as by night. Expect to see fabrics layered with prints, embroidered and appliquéd.

  • Helen Palmer
    Head of materials and knits at trends website WGSN

Helen_Palmer__WGSN

Discrete textures and patterns are enhancing traditional shirtings and suitings. Complex fabrics and interesting yarns are going mainstream.

Sports couture has crossed over into fashion. There is a clever approach to performance design and the technical side of fashion has become softer. This trend also embraces the blurred lines between formal and casualwear.

  • Laurie Pressman
    Vice president at Pantone Colour Institute

Laurie_Pressman

It’s not just about colours, but what can be done to make colour more interesting - using techniques such as tricolour twists, shine and smudging effects.

Our spring 16 palette focuses on neutrals like fleshy pinks and warm peach. Grey has replaced beige as the key neutral. Whites have lots of lustre and sheen. Browns are back in shades of chocolate and almond. Blues are darker and rich, and herald the return of fashion’s all-time favourite, black.

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