A mix of synthetic and natural will characterise fabric trends in spring 14.
Paris fabric show Première Vision, which runs from February 12 to 14, is a key event for the textiles industry - it is the destination for discovering what will influence the themes for spring 14. With the help of the show’s fashion director, Pascaline Wilhelm, Drapers forecasts the trends you should be looking out for at February’s show and beyond, and examines which textiles will determine the looks that retailers will focus on as the design process kicks off for their spring 14 collections.
Pascaline Wilhelm “There is a focus on the natural and the evolution of the natural. This is not rustic though; it is sophisticated. There is a big story around the feeling of dryness. There will be a lot of reference to sand and marble coming through as grainy faces on fabrics.
“This theme also focuses on the ethnic. This is an interpretation of the tribal, with a big push on geometrics. But there is a move into ambiguousness; there could even be pixelated takes on tribal in printing and embroidery.”
● Think about natural phenomena such as dry sand, stone and marble coming through as grain-like patterns, surface detail and interesting textures.
● Raw texture is key, so you should be looking at updates on raffia, tweeds and bumpy jacquards.
Work in shaggy fleeces, linen blends, guipures and braids, alongside options with sand-like textures and grainy flecks.
● Look out for new takes on primitive, ethnic and tribal designs through graphic, sometimes pixelated geometric patterns in both prints and embroideries.
● Stone and fossil-like prints are important, as well as embroideries and appliqués that appear like natural minerals.
● Sunny sands, new takes on brights and pastels contrasted with dark tones are the top colours, all in graphic combinations.
Pascaline Wilhelm “This trend story is linked to architecture and is much more structured, but not in a strict, angled way. There will be transparency in spring 14, as if the fabrics are made from air.
“There will be airy, three-dimensional constructions, lots of multi-transparencies and embossing and perforations. Structure will also be made with colour too, so there will be lots of blocking of colour, but through layering. There is also no strict colour palette; this is very colourful but subtle.”
● This trend is about the concept of soft and light structures with an airiness perfect for spring and summer. Everything is lightweight, featuring perforated holes or layers of translucency and opacity.
● Find this sense of structure in fabrics with three-dimensional surfaces such as honeycombs, quilting and repeat embossing.
● Get the airy feeling from fabrics with perforations or semi-perforated embossing. Look for new ways of making perforations including burn-outs on knits and laces, or layer blurry gauzes, organza and voile.
● Stripes are important, arranged in colour gradients, alongside tiny checks, mini-houndstooth and colourfully blurred digital prints.
● Bright colour should be filtered and dulled through misty, translucent layers of fabric or spotted through perforated holes. Soft chalks and pastels will be prominent, in bold, two-tone colour combinations, or tone-on-tone-on-tone.
Pascaline Wilhelm “This is the beginning of the end for the love of 100% wool, 100% cotton and 100% cashmere. This trend is about hybrids and mixing natural and synthetic; it’s incredible what kinds of different behaviours we can create from the fabrics.
“All sorts of things can be bonded and glued together. We have a lot of mixing with silk, for example, for both men and women. Stretch fabrics are interesting this season because they pick up on technologies such as scuba.
It’s absolutely gorgeous because these are new things that you don’t necessarily understand at the first touch - you ask yourself ‘what is it?’”
● Hybrids, mixes and blends are important, combining the natural with the synthetic to create a mixture of sport and sophistication.
● Seek out fabrics that are bonded or blended and come with stretch, such as cottons blended from silk, viscose and cupro, lace bonded with neoprene or silk bonded with plastic. Rubbery softness is important, with the foamy scuba trend going mainstream.
● Look for mixed coatings that create gelled, shiny, plastic or liquid-like finishes on unexpected things.Lacquered, pearlescent wet looks will feature on cotton and linens, while coatings will update lace and embroideries.
● Key prints will mix the animal and vegetal, resulting in bizarre combinations. Abstract florals will mix the photographic with the painterly.
● Important colours include unusual green combinations, rich and natural darks that act as base blocks and floral mixes that bring colour, alongside mother-of-pearl tones and pinky-gold metallics.