Designers refused to play it safe in Copenhagen, opting to move towards soft, feminine leathers and tailored dresses
Following on from the distinct lack of inspirational new trends at the Parisian womenswear shows at the end of January, buyers who ventured to the cooler climes
of Scandinavia last week would have been pleasantly surprised by the flashes of design bravery from brands exhibiting at Copenhagen’s three trade shows, Gallery, CPH Vision and CIFF.
Particularly exciting was the continued emphasis on tailoring. The pegged trousers and cropped blazers of the past year were still in evidence, but this time sat alongside sharply cut angular dresses, with structured hips and exaggerated shoulders adding extra emphasis to womanly shapes. Silver stripes and woven gold Lurex created glamorous evening options, while sequins on knitwear and glitzy 1980s-style tops represented a refusal from brands to play it too safe.
Continuing on the super-feminine theme, leather’s rebellious streak exemplified by this season’s rock ’n’ roll biker jacket was abandoned, and it was used instead on undulating ruffled dresses, belted and pleated bandeau styles, and in warm shades such as buttery tan and lilac-tinted grey.
Prints refused to be pigeonholed and the most abstract of florals, fruit and even intricate winter nature themes featured on silk A-line dresses. Colours were rich
and vibrant and covered a range of scarlet, fuchsia, sky blue and mango.
The plaid trend was reworked into more feminine forms for autumn 09 including 1960s shift shapes and boho-esque smocks. Brands clearly hope this will be a cash
cow for next season, following on from the popularity of checked shirts last year.
Outerwear was less of a focus than might have been expected for an autumn show, but there was no shortage of chunky knitwear, which for autumn 09 centres on traditional Nordic and Fair Isle patterns on jumper dresses, long cardigans and poncho styles.