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Designers play with proportion in Paris

Shows from the undisputed fashion capital are always eagerly anticipated, and Paris Fashion Week did not disappoint by challenging traditional femininity with a play on proportions.

Paris continued the sports luxe and updated femininity trends seen in New York, London and Milan but with less emphasis on print, with the exception of Dries Van Noten.

Drapers highlighted the importance of the blazer as a key shape in the London Fashion Week round-up, and this was confirmed in Paris. Balenciaga and Céline played with volume on box-cut jackets and blazers, with collarless styles a clear trend at Hermès, while Isabel Marant reworked the biker jacket into a longer-length style.

Paris confirmed the pencil and A-line as the must-have skirt silhouettes for spring 12. Lanvin and Roland Mouret focused on the pencil shape and Céline championed the A-line.

Tulip and peplum styles looked to the 1940s at Yves Saint Laurent. Givenchy modernised the look with bold manipulated peplums. Necklines were high and often with round necks as at Céline and Chloé. The importance of halternecks and one-shoulder tops for spring 12 was rubber-stamped by YSL and Stella McCartney respectively.

McCartney also worked mesh panels into fluid dresses while mesh sleeves at Chloé nodded to the sports utility trend.

For the more risqué, Balmain and Balenciaga opted for high-cut knicker shorts, and Lanvin covered high-cut styles with sheer layers.

The knee-length styles, sports utility and importance of the jacket, as seen in New York, London and Milan, were confirmed as bona fide spring 12 trends in Paris.

  • Coming soon: full report from Paris.

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