Elegant silhouettes, razor-sharp pattern-cutting skills and expert manipulation of prints summed up Erdem’s collection. Nothing new there, but who would want that handwriting to change? Not the Erdem customer. Still, the designer managed to satisfy the consumer’s constant need for newness with a darker mood to his collection, which saw latex meet his trademark lace. Rubber was also used to laminate tweed, while classic Erdem florals blurred into painterly prints. Purple, which has emerged as a trend in London and Milan, was key in Erdem’s palette. Time will tell if the Erdem customer – the front-row-sitting prime minister’s wife among them – will fall in love with the brand’s harder-edged collection. But the classic shift dresses, A-line skirts and floaty silhouettes will be the commercial winners, with the lace overlay pieces exceptional.