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Exclusive: Buyers single out Pilotto and Kane as LFW winners

Buyers have backed the catwalk shows from Peter Pilotto and Christopher Kane as the standout winners from this season’s London Fashion Week.

In what was hailed as “one of the most commercial fashion weeks ever”, all of the buyers spoken to by Drapers, mentioned either Christopher Kane or Peter Pilotto, or in some cases both as their favourite shows, while the use of leather and metallic were identified as the standout trends.

Liberty managing director Ed Burstell said: “My favourite collection was Christopher Kane – it was a master stroke full of fresh ideas and fresh directions that will resonate at retail. “

Christopher Kane was also a favourite for Browns buying director Laura Larbalestier, alongside Peter Pilotto and Ashish. She added: “I was also glad to see a lot more separates on the runway since we continue to see a shift to this and a move away from dresses.”

John Reid of Bristol designer indie Garment Quarter added: “Peter Pilotto was good and has moved on a lot from last season which is good to see.”

In terms of trends, John Lewis’ head of womenswear Jo Hooper said she had enjoyed the overarching ladylike look seen at Burberry, Mulberry and Whistles.

“The whole ladylike look is great. We are seeing a big move to separates with pieces including pencil skirts and blouses,” she said.

Carmen Borgonovo fashion director at premium etailer added that the coat was definitely the statement piece seen on the catwalk this season.

“Across the board there has been a lot of print, colour and texture with PVC and leather giving a tough edge to feminine silhouettes,” she added. “The pencil skirt was a focus for many designers and trousers had volume nipping in at the ankle.”

Henry Graham, design director of London designer indie Wolf and Badge,r said: “It was the best ones [LFW] I have been to.

“It was put together very professionally and was well curated. I also noticed more foreign buyers than ever before which is testament to the great designers coming out of the UK.”

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