Famed for his immaculate tailoring and muted palette, Armani did not disappoint in his ninth season of showing his Prive line at Couture week. Lustrous fabrics chosen for their body were worked into exaggerated, flicked-up silhouettes, just the right side of cartoon-like. China and the East were the source of inspiration for tassels, fan and floral prints and giant but subtle origami bows on jackets. Purple, daffodil and crimson were the only colours to puncture the otherwise calm colourway.
Neat, sculpted jackets with crisp, upturned shoulders and asymmetric fastenings borrowed their silhouette from the 1940s, as did hip-hugging pencil skirts with fluted below-the-knee hems. For evening, gowns were slim and architectural, with filigree detailing, fringing or dripping in sequins.