As usual, creative director Frida Giannini has been inspired by music. This time round pin-sharp new wave tailoring and this has led to a rigid, narrow suit silhouette centred on 2sb suits with low buttons and abbreviated db pea coats. It is a tight, dandyish look with geeky undertones. Combinations of geometrics and multi-stripes on shirts come in eye-popping highlights while suit fabrications veer from matt and tonic to heavy Donnegals in the grey tones and inky blues du jour. The second half of the show strayed back to a rockier look with with skin tight, slick trousers and biker jackets.
Tailoring was of course the focus of the collection with low buttoning 2sbs in grey. Plenty of clever details were injected - knitted biker jacket, tonal jacquard dogtooth trousers; narrow velvet suit with ankle baring trousers; two-showing db; shiny down filled coats; short boxy; belted macs; simple knits in micro-intarsia geometrics. Contrast collars on shirts included white on grey, salmon on crimson; shirts in orange, bold blue, club stripes and plain contrasting ties