Labels to watch
Here we present 12 key brands for the over-45 womenswear market. See this week’s magazine for our fashion special on this market including an analysis of how retailers are failing to fully exploit the sector. We also interview three key indies who reveal why their understanding of this market is so lucrative. To subscribe to Drapers magazine click here.
Dutch label Creenstone produces outerwear which is crafted from specialist fabrics to hold its shape in various weather situations. With its mix of functional and on-trend silhouettes, the collection has a contemporary city signature, and a premium handwriting. Refined high-quality wools and modern high-tech fabrics, many with a taffeta sheen inform the 1920s inspired autumn 09 collection.
Prices £70 to £170
Contact 020 7636 0593 www.creenstone.com
Stills has a strong focus on knitwear for autumn 09 with a variety of textures and fabrics present including cotton cashmere and faux fur. The folk-inspired collection focuses on multi-coloured embroideries and bold prints, with a soft approach to daywear, occasionwear and some office options. Longer skirts, textured knits and wide-legged trousers evoke a 1970s feeling. Dutch brand Stills produces four annual collections and has 200 accounts in the UK and Ireland.
Prices £35 to £135
Contact 01342 830 830 www.veldhovengroup.com
Out of Xile
Out of Xile is designed, cut, sewn, knitted, dyed and finished in the UK and produced using exclusively natural fabrics. Luxurious handmade trims are introduced throughout the collection which works heavily from silks, cotton, viscose and fine woollens. Autumn 09 is separated into seven subtly coloured stories with around 10 pieces in each. The use of natural fabrics softens the collection’s sculptural and feminine lines.
Prices £18 - £88
Contact 020 8348 2448 www.outofxile.co.uk
Masai Clothing Company
Masai’s autumn 09 collection includes a mixture of natural and structured fabrics, with a strong focus on knitwear and jackets. Originating from Denmark, Masai was founded in the mid 1990s by brother and sister Hans and Nina Rye. Designs specialise in fitted as well as loosely flowing styles to suit a broad age spectrum and a diversity of body shapes. Masai has over 120 independent stockists in the UK.
Prices £20 - £50
Contact 020 7385 9273 www.masai.dk
Divided into three segments, German label Apanage, provides a complete collection from soft tailoring through to casual day dresses. Key themes for autumn include retro riding references, shawl collared tailoring and an emphasis on rich jewel colours. Alongside the mainline, Femme focuses solely on dresses, while Rouge provides a more basics led offer of coordinates. There are up to ten colour stories each season and for autumn Apanage introduces a far broader range of outerwear options.
Prices £9 to £285
Contact 0207 6367111 www.apanage.de
Sold in 48 countries, Luisa Cerano has built a sophisticated international presence in just ten years. With its fashion forward personality the brand nods to trends without slavishly following them. For autumn 09 expect to see tweed mini shirts alongside sleeveless knits, leaf patterned prints on dresses, fitted tailoring, slimline pencil trousers, and a tie-dye maxi-dress with a dramatically embellished neckline.
Prices £23 to £400
Contact 020 7580 6244 www.luisacerano.com
Ischiko designer, Isik Ozgur, is renowned for her emphasis on texture, layering and an ability to fold and tease knitted fabrics into architectural shapes. Autumn 09 promises separates in luxury fabrics with silhouettes including smock shaped dresses, billowing outerwear, and modern tailoring developed using chunky knits. Ischiko’s palette remains entrenched in its trademark shades of black, mocha, charcoal, forest green and burgundy.
Prices £30 to £300
Contact 020 7636 0593 www.ischiko.com
Passport’s autumn offer plays heavily from a subdued backdrop of black and grey, punctuated by statement pieces in bright colours including forest green, pillar-box red and purple. Key styles include skinny leather trousers, faux fur gilets, pleated woollen city shorts, a quilted biker jacket and a Glencheck coat with faux fur collar and bracelet details. Passport has been in the UK for 15 years and has 160 accounts.
Prices £8 to £50
Contact 020 7636 7203 www.passport-fashion.de
Tummy Tuck Jeans
Developed by family-run US business Not Your Daughter’s Jeans, Tummy Tuck Jeans have become a big hit for boutique buyers. Designed to slim the lower abdomen, contour the hips and lift the bottom. The flattering fit is put down to a criss-cross front panel design and an extra stitched construction in the rear. Tummy Tuck Jeans have a four percent Lycra content in the denim, instead of the usual two percent, offering added comfort and stretch to the wearer.
Prices £45 to £60
Contact 0207 436 2882 www.tummytuckjeans.uk.com
Ever commercial, without taking its eye off the trends, Marc Cain has developed a loyal fanbase through its 102 stockists in the UK and RoI. For autumn expect to see a feather print monochrome dress sharing rail-space with military inspired multi-pocket tailoring, a ruffled pussy bow top, shaggy fur gilet, narrow leather trousers and an eye-catching multi-layered leopard print dress with contrast checked sleeves.
Prices £25 – 958
Contact 01704 823005 www.marc-cain.com
Now in its tenth year, Crea Concept has built a design personality around generous silhouettes, sculptured shapes and its modern interpretation of archive folk-inspired references. Crea Concept’s strength is contemporary knitwear which plays with proportion and symmetry with dramatic details such as oversized pockets and intricate necklines. A neutral palette ranging from black to grey includes highlights in plum, green and red. Trademark fabrics include Alpaca and rich lambswool.
Prices: £15 to £195
Contact: 020 7349 5222 www.creaconcept.com
Noli’s autumn 09 collection comprises lace wrap dresses with embroidered sleeves, fake fur short jackets and crinkled hand-painted dresses for a more structured look. The palette of colours ranges from neutrals to bright touches of ruby, jade and honeydew, with a new attention to textured and printed fabrics. Noli is five years old and counts 130 stockists.
Prices: from £10 to £80
Contact: 020 7580 1288