A strict palette, a striking silhouette and gamine aesthetic. Guess who? It can only be Raf Simons and his latest purist offering for Jil Sander, which is sharply structured and typically body-moulding. While it is certainly refreshing to see historical referencing go beyond the sixties and dabble with Edwardian silhouettes, with the raised waistline and bell-like jacket tails used here, the vintage mood is met with a sharp modernist one in a futuristic, seamless appeal.
Wearable knitwear includes tonal grey roll-necks, while sculpted long line outerwear in herringbone grey had the A-line peplum of a field coat. Typically experimental neck-lines included baseball collar high-buttoning 3sbs and extreme pointed wing collars on blousons and coats. Patchworks of fabric and colour were used on knits and outerwear. Perhaps most impressive of all though, was a high buttoning db coat which showed a four buttons on the abdomen and two under the neck for a new take on the simple manly coat.