The week’s other big shows and hot names…
Matthew Williamson’s trademark decadence took on metallic, neon and futuristic forms, while Paul Smith’s overcoats, db blazers and wide-leg trousers impressed. Aquascutum’s army was on a military trend march, with sharp tailoring and excellent outerwear. A stately home blaze fired Giles to present burn hole-decorated Victoriana gowns, while Nicole Farhi marked her 30th anniversary with a refined, wearable but embellished collection.
Simple shapes clashed with riotous patterns at Basso & Brooke, while another of the print generation, Holly Fulton, worked in turquoise and fuchsia with tropical motifs. House of Holland’s sporty collection didn’t feel dated, the closing fitted dresses suggesting a new maturity. Michael Van Der Ham’s trademark collaged dresses were also more refined. Meadham Kirchhoff presented a manic mash-up of crazy colours and club kid disco looks.
Catch some Raeburn
Ironically for a collection entitled Freeze, Christopher Raeburn’s show was held in the hottest LFW venue, the Portico Rooms. For autumn 12, Raeburn’s use of technical fabrics and construction meant his clothes were fit for female explorers who know their Carven from their karabiners.
Is it a show?
Is it a presentation? Is it a lookbook shoot? At Richard Nicoll it was all of the above, as the designer pioneered a new show format.
With freedom to roam, onlookers watched as models were styled, sauntered and stood in a refreshingly different show. Nicoll also unveiled a handbag that charges your phone on the move – a fashion week essential.
From good stock
John Rocha is a London stalwart but it was his daughter Simone’s name that was on everyone’s lips. She has clearly inherited the tactile nature of his work while developing her own modern elegance, as lace and sheer panels were worked into harder silhouettes.
Magic of McCartney
For Stella McCartney’s triumphant debut at LFW – an intimate dinner presentation attended by Rihanna and Kate Moss – the designer showed her collection with a magical performance evening. The event included British Fashion Council style ambassador Alexa Chung being sawn in half.