This was a week of firsts, and none was more hotly anticipated than Richard Nicoll’s debut menswear show.
The room was packed (Jonathan Saunders had to stand) and breath bated as Nicoll’s first exit strode out. We weren’t to be disappointed. Clean and restrained, block colours of bright white, sunshine yellow, turquoise and blues ranging from navy to baby, were only punctuated by the occasional jacquard pattern or subtle stripe.
Nicoll’s sportswear slant was seen throughout, whether as obvious as bomber jackets and baseball caps (and the tennis-inspired opening looks) or subtle as cotton piqué, but it was given a luxurious slant with cashmere knits and in particular fluid leather: cut into polos, shorts and jackets, the real winners were the gold and aqua overhead cagoules that played with a nostalgia and modernity. It was commercial, creative and desirable – a combo all designers strive for.
In short Sports influences remain a big trend but Nicoll’s proposal of leather might be a stretch too far for the wider market.