Pleasing pleats, a touch of honeycomb, a clash of collages and colour blocking all impressed.
Nicole Farhi had a very pleasing pleated moment for her swansong collection – the combination with her quarry-inspired neutral palette made for a fluid and feminine show. Pleating also featured at Marios Schwab, but his was a more tribal affair that included a honeycomb motif that not only adorned the eveningwear for which he is famous but also, shock horror, knits. Matthew Williamson used the grey backdrop of the London skyline to perfectly set off his electric, embellished colours, while Roksanda Ilincic’s luxurious and flowing collection was pure class, and a significant departure for the designer. JW Anderson’s intense application to his craft and fabric development refreshingly saw him produce his most well put together collection to date, while fellow Topshop venue exhibitor Michael van der Ham’s clashy-clashy collaged look was a liberating and riotous examination of colour, texture and, in his case, hand-painted, pattern. Meanwhile, Paul Smith was in a colour-blocking mood, a clean look that he applied across neat blazers and shirts before tripping over his signature stripes at the last. Another designer who has seen a thing or two in London, Vivienne Westwood’s Red Label show was as prim and pretty (for her) as her finale protest was anarchic (ie, very).
‘Collage’ was a word seen across a sleeveless T-shirt at Acne, a polite way of putting it: there were as many misses as hits in a collection that was nevertheless commercial. Louise Gray’s signature cartoonishness was still firmly front page news but more refined and grown-up with this newspaper-printed collection. While not quite down in the dumps, the House of Holland grungy meets happy-happy, joy-joy signature only perked up at the end, the start imbued with a more grown-up sensibility that was in stark contrast to Antonio Berardi, whose ‘sporty’ brand of sophistication bounded down the catwalk. Models joyfully skipped along at Temperley London but for a wholly different reason – who could resist being lifted by the easy holiday vibe? Fyodor Golan was feeling blue but only in colour as the duo’s mythical-tinged collection verged on a couturier’s attention to detail – ones to watch.