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London Fashion Week: Burberry Prorsum

There was no torrential finale to this spring 13 show, nor anything more elaborate than an army of betrenched soldiers as Christopher Bailey made his assault against disappointing sales figures posted only days before.

It is Bailey’s eye for form-flattering cut and quality of the fabric and finish that lets him get away with challenging materials at this historic British house – the intensely saturated ombre colours, the riffs on the trench, the Quality Street metallics, the plastic pieces and the dramatic capes were all exciting without becoming elaborate.

In short Burberry’s figures should rally as the excellent autumn 12 collection drops but spring 13 may be a slower burner.

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