The bunker-like space at Tate Modern was the perfect venue for Saunders’ show, the hardness and blockiness of the monolithic cavern reflected by the Scot’s precise collection. And ‘reflected’ is the right word, as disco-inspired oily metallics, spangly sequins and sheen-finished droplet repeats glistened across a collection that was sexier, stronger and bolder than his autumn and resort offerings. This was Saunders in new territory but he pulled it off by tempering the glitz with solid, flat colour. There were plenty of separates to please buyers and customers alike.
In short Saunders’ shiny disco ball of a collection will be widely mimicked as the designer evolves his house into a bona fide brand.