It may have lacked a standout moment, but this year’s LFW hit all the right creative and commercial notes.
Seemingly over in a blink (unlike New York), London Fashion Week was an unusually understated affair, its five days showing that our capital’s designers were in a consolidative rather than dramatic mood for spring 13. That’s not to say there wasn’t anything worth seeing on show, just that the week wanted for a crescendo to stick in the memory.
Brands were moved on, ideas developed. This was pretty much what the industry asked of London’s talent last time around so those bemoaning the dearth of anything truly exciting or new only have themselves to blame.
On the other side of the coin, those commentators who hysterically and indiscriminately showered some distinctly average collections with praise also need to shoulder some of the blame for not challenging the status quo of designers favouring zany theatrics over range-building and practicality.
But despite this sense of transition, there was enough to take from the week. The big trends at London were typically diverse as sportswear jogged alongside transparent fabrics, pleats, collaged textures and, unsurprisingly, engineered prints – a classic commercial meets creative set of themes that are sure to filter through to the rest of the market. Tellingly, and rather oddly, there was little in the way of outerwear as on the whole designers eschewed lightweight summer jackets and turned instead to bare shoulders and arms. How very optimistic of them considering the convergence of the season’s clothing requirements.
We’ll know better whether this is a flat season globally and whether the capital has hit the mark with its trends once Milan and Paris have concluded but here’s hoping both weeks bring us the highs that London lacked.