Some of the season’s chief trends were further reinforced in Milan.
- Images provided by Catwalking
What started in collections by Jonathan Saunders and Peter Pilotto in London continued in Milan, with abstract collages and colour-block panelling creating a fresh take on pattination, which promises to permeate to the high street. This trend works across all pieces including outerwear, dresses or matching separates, while contrasting fabric collages offer an edgier take. The season’s emerging colours are key, including winter pastels at Fendi and Missoni and punchy reds at the likes of Fausto Puglisi.
Autumn 14 is officially the season when furry finishes make a full return to womenswear. Shaggy shearling stood out in Milan in both real and fake options. Coloured styles were prominent, often in pastels or punchy brights. If all-over texture might be a little extreme for your customers, some designers focused on furry trims, linings and hoods as a nod to the trend.
Oversized proportions and masculine silhouettes were confirmed in Milan as the key outerwear trend for autumn 14.
But a new update spotted in the Italian fashion capital saw embellished coats lend a more feminine, typically Italian take.
Some came with glitzy details such as sequins, jewels and feathers for an eveningwear approach, while appliqué patterns at the likes of Dolce & Gabbana provided a whimsical twist.
Having already highlighted tailored jackets and smart blazers as a key autumn 14 item, designers in Milan presented them as full trouser suits. Most took a slightly androgynous, mannish approach, with simple single and double-breasted jackets in oversized or boxy shapes, alongside sharply cut slim versions, feminised with nipped waists. Trousers came in a range of cuts, from louche and slouchy, wide-legged and masculine to cigarette-style skinny.
With real or faux furs proving a must for next season, Milan picked up where Altuzarra in New York and Roksanda Ilincic in London kicked off, with bold patterned options that will appeal to a younger market and a more directional shopper. Statement creations came from the likes of Marni and Roberto Cavalli, while Versace offered floral patterned styles. Emporio Armani served up a more wearable take with stripe patterns in darker, tonal shades.
A folksy arts and crafts movement first spotted at Rodarte in New York and Temperley London at LFW carried through to Milan.
Handmade crochet, embellishment, embroidery and appliqué are used on trims and panels across pieces. An easily transferable trend likely to trickle down to the high street and promising widespread appeal with customers, it gives basic shapes and simple separates a new season lift.