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Moda Autumn 09

Moda’s women’s and men’s collections served up a commercial mix of new trends and updates of last autumn’s commercial winners in an attempt to maintain buyer spend

Moda, a Mecca of mainstream men’s and women’s fashion, was busy off the starting blocks on Sunday with buyers eager to evaluate autumn 09’s key looks.

On womenswear, the trend barometer swung towards a commercially relevant mix of looks including checks, global traveller prints, leopard prints, 1960s silhouettes, purple, grey, chunky knits, subtle sequined embellishments and down-filled outerwear.

Dresses remain the season’s biggest category in terms of sheer volume. From flattering wrap dresses and waisted styles to lace-panelled options and 1960s inspired structured looks, the dress was out in force at Birmingham’s NEC.

Exhibition stands were a kaleidoscope of prints and patterns. Busy ethnic and tribal tinged global traveller prints were the biggest look on dresses. Leopard prints were reserved largely for lightweight knits, particularly in crew-necked styles and twin-sets, while oversized plaids and Glen checks injected three-quarter length woollen coats with a youthful look.

While longer-length chunky cardigans were out in force once again, particularly in shades of grey and brown, this season saw a concerted return of outerwear. A long-time favourite in the Italian womenswear market, slim-fitting and sporty down-filled jackets were everywhere at Moda. From shorter shawl-collared jackets to long-length belted options, these puffy styles, have a blingy off-piste look that should work well in the face of another rough winter.  

Menswear brands for autumn 09 played it safe putting faith in a stronger presence of some familiar styles from the previous autumn. Like the womenswear collections, many brands had strong purple and berry tones in their palette, appearing most prominently on knits and shirting and used as accent colours on some suiting. A variety of blues, including petrol blue and silver blue added more subtle variations to the more mainstream navys, greys and blacks. 

As well as classic fits and colours on suiting, brands on the expanded Moda Platform area showcased more contemporary labels. Slimmer tailoring styles, exemplified by  shorter jackets with skinny lapels, were present alongside some tailoring styles in  shiny and semi-sheen fabrics.

Most brands worked checks into their collection, including contrast colour checks, oversized plaids and neater, smaller check patterns. Casual shirting ranged from pared down clean styles with mini details including epaulettes to heavier fabrics with popper style buttons. Stripes were the dominant pattern on formal shirts

Knitwear included lightweight merinos as well as chunky cable knit cardigans with a smattering of Nordic patterns.

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