Plus other highlights from day seven of New York’s spring 15 catwalk shows, including Marc by Marc Jacobs, Oscar de la Renta, Rodarte and Diesel Black Gold.
It was a tale of two halves at Vera Wang as masculine tailoring met with the designer’s signature feminine detailing. In the collection, which Wang described as “boyish boudoir, baby bohemian”, elements from her famed bridal collections came into play across traditional tailored pieces. Crisp trousers in dark shades of black and navy were paired with waistcoats, blazers and neat peplum tops, embellished with girlish tulle. Later, as dresses emerged, shorter styles came embellished with coloured jewels on sheer fabric, layered over brocade, while on maxi dresses Wang let loose with flowing proportions and delicate floral prints.
Oscar de la Renta’s feminine range featured oversized florals, blown-up gingham (the trend that keeps on giving this season) and pastel colours throughout easy-to-wear pieces including shorts, lightweight summer coats, cropped jackets and pencil skirts. Strapless and off-the-shoulder maxi dresses made occasionwear the highlight, with full-blown floral embellishments, full skirts and bold shades of coral, lime green and yellow, which will undoubtedly feature heavily on every red carpet in early 2015.
Monochrome and khaki green were the key colours for Rodarte, with textural details the highlight. Floaty dresses with asymmetric hems featured heavy embellishments and even sporty stripes, while separates including blouses with oversized ruffles and super-slim fit trousers also stood out.
Andreas Melbostad’s biker chic explored rock ‘n’ roll influences at Diesel Black Gold, with studs, raw denim and bra tops the focus. Girlish pieces, including Peter Pan-collar minidresses and spaghetti-strap babydoll dresses featuring cute star prints gave a more summery vibe to the range that should give the collection a broad appeal to younger consumers.
Exaggerated proportions were the order of the day at Marc by Marc Jacobs, with slouchy trousers, oversized slogan shirts and blown-up spring parkas. Elsewhere, some more commercial pieces were present in the form of boxy cropped shirts. A particular highlight was dresses, which combined details from throughout the collection, including polka dots, pleating and oversized T-shirt sleeves, and will no doubt top buyers’ wish lists.