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After the fuzz comes the buzz – day two at Pitti Uomo

There was a slightly slower start to day two at Florence menswear trade show Pitti Uomo, perhaps thanks to the Tuesday evening crowds at the city’s famous Gilli bar. But once the Aperol fuzz cleared, the buyers returned in force, giving the show its characteristic buzz.

Many brands were ready for a busier show on the second day, as Pitti continued in full swing with a series of events, including the launch of British menswear designer Christopher Raeburn’s collaboration with Save the Duck, and the JW Anderson catwalk show, which took top billing for the evening, bringing with it a host of international attention.

There was no let-up in the temperature as the mercury nudging 35 degrees, but the upbeat vibe of the show persisted. Visitors took advantage of the sunshine, including Raeburn himself, who was spotted exploring Pitti ice cream in hand. As the day wore on, however, some of the Pitti peacocks showed signs of wilting in the heat.

Back at the Fortezza da Basso, the Urban Panorama area was particularly busy. One brand described the hall as “chock-a-block”, as buyers from South Africa, France, Greece, Uruguay and the US joined the crowds. UK retailers were also spotted, including buyers from Office, Schuh and Offspring, as well as several independents.

Camouflage emerged as a trend, as seen at K-Way and Moose Knuckles. The latter has expanded its range to focus more on spring pieces, as has British heritage outerwear brand Gloverall.

Mood of the show 

Tim Elbourne Sales director, Hamilton & Hare

Day one was quiet but today looks like it will be good – we’ve seen people on the stand already. We used to rely on people passing, but now we know people come here to see us. We’ve seen some of our German accounts so far, as well as a German high-end department store and some Japanese as well, and a few people pitching new business.

It was quieter yesterday than I would have liked, but I like the location here. We’re set with a lot of contemporary brands and people know where to find us. We don’t do any other shows apart from Pitti. We used to do MAN in Paris, but found that for us it was too focused on modern wear.

 

Steph Hoff Creative director, Moose Knuckles

We’ve had a crazy response to the spring 18 collection. The bulk of our business is fall, but people have responded really well to the new collection. We’ve mostly seen our German accounts here today, and we’re expanding rapidly in the German market. Italy continues to be strong for us as well.

 

Martin Gill Head of wholesale, Oliver Spencer

Yesterday the show was good from the start, and we expect Tuesday and Wednesday to be hectic, with Friday a bit slower. We’ve had buyers from Japan, the US, Canada – a nice spread of people. We’ve been here back to back for six shows now.

Usually we only bring a small amount of stock, as a flavour of the brand, but now we bring a much bigger range so we can write orders. Pitti used to be more of a showroom space, but we do write orders here.

 

Giulio Breschi, Sales, Fred Perry

Yesterday was quiet, and the show is not busy yet today. We are finding that the show is quieter season to season, but we’re hoping for it to be busier today. So far we’ve seen buyers from Germany, France and Italy.

 

Teresa Bedoes Account manager, Gloverall

There have been a lot of people coming on to the stand today. Being in the contemporary hall allows us to attract lots of different kinds of customers. There are a lot of contemporary buyers here, which is what we’re looking for.

 

Bola Marquis Founder and creative director, Okun

It’s our fourth year here – I have never seen Pitti so rammed before. The Touch hall, which has moved this year, seems bigger this time round. While location and footfall has been excellent for us, there has been more footfall going around the outside aisles and less going through the middle ones, which is a bit annoying.

We are seeing the same sorts of people as usual, but I haven’t seen the big-name buyers expected so far. Then again, it’s only the second day.

 

Giulia Acchiardi Co-founder, Harris Wharf London

The mood has been great today. We’re quite strategically placed, close to one of the entrances, so we are seeing more people in our new location at Touch than in previous years. We have seen many visitors from Germany, the US, Benelux and Mexico, and a few British buyers here and there.

It’s quite similar to how it has been in previous years – the first and second days are always the best for us, while the third day is more quiet.

 

Arnez Dongo-Smith Brand development, Hudson Jeans

We usually see less people come in on the first day – today will be better. We’ve seen a lot of buyers from Japan, the US and the UK, but the majority are from Italy, which has been great. We are looking to expand in the US.

 

Severine Lahyani Founder, LY Adams

It’s our second time here, and it’s been a good edition. For us, there has been a lot of interest from buyers based in Japan, Korea and Denmark, and we’ve seen a few from the UK. It’s been busy, and I’m sure it’ll get even busier later in the day.

 

Ian Segal Co-founder, Nine Lives

It’s our first time at Pitti. We decided to come here because we’re young, and because we could! It’s been busy. We’re looking to expand further, and, while we mostly sell in the US, Canada and UK, we have seen a lot of people from European countries such as Austria, France and Germany.

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