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Alexander McQueen label to lose angst

The first Alexander McQueen collection to be produced without his input will be softer and less angst-ridden than previous collections, according to the premium label’s new creative director Sarah Burton.

Burton, who was appointed creative director of Alexander McQueen in May following the eponymous designer’s suicide, told Womenswear Daily that the label would preserve the McQueen “essence” and “darkness” but would have a more feminine feel.

“There will always be this McQueen spirit and essence. But, of course, I’m a woman so maybe more from a woman’s point of view…I don’t think it has to have as much angst in it. I think it will become softer,” she said.

“There’s always got to be some darkness, because otherwise you don’t appreciate what’s light. I’ve had a training in darkness, but I don’t feel that it’s necessarily a personal thing to me. I’m a bit lighter.”

Alexander McQueen will show its spring 11 collection on October 5 at Paris Fashion Week.

Burton, 35, who spent her whole career working with McQueen, added that the label will move away from the show-stopping special effects - such as robots, holograms, skating rinks and rings of fire - that characterised McQueen’s shows.

That was very much Lee’s territory — the spectacular show. In that way, I can’t try and pretend to be Lee,” she said.

Burton also plans to combat what she claims are misplaced assumptions that McQueen designs are not wearable. “What saddens me in a way is that Lee had these incredible shows, but always under that there were amazing pieces you could wear, but somehow nobody every believed it was wearable.

“There’s this myth that it’s an unwearable house, but that’s not true,” she said.

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