Buyers remain unconvinced about the relevance of the Berlin trade shows, on June 28-30, and instead are opting for the more contemporary offerings of Pitti Uomo in Florence, Jacket Required in London and the Copenhagen shows.
Bread & Butter
There is a growing consensus among buyers that the Berlin shows (Panorama, Premium, Seek and Bright) have fallen flat following the demise of Bread & Butter, which is being relaunched in September as a consumer-facing ”festival of fashion” by new owner etailer Zalando.
“The Berlin shows have lost importance for us. We haven’t been for a year and a half, and we have no immediate plans to go either,” said Sach Kukadia, co-founder of flash Sales site SecretSales.
“The general feedback is that Berlin isn’t attracting the right people. If the brands are there, that’s the only thing we look for. We would go if the presence we expected was there. As a direct result of the decline of the Berlin, the UK shows have become really important. It’s fresh, there’s more energy and all the brands are there. We’re not allocating the same budget to travelling abroad because we don’t need to.”
He added: “Germany can also be difficult. The shows are located all over the city and it’s not easy to get around.”
Read Drapers’ coverage of Pitti Uomo’s spring 17 edition
Chris O’Dea, owner of premium menswear independent OD’s Clothing in St Helens, echoed his concerns: “The problem with Berlin is that it’s huge and you don’t know where anybody is. But in Italy at Pitti Uomo, everyone ends up at the same bar and the networking is invaluable. In the evenings, everyone gets together to talk about what’s working and what’s not working.”
Who’s Next and Tranoi, both in Paris, and the Copenhagen shows are top of the list for Deryane Tadd, owner of the womenswear independent The Dressing Room in St Albans.
“These shows are more relevant to me than Berlin because they have brand line-ups that are better for me,” she added.
However, Debra McCann, owner of womenswear boutique The Mercantile in London’s Spitalfields, said she still regularly attends the Berlin shows and has been impressed by the quality on offer.
“Berlin gives me a good overview in quite a relaxed manner. I don’t have to buy there, I can browse and have a look at colour palettes and themes. The shows don’t have every brand but there is a good cross section. It gives me an initial idea of what to buy in a beautifully curated environment.”
Stay tuned to Drapersonline for full coverage of the Berlin shows