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Black Magic

From punk-inspired black leather and rivets to the new vogue for hats in all their permutations, Drapers rounds up the key accessory looks of the season


The newest, most striking accessories trend took its inspiration from the juxtaposition of hard-edged biker and rebellious punk looks with the ladylike refinement of elegant stilettos, knee-length boots and opera gloves. Realised in sleek black leather and dotted with rivets and studs, shoes, belts and gloves had an aggressive, slightly fetishistic appeal. The use of ultra-long leather gloves on catwalks as diverse as Carolina Herrera, Jasper Conran, Marc Jacobs and Yves Saint Laurent compounded the dark and edgy mood.


After its success in recent seasons, the animal print story looks set to run and run. Snakeskin proved popular on clutches and totes at Temperley London and Bottega Veneta, while zebra and monochrome skins looked fresh at Nathan Jenden and Emporio Armani. But leopard print was still king of the jungle at Dolce & Gabbana and Asprey.


Mirroring the ready-to-wear penchant for high-shine fabrics, accessories got in on the act for autumn 07. From Versace's T-bar sandals to flat brogues at Paul Smith and Betty Jackson's sassy ankle boots, footwear marched to a distinctly glossy beat. Although the trend has been on the radar for several seasons, this time around it loses its 1960s associations for a more contemporary, masculine feel.


The flat-bottomed charm of the Gladstone doctor's bag has not been seen in fashion since the battered travelling cases of the 1970s. But the Gladstone's versatility and roomy proportions are suited to the whim for back-breaking bags. The structured silhouette, short handles and overwhelming use of black leather are also key features for the new season.


Spring's trend for colossal sunglasses and bags has carried over into statement jewellery for autumn. Huge gong-like pendants came in beaten bronze at Matthew Williamson and pewter at Gharani Strok, while Manish Arora's cut-out plastic cuff and Christopher Kane's giant Swarovski crystal-studded leather bracelet had a cartoonish glamour.


Despite a lack of unanimous styling, headwear made a forceful comeback for autumn 07 with everything from leather field hats at Hermes to Cossack-style fur hats at Michael Kors. Marc Jacobs and Proenza Schouler both doffed their caps to the 1920s with wide-brimmed cloches, while Ralph Lauren reinvented the beanie with a preppy ribbed style.


The primly laced high-heeled brogues that have been nudging onto the footwear landscape since spring 06 hit the big time for autumn. Vertiginously high and often with thick platform soles, this season's boots lurched from ankle high to mid-calf lengths - the only common denominator was the multiple laces, giving an air of bordello chic.

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