London Fashion Week got off to a slow start on Friday due to the dateline overlap with New York, so it was up to a packed Saturday – a massive 13 shows – to get the glamour going.
All the snow seemed to have gone to Nathan Jenden’s head as he showed off a wintery collection of paper cut snowflake dresses, concertinaed ice white bubble skirts and barely there chiffons dotted with mini appliqué blooms. The snow white pieces were contrasted with plenty of black on woven leathers and pleated wool jackets, dresses looped from top to bottom with oversized tassels and pleated waistcoats with fishnet arms.
Basso and Brooke moved on from last season’s oriental influences to a baroque theme for autumn 09, nicely complemented by tinkly piano versions of Britney Spears’ Toxic and Guns and Roses iconic Sweet Child of Mine. The most beautiful of the print kings’ offerings were intricate floral blooms in rainbow shades which were paired with antique baroque swirls and snaking wave splashes on button down dresses in airy fabrics, while the pair’s witty approach to their work was apparent when belts and bags splashed with Louis XIV’s face were paraded down the catwalk.
Vivienne Westwood loves to add extra spice to her shows, and if R’n’B maestro Kanye West sitting on the front row wasn’t enough, this season the flame-haired fashion grande dame opted to cast Jo Wood, ex-wife of Rolling Stone Ronnie, as a sexy principal in her St Trinian’s inspired collection, sending her down the catwalk in a trailing red and blue headmistress’ coat. Striped Henley blazers started the show, and the school girl fabric appeared on traditional policeman helmets, bowler hats and draped dresses. There was plenty of Westwood’s favourite tartan, in aubergine and moss green colourways as well as the traditional red, but the rebellious 60-something clearly had balance sheets in the back of her mind as she presented super sellable pieces such as boxy cable knits and a pale grey figure hugging office dress.