Exhibitors and buyers were in a sunny mood at the spring 15 edition of premium London womenswear show Scoop this week.
Attendees were positive about the premium womenswear show’s brand mix of 280 exhibitors, while brand owners noted the high standard of buyers.
Fiona Huntingford, consultant for Danish womenswear brand Sand, said: “Scoop is something else compared to the other shows in terms of the quality of its buyers and its overall premium look and feel.”
Catherine Ayers, account buyer for Hoopers in Torquay, praised Scoop founder Karen Radley: “She has done really well to establish the show’s reputation in just four years. I wouldn’t miss it now.”
Despite some multiples reporting a healthier summer, brands and independents said they were still feeling the pressure.
Buyers said they were on the lookout for brands which were not stocked by large department stores or major websites. Jane McCoy, owner of Salcombe womenswear boutique Bibi & Mac, told Drapers she was searching for exclusivity to avoid being forced to discount. “We won’t go into Sale until September. We have to stop being pressurised by the high street.”
Some brands are also adapting their strategy. Goat managing director Kalpa Shah said: “We’re not going into high summer product anymore. It’s just not worth it. By the time high summer is on shelves, the Sales have started.”
“There is now no such thing as a high summer in the UK,” said Aimee Brakes, the UK sales manager for Danish young fashion brand Minimum. “No matter how good the collection is, people are very wary of ordering these products.”
Drapers heard the usual minor grumbles about the split venues of the Saatchi Gallery, which had about 180 exhibitors, and the nearby Phillips Gallery, with about 100 stands, but, as Radley explained, finding room to grow is a problem. “For this edition I had a waiting list of over 100 brands. I can only cherry pick brands,” she said.
Scoop was held on July 13-15. Radley said attendee numbers were up on the July 2013 edition, but declined to give exact figures.