London Fashion Week drew to a close on Tuesday with buyers delighted by the commercial creativity and saleability of the spring 15 collections.
At shows taking place in and around Somerset House from September 12-16, buyers singled out designers who balanced creativity and wearability.
The focus in Christopher Bailey’s Burberry Prorsum show was safe-but-sellable everyday indigo denim jackets and simple chiffon dresses, finished off by flat sandals and comfortable trainers, while the likes of JW Anderson and Christopher Kane eschewed their usual directional looks in favour of pieces with a broader ‘hanger appeal’.
“Designers appeared to strike the perfect balance between creativity and commerciality, with brands such as Mary Katrantzou embracing their signature styles while allowing for saleable pieces,” said Claire Miles, head of London store The Shop at Bluebird, who picked Barbara Casasola, JW Anderson, Jonathan Saunders and Osman as her standout collections.
Browns buying director Laura Larbalestier, who highlighted Peter Pilotto, JW Anderson and Erdem as her top shows of the week, said there was “definitely a lot of optimism” at LFW. She added: “I think there’s lots of money to be made from what’s gone down the catwalks.”
Justin O’Shea, buying director for etailer Mytheresa.com, added: “There was such a positive mood during the past few days; smiles and excited faces, which isn’t always the case. From a business perspective I can’t speak for other retailers, but I know the British brands I’m carrying are all working incredibly well. So after seeing the spring 15 shows, I can confidently say things should continue in the same way.” O’Shea picked Kane and Erdem as his highlights.
“The mood of the shows has been fairly restrained and one gets the feeling that designers are thinking about the commerciality of their collections rather than making a statement,” agreed George Graham, chief executive and co-founder of London designer independent Wolf & Badger. He picked Bora Aksu as his favourite show.
Justine Mills, chief executive of designer retailer Cricket in Liverpool, said: “It seems like London has gone from being a rebellious teenager to a more slick grown-up, and LFW really reflected this. It was a real stellar line-up and I think the fact that fashion’s biggest names support the London shows is testament to the growing importance of LFW.”
Look out for a full round-up of LFW in next week’s issue of Drapers