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Exclusive - London Collections: Men preview: Agi & Sam

In the run up to autumn 13’s London Collections: Men, Drapers’ junior fashion editor Graeme Moran chats with Agape Mdumulla, one half of design duo Agi & Sam, for an exclusive insight into their latest collection and future plans for the brand.

For spring 13 you were inspired by detective shows from the 1980s, so what are the inspirations for your autumn 13 collection?

This season our main protagonist is Lord Bath. Looking at him and his eccentricity was the initial starting point. Looking at his aristocratic lifestyle in this big manor, with all his wifelets and all the things he gets up to.

What else can you tell us about the collection?

We’ve tried to mature a little bit instead of using a million mental colours and prints. Although we’ve probably done the most prints we’ve ever done but it’s all that little bit more subtle, and hopefully that little bit more wearable. We’re also introducing a few more plain pieces. It’s a little more varied this season. In past seasons we did one trouser shape, one shirt, a double breasted and a single breasted jacket and an outerwear piece but we’ve tried to do more and explore new areas of tailoring. We’re still finding our feet so we keep developing it.

Last season you moved out of just clothes and introduced socks. Are we going to get anymore accessories this season?


Since your first collection for autumn 11, prints have always been your trademark. Will you ever get tired of them?

Both Sam and I often think we do too many prints but each season we just keep doing more. I think it’s just innate for us. Instead of trying to limit it this season we just thought lets go with it and follow our gut. For the time being this is how our brains work so it’s hard to go against that.

Is there anything you can tell us about the show itself? Can we expect Lord Bath as your finale walk?

No, we did try but I don’t think it is going to happen! We don’t want to get carried away putting on too much of a jokey event. Last season we had fun with the models all wearing fake mustaches, but you’ll just have to wait and see.

This summer you launched a capsule womenswear shirt collection exclusively with Harvey Nichols. What’s next with that?

For now menswear is our focus, although women’s was fun and a challenge. It’s important to grow women’s slowly and improve upon it each season. It’s important that when the time comes to launch a full womenswear mainline it will be something that we are totally comfortable doing. Each season we will introduce one or two new styles and in a year or twos time we can start thinking about developing the full collection, which we’ve already started talking about.

So what is next?

We want to maybe start looking at collaborations and consultancies and build the brand in the right way, working with other companies and expanding that way.

And are there any collaborations in mind?

Well I can’t really say, but all will be revealed in 2013!

Who else are you looking forward to seeing at London Collections: Men?

Craig Green is really good and I’m really looking forward to seeing that. He’s just so original and it’s something so different. I’m always interested to see what Shaun Samson will do next too.

Agi & Sam will show at London Collections: Men as part of the MAN show, Monday January 7, 3pm.

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