The penultimate day of LFW saw some of the city’s big guns show alongside its rising stars, here are junior fashion editor Graeme Moran’s best bits.
Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos opened day four at just after 9am, with a few bleary eye front rowers clutching coffees following Jonathan Saunder’s after party the previous night. The show itself was signature Pilotto but with the introduction of some stunning embroidery and embellishment adding new pizazz to their prints, alongside some great pumped up volumes on strong-shouldered coats.
Things took a much darker and moodier turn at Michael van der Ham, were the Dutch designer refined his look with a more grown up, and ultimately more wearable collection. It was a similar scene at Louise Gray, although minus the dark and moody, of course. She too tweaked her aesthetic, clashing prints and fabrics in her usual style but produced clothes that, more than ever, belong in stores and on the street rather than just the catwalk. Maybe without the loo roll brooch though!
One of the most anticipated shows of the week came at midday, as Christopher Kane revealed his latest collection, now bolstered by the backing of French luxury giants PPR. There was chunky fur trimming coats and dresses in Kane camo, swishy silky trousers, feathers as delicate trims or arranged in blooming flowers and even embroidered MRI brain scans. It was a jam packed show, over 60 looks into total, which swerved from theme to theme, but still somehow felt concise and buzzing with that special Kane something.
And from London’s leading lights to its youngest rising stars at Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East initiative, wtih grungy knits, cord and velvet of Claire Barrow, bubble gum candy floss of Ryan Lo and retro fun of Ashley Williams – give them time.
London’s other highly anticipated Christopher also showed on day four. As is his skill, Bailey took Burberry Prorsum classics and jazzed them up, this season reimagining the Burberry trench coat in kinky rippling rubber, with semi sheer pencil skirts revealing naughty heart-print knickers and animal prints on outerwear.
The day finished at J.W. Anderson, with a stellar front row and winning collection. Carine Roitfeld, Suzy Menkes, Alex Shulman and Arcadia’s Phillip Green jostled for front row views of Anderson’s strangest but strongest collection to date. It was strictly sleek, clinically clean and beautifully minimal, mixing textures and corrupting typical silhouettes. In its conceptuality it might be missing the commerciality of his recent Topshop collaborations, but who cares – we loved it.